Team Associated TC4
Tech Rookie
Ft tc4 gearing options
Hi guys! First time posting here. Hope you can help. Maybe 3 or 4 years ago my brother gave me a brand new factory team tc4. I put it together and he installed all the electronics. We bashed parking lots for awhile then he moved away. In my pursuit for speed I purchased the Novak GTB bundled with a 3.5r velociti motor. Crazy speed when I could control it but never could figure it out. I had a pretty bad crash and shelved it. Now after shelving it for a couple of years I wanna master my fttc4.
In the past I never was able to get the motor hot. Always being able to touch it after a run. I was using the spur that came with the kit and a 19t pinion.
After I repair all the damage from years ago I will be starting my gearing quest with a 75t spur and 19t pinion. I would greatly appreciate some input on gearing. Like, what is the internal ratio for a fttc4. I read somewhere to divide the spur by the pinion then multiply by the internal ratio?. Is that corect?
Please help I'm trying to surprise my brother when he comes home this summer.
In the past I never was able to get the motor hot. Always being able to touch it after a run. I was using the spur that came with the kit and a 19t pinion.
After I repair all the damage from years ago I will be starting my gearing quest with a 75t spur and 19t pinion. I would greatly appreciate some input on gearing. Like, what is the internal ratio for a fttc4. I read somewhere to divide the spur by the pinion then multiply by the internal ratio?. Is that corect?
Please help I'm trying to surprise my brother when he comes home this summer.
Tech Master
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tween a Rock & a Hard Place in Pa.
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A3.5 is wayyyyyy to muchIMHO
Internal = 2.5/1
Internal = 2.5/1
Tech Rookie
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Which kit? Club Racer
Currently I'm racing a Club Racer kit in VTA and here are my upgrades
1. Replaced front spool with lightened steel ball diff. (I prefer diff)
2. Replaced front composite bones with blue aluminum bones. (more durable than composite in the front)
3...
I'm still using the plastic body shocks. I've changed springs/oil in the shocks and added a rear sway bar to suit my setup/driving.
Currently I'm racing a Club Racer kit in VTA and here are my upgrades
1. Replaced front spool with lightened steel ball diff. (I prefer diff)
2. Replaced front composite bones with blue aluminum bones. (more durable than composite in the front)
3...
I'm still using the plastic body shocks. I've changed springs/oil in the shocks and added a rear sway bar to suit my setup/driving.
Well I got my Novak gtb 3.5t at 8.409FDR (74t spur/22t pinion), and it also does not get crazy hot..... The bottom end is crazy, with nice top end....I can't complain...
As for setup, lowest roll center(no shims under arm mounts), is what I prefer...
As for setup, lowest roll center(no shims under arm mounts), is what I prefer...
Tech Rookie
I hate to ask but how do I adjust the roll center? And I installed the nitro tc3 front one way but haven't yet tested it I'm hoping mt gearing at 7.5 will give me punch and top end. Hoping the steering will be helped with the one way too? But may be if I played with my roll center I can further dial it in. Again I hate to ask but I'm new at this.
This picture helped me understand roll center a little better. You can raise and lower suspension mounting blocks or change the angle & height of the upper suspension links. Raising the upper inner links has a similar effect to lowering the suspension mounts for a lower roll center. The more you lower it, the more the car transfers weight or "rolls" from side to side. This is good for more grip but slows your car's response to steering input. Like anything else, what you adjust in one place will have an effect someplace else that you may not have expected, so keep the adjustments small when you tinker.
Shooktown, I think 8.4FDR delivers enough top speed and acceleration to compete. 7.5fdr is way too high for a 3.5t... The key here will be the batteries you run, and how you charge them...
As far as setup, you can checkout the Rc Crew Chief Software tc4 model to have a better understanding of setup features in your car...
As far as setup, you can checkout the Rc Crew Chief Software tc4 model to have a better understanding of setup features in your car...
Tech Rookie
Shooktown, I think 8.4FDR delivers enough top speed and acceleration to compete. 7.5fdr is way too high for a 3.5t... The key here will be the batteries you run, and how you charge them...
As far as setup, you can checkout the Rc Crew Chief Software tc4 model to have a better understanding of setup features in your car...
As far as setup, you can checkout the Rc Crew Chief Software tc4 model to have a better understanding of setup features in your car...
You seem to be helpful I have another question. My ft tc4 seems to be too light. Is there a desired total weight I should shoot for. Looking for more traction. Western NY has very little options for Rc on road stuff. I can't even find decent foams anymore.
I'm also running a 7.4v 2s lipo at 25c. I appreciate your response.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Hello every one I'm new to the forum and just getting back to on road
New to the electric thing but the local track is electric only so I just purchased a tc4 club kit and was planning on running a gt spec class
Built it with an lrp 17.5 and a tekin rs esc
This is a rubber tire class and a 2 cell Lipo limit
However I'm having gearing issues the guy at my lhs suggested I use a Robinson racing 64 pitch gearset with 56 t pinion and I think its like a 72 t spur for a rollout around 4.06
This can't be right since the gearset won't even fit in the car
And even with some grinding would leave room to properly set gearmesh
Any help would be appreciated I was hoping to race this Sunday but can't get the car ready
New to the electric thing but the local track is electric only so I just purchased a tc4 club kit and was planning on running a gt spec class
Built it with an lrp 17.5 and a tekin rs esc
This is a rubber tire class and a 2 cell Lipo limit
However I'm having gearing issues the guy at my lhs suggested I use a Robinson racing 64 pitch gearset with 56 t pinion and I think its like a 72 t spur for a rollout around 4.06
This can't be right since the gearset won't even fit in the car
And even with some grinding would leave room to properly set gearmesh
Any help would be appreciated I was hoping to race this Sunday but can't get the car ready
The Tc4 is a relatively heavy car, and your battery pack is too light and too weak to run a 3.5t motor in a competitive environment... I run a Thunderpower 5300mah 65C pack that weighs 309 grams, and my competitors are already using those 7200mah 80C packs that are heavier than mine.... You can't use cheap lipos with a 3.5t !!! It will be hard to make your tc4 reach 1380grams with a 309+ gram battery pack... I run mine at 1507grams, but could lose weight by running a low profile servo and light electronics...
I run 48p gears only : 60t spur and 40t pinion (3.75FDR with 17.5t blinky) .....
The way to charge these new 65+c packs also makes a difference : high(20+) amps / 13 minutes/ heat cycled... The bottom end of a 3.5t will benefit greatly...
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
What's the easiest what to change the spur on the TC4?
Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
There is really one way: unscrew a bunch of screws(diff case,spur gear holder, etc....)... That's why I don't run weak spur gears(64pitch)....