300LikesTeam Associated TC4
07-27-2013, 06:59 PM
For a tc4 upgrade, that is very light considering that 310+ gram pack. That would mean the Car weighs in at around 1060 grams without the pack and with heavy electronics and body.... With light electronics and body, it can get down to 1020grams... The lightest I got my Fttc4 to weigh with novak electronics and standard servo and no battery is 1212grams. That's 152grams more than the DC4 LE with heavy stuff, and possibly 192grams more if the dc4 has light electronics... I run my Ft tc4 with a 208gram pack to keep the weight down a bit, but if you put my pack in your dc4 le you'll weigh in at 1268grams..... That's light for a tc4 buddy...
07-27-2013, 07:01 PM
07-27-2013, 07:10 PM
Sorry guys, but I just realized that the Reedy 7000mah pack weighs 318grams.... So the dc4 le is even lighter than I thought: 1052grams instead of 1060grams (desert's ride)... It's a winner in my book, but I would not run packs that are way over 320grams though.... Positively anorexic for sure...lol...
07-27-2013, 07:12 PM
One more piece of good news: I got out my four scales and weighed each corner and the car is only off a few grams in side-to-side weight.
07-27-2013, 07:15 PM
Nice....
07-27-2013, 07:26 PM
My tub tc4 17.5t weighs in at 1264grams with no battery pack, or 1472grams with my tp3300 packs... It runs pretty good eventhough it's much heavier on the motor side, but I can only imagine how much faster it can be if it were balanced side to side and 100grams lighter. The dc4 le delivers exactly that.....
07-27-2013, 11:10 PM
My tub tc4 17.5t weighs in at 1264grams with no battery pack, or 1472grams with my tp3300 packs... It runs pretty good eventhough it's much heavier on the motor side, but I can only imagine how much faster it can be if it were balanced side to side and 100grams lighter. The dc4 le delivers exactly that.....
http://www.rctech.net/forum/team-com...omponents.html
There are still kits available on our website -
http://www.diggitydesigns.com/produc...signs_DC4.html
I have been messing around with shocks and found a real nice setup, I am using the hard anodized threaded shock bodies (ASC3990) along with the Factory Team VCS2 shock upgrade kit (ASC31123) and Factory Team (TC5) .26 shock shafts (ASC31251).
Thanks!
07-28-2013, 02:44 PM
Nice to hear Damon.... I was starting to feel lonely in the 17.5t class with my tub Tc4, but now I am certain the dc4 guys will keep me company... I must say that I've become attached to the tub chassis, and will not part with it yet , but do admire this dc4 le kit for its simplicity , its lightness, and the fact that it gives back hope to those who felt stuck with a tub tc4.... Kudos to the diggity Team....
07-28-2013, 03:17 PM
These have been the changes I've made to my tub chassis over the years. Imagine some of these changes in the dc4 le ! The no shims under the arm mounts is the most important one....
Off the top of my head, there is a list of major improvements possible in the tc4 , from front to rear:
#1 : Parma bumper + ntc3 reinforcements(overkill)
#2 : front hinge pin blocks#31064 and #31065(no shims)
#3 : run Teflon Bearings on axles #6906
#4 : front LCD drives #losa3344
#5 : dremel servo saver bolt for clearance
#6 : dremel steering turnbuckle for clearance
#7 : run black swaybar up front and back
#8 : use RPM ballcups all over
#9 : use lightweight electronics and lipos
#10 : use trf shocks or AE shocks with yokomo bladders
#11 : take the foam out of the driveshaft input cups
#12 : make sure track width is 190mm(use #6 washers)
#13 : shave axle stubs sticking out
#14 : use IRS aluminum spool & diff outdrives
#15 : dremel battery compartment stubs flat
#16 : dremel chassis under pinion gear
#17 : cut battery foam spacer so it won't rub the driveshaft
#18 : use rear hinge pin blocks#31066 & #31068(no shims)
#19 : make wheelbase close to the shortest possible
#20 : make droop only 1mm to 2mm over rideheight F&R
#21 : use blue front springs and silver tear
#22 : wax/armor all your ride/wheels/body
#23 : Always run 1° to 1.5° rear camber
#24 : make sure you charge up to 8.5volts
#25 : use only AE clamped wheel hexes
That's all I can recall for now....
#1 : Parma bumper + ntc3 reinforcements(overkill)
#2 : front hinge pin blocks#31064 and #31065(no shims)
#3 : run Teflon Bearings on axles #6906
#4 : front LCD drives #losa3344
#5 : dremel servo saver bolt for clearance
#6 : dremel steering turnbuckle for clearance
#7 : run black swaybar up front and back
#8 : use RPM ballcups all over
#9 : use lightweight electronics and lipos
#10 : use trf shocks or AE shocks with yokomo bladders
#11 : take the foam out of the driveshaft input cups
#12 : make sure track width is 190mm(use #6 washers)
#13 : shave axle stubs sticking out
#14 : use IRS aluminum spool & diff outdrives
#15 : dremel battery compartment stubs flat
#16 : dremel chassis under pinion gear
#17 : cut battery foam spacer so it won't rub the driveshaft
#18 : use rear hinge pin blocks#31066 & #31068(no shims)
#19 : make wheelbase close to the shortest possible
#20 : make droop only 1mm to 2mm over rideheight F&R
#21 : use blue front springs and silver tear
#22 : wax/armor all your ride/wheels/body
#23 : Always run 1° to 1.5° rear camber
#24 : make sure you charge up to 8.5volts
#25 : use only AE clamped wheel hexes
That's all I can recall for now....
07-28-2013, 06:36 PM
I took the DC4 LE for a few laps today with a wild guess suspension setup and mystery oil in the shocks, it was quite fast. Two diffs held good corner speed and after messing around with the droop I would say it was as fast as I would have expected of my TC6. Car was very tight and consistent, and the noise it made was interesting and different from any modern car. My only problem was the nose drifted over the back section bumps, but the steering is a bit loose so thats just some work to be done.
overall very pleased, it looks like it may make a good race car even at the high level.
overall very pleased, it looks like it may make a good race car even at the high level.
07-28-2013, 07:10 PM
My tub tc4 use to drift too until I removed all the shims under all the arm mounts, and put yokomo(ys-8d) bladders in my shocks.... Now all I hear is churping rubber around the turns , just like the top touring cars...
07-28-2013, 07:21 PM
It will be going much faster very soon desert.... Thanks for letting us know what it does over bumps and turns... My biggest tub tc4 problem was to get the Car to roll, ie the roll Center was originally too high, but once I lowered it, I was passing Xrays etc... Now with the dc4 le that is even lighter than the tub, you will need to lower the roll Center even more and soften the springs further to get it to work. I would probably start with front silver springs and green rears on asphalt, and a little higher ride height(5.5mm)....good luck buddy...
07-28-2013, 07:35 PM
Well I'm using Losi shocks and I can watch the front wheels shake in the woops of the concrete under the rug. It's probably the steering, it's just loose and needs shimming or new bearings.
07-28-2013, 07:46 PM
Correct... Also consider Rpm ball cups all over and losi lcd drives(#losa3344) to remedy the cvd vibrations while turning...
07-28-2013, 08:17 PM
Another advantage of the dc4 le is that you can gear it higher than the tub tc4, and the belt cars , without seeing your motor go up in flames or losing punch... I gear my 1472gram tub tc4 at 3.65fdr in a indoor carpet track, but if my Car weighed 100grams less, I would gear it at 3.48fdr.....