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Old 08-03-2012, 07:57 AM
  #10606  
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Either way, I changed mine out yesterday and there were NO shims/spacers on it. Freah out of the box. Mine were taller as bertrandsv87 says. had to back off the droop screws quite a bit.
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:21 AM
  #10607  
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Rojna, that pdf is for the team kit, not the RTR's ! The rtr's come with nothing included.... Nuttynative, you're right about backing off the droop screw, and if you want to lower the roll center even further, you can raise the inner camber links as high as possible... It should improve handling alot......
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:43 AM
  #10608  
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
FOR ALL TC4 RACERS: PLEASE LOWER YOUR,CAR 'S ROLL CENTER BY FITTING FT TEAM ARM MOUNTS(#31064 and #31068) IN YOUR CAR WITHOUT ANY SHIMS.... OTHERWISE YOUR CAR WILL BE A BRICK, AND A TRACTION ROLLING KING !!!!
You directed your post to all TC4 racers, not just the RTR Racers ...

All my TC4's are FT or TEAM, never had a rtr.

Wonder what does the CLUB RACER comes with ?
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Old 08-03-2012, 10:30 AM
  #10609  
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I directed my comments on the currently available tc4's out there: rtr and club racer... AE discontinued their Ft kits and team kits a long time ago, and you know it !!! Moving forward, the plastic arm mounts are the only things to change here...
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Old 08-03-2012, 06:26 PM
  #10610  
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
FOR ALL TC4 RACERS: PLEASE LOWER YOUR,CAR 'S ROLL CENTER BY FITTING FT TEAM ARM MOUNTS(#31064 and #31068)
According to the AE website the #31608 (X-2.5) part has been discontinued.

The #31609 (X-2.0) part is still available. Will that perform basically the same?
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:41 AM
  #10611  
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Originally Posted by FrostyDude
According to the AE website the #31608 (X-2.5) part has been discontinued.
That's what I've also found at the hobby shops, they can't get it. I got mine on Ebay.
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:38 AM
  #10612  
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Heed YOUR warnings?

PFFFFTTTTT!!!

I'll heed the setup sheets and go from there.

http://www.teamassociated.com/cars_a...anuals_setups/



Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
If you already have the mounts, you can experiment, but if you have the stock RTR mounts, you're doomed... I don't think the club racer comes with the FT mounts, and hopefully racers will heed the warning......
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Old 08-04-2012, 04:01 PM
  #10613  
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I've had 2 setups that worked very well the first running 2/2/4/4 on arm mount shims and the current setup using 3/3/3/3 . . .

Running the car with FT mounts and no shims is reminiscent of the old carpet racing foam tire setups...
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:41 PM
  #10614  
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2/2/3/3 is my vta setting
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:24 PM
  #10615  
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I run 0/2/2/0 on carpet (some anti-dive and antisquat) to stop traction rolling... I have not tried it on asphalt yet....
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Old 08-08-2012, 07:47 AM
  #10616  
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I am going to try running 0/0/2/0 to solve my front caster angle lost on the front, causing my tc4 to wander a bit down the straight.... I will have to order another arm mount asc31065 to accomplish that.... Running flat 0/0 on the front end with the lowest roll center will be a first for me, and could be a game changer...
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Old 08-14-2012, 01:34 PM
  #10617  
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Default TC4 + LOSA3344 LCD DriveShaft

I finally had the chance to build the LOSA3344 LCDs. If I understand it correctly, I can use the existing TC4 hub carriers but I have to dremel? I thought I read that somewhere. I also have a set of Losi 2 degree Hub carriers that I can replace but if minimal work is required to make the existing TC4 hub carriers to work, I prefer to do that instead of changing the whole thing out.

Any pointers? This is my first time attempting this.
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Old 08-14-2012, 01:50 PM
  #10618  
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Originally Posted by saxo
I finally had the chance to build the LOSA3344 LCDs....
Why not run the associated 2402 cva's ??

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/2402/

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Old 08-14-2012, 02:19 PM
  #10619  
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Well... I bought the LOSA3344 on the recommendations in this forum because it was said to eliminate the chatter.
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Old 08-14-2012, 02:23 PM
  #10620  
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Saxo, you are right ! You need to dremel and open up the hole a bit, but the hole needs to be wider on the diff case side than the tire side , so you'll still have some meat left on the caster blocks.....
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