Rojna

6 screws from the bottom (4 diff case, 2 spur brace)
remove top shock nuts (2)
remove chassis brace screws (6) or remove outer screws (2) and pop off rear camber ball ends
pull up and remove rear diff case from chassis, remove drive cup and swap spur gear, not to hard and takes a couple minutes.

beemerfan

iTrader: (39)

That sounds like a lot of work. Doesn't the spur gear slip over the drive cup if you remove the drive pinion/input shaft assembly from the car? I helped someone get their spur gear out this weekend using what I know about the TC3 spur.

-Removed the 2 screws from the bottom of the chassis that hold the input bearing housing.

-Removed 6 screws from the top of the transmission.

-Lifted the upper transmission case with the input bearing housing and carefully removed the whole input shaft assembly without disconnecting shocks or upper links.

He did the rest so I don't know if the spur slid over the cups easily or not. But I thought this was one of the reasons the drive cups on the TC4 are smaller than the TC3 to make this process easier. I use this method on my TC3s and it works fine. I switched all the rear drive cups to aluminum ones from IRS and machined some plastic ones down so the spur just slides off over the cup. No disassembly of the input shaft is required.

Rojna

On a TC3 yes, on a TC4* no, the input bearing housing will not allow you to do that.

*On a FTTC4 you can slide the spur over the cup.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

Be thankful you aren't changing the spur on a FT TC4 - that is more like 20+ screws.

I've sometimes take the complete rear diff assembly out of the car to change spur gears as well as work on the roll center shims on tub chassis TC4's. While it may seem excessive, it really is one of the easier ways to work on that end of the car. Just remember when putting everything back together to make sure the cvds are in the diff outdrives when reconnecting the camber links.

One thing to note is not all spur gears will slide over the input cups on the TC3/TC4's. If that is the case, you might need to remove the input cup when replacing spurs.

Jordan Anderson

iTrader: (6)

Thanks!

Jordan Anderson

iTrader: (6)

I'm finding that my Reedy Lipo does not fit well in the TC4 Club Racer.

Obviously the spot for the battery and the battery strap were made for side by side NiMh packs...

So does everyone just trim the chassis with a dremel to make it fit the rectangular Lipos better? Or???

Thanks!

DarthRacer

iTrader: (8)

Yup, Dremel with a grinding wheel to take those tabs out. That is how I did both of mine.

blwaz23

Does anyone have a TC4 that has the carbon fiber chassis? If so can you post a pic?

Rojna

https://www.google.com/search?q=tc4+...Hqq10QGVsoDQBw

blwaz23

Also whats the difference between the FT TC4 chassis and the FT TC4 ITF chassis

Rojna

ITF is thinner, has more flex

blwaz23

SO which one would you prefer?

Rojna

ITF

Bubonic-X

iTrader: (4)

Want run VTA obviously you would run the HPI wheels..... What hub do they use. The pic for the Associated club racer shows a different plastic hub that almost looks like a torx wrench....

.crispy

Just looks different. Still a 12mm hex. Works like any other on the HPI vintage wheels.