RobS

6.3 FDR
48 boost
10000 end rpm
3000-4000 start
8 turbo
delay .3
ramp 2
motor timing 2nd notch on + side

I'm pretty sure its not the settings as I used the same settings with another D3 for the rest of the weekend and it was fine. When my motor blew I had literally just put the car down on the track and did one lap. Never was free revved either.

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

Well I don't know what to say about your motor, but those settings are pretty aggressive. With 2 ticks of timing on the motor and all the speedo's timing being added before 10,000 RPM, that can build a lot of heat. I run that same FDR but with no timing on the motor and I run a 5,000 to 17,000 RPM range and I still have temps around 180.

tmaxx26power

iTrader: (39)

I bought a Trinity Duo3 17.5 Been running it on an indoor carpet oval track in an EDM oval car-sorry this isnt a on road car but there seemed to be alot of good knowledge in this forum so I had to ask. It is a non boosted esc(Tekin RS Pro-Blinky Mode) class. I want to to bump the timing up on the can but not sure how much to go and exactly how to go about it. On the endbell is a 0 and on the can is a + with spaced marks to the left of that. Right now with the motor at 0 (as it appears) my gearing is correct and my temps are great but looking for a little more speed. Thanks

tmaxx26power

iTrader: (39)

Anyone?

trerc

iTrader: (89)

Loosen the 3 screws on the sensor side of the endbell and the center will turn, advance the timing slowly and check your temps. If your gearing is right you will likely end up with the timing pretty much cranked when racing in blinky mode.

tmaxx26power

iTrader: (39)

So I turn the endbell clockwise towards the marks to the left of the +symbol correct? How do I know where full timing is? Is there a built in stop? About how much timing are you adding at full cranked?

trerc

iTrader: (89)

Yes, towards the plus, it will stop at the plus.

franc furter

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone tested different rotors in 17.5 tc spec (no boost)? If so which rotor and fdr. thanks

RoadRunnerGTO

4wheeldrive

iTrader: (22)

I just picked up a used D3 13.5 and when I got it I spun the motor by hand and noticed that it was pretty noisy, sounded like a rattle, certainly didn't sound smooth. Once installed I ran the car and it was immediately noticeable the noise it made, the car made good speed but the noise was concerning. Is this typical of this 13.5 or is there something wrong here? I have a D3 17.5 and it's whisper quiet so I'm curious as to why this motor would be this noisy.

ewashburnaf

iTrader: (14)

That sucks.. get your money back.

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

I get them brand new like that. Its usually from the Bearing in the Sensor end that is not installed all the way or is crooked. Usually just tap the shaft of the motor on the table lightly and it will seat the bearing.

EA

RoadRunnerGTO

EA,

which rotor do you recommend for 17.5 non-timing in TC? and what do you consider as to how the rotor is properly shimmed.

Any info would be appreciated.

thanks

HappyHippo

iTrader: (12)

Anyone that has a good setup for EPIC D3 13,5 motor with LRP Stock Spec V2?

Jo90uk

Has anyone who has used the Duo2 and moved to the D3 found you need to change your normal gearing (FDR) much ?

Depends on the track as to gearing I know, but on a back to back using the Duo2 at the same track was there much if any difference ?


I run a Tekin RSPro. normal settings (latest Vegas software)

.02 Turbo delay
50 Boost
16 turbo
3 steps
2500 rpm start
10001 rpm end
no motor timing at all.
FDR approx 7.12 on a moderate complex track with 20-25 metre straight

This is on the Duo2, average temp is 65 Deg C (not sure what that is in F), normaly they say don't breach 80 Deg C so im well within that.

Would the D3 see this change much, if at all ?

cheers for any help