rc_speed

iTrader: (13)

FS: factory team TC6.1 with hopups and lots of spare parts.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...t-tc6-1-a.html

RussF

iTrader: (22)

In comparing all the setup sheets on the AE site it appears that most drivers do not use the offset arm mounts to minimize the amount of shims needed.

Is there a reason?

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

Good question. I use them and my car runs fine. There is no noticeable difference between shims and offset armmounts for me in the race.

The only reason I can think of is that they maybe don't want/need the full 2mm offset, or came from less shims from the training/last race and wanted to save time by just adding shims instead of changing the armmounts.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Russ, the offset mounts are supposed to move less than the std one.

IndyHobbies.com

Do many of you run the gear differenential in your TC6?

I have tried and tried, but the fact is that I just don't drive a spooled car as well as I do one with a front diff. I'd like to convert mine over to a gear differential. Their #31344 is $40 per set. Expensive!

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

For the last race I changed to gear diff in front with 3000cst oil (1000cst in rear one). Drove spool before and the car was awesome after the change. It had much more traction all around. Everything on medium grip carpet on a tight technical track with a 17.5t motor blinky class.

IndyHobbies.com

You are singing my song!

Did you buy your gear diffs new or are the the kind of thing you can find used?

RussF

iTrader: (22)

In most cases where the standard mounts are used there is more than 2mm of shims added. And in the case of the offset mounts used there is usually additional shims.


That sounds reasonable as one solid piece would move less than multiple parts.

Thanks for the replies guys.

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

New, but if you had the TC6 already and then bought one TC6.1 like me, then you have already a balldiff and a geardiff. I bought one geardiff when I just owned the TC6, so now I have the free choice between spool, slipper spool, geardiff and balldiff. Just the one way is missing in my "collection", because it is too expensive for the one or two races it can be used...

Slipper spool and geardiff are my favourites. They work nearly without maintenance and conserve the drive train.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

Toward the end of last carpet season, I experimented with Spool vs Gear Diff (with 500k traxxas oil) in both a TC6.1 and a Schui Mi4 on medium to high grip carpet.

What I found with both cars was that the Gear diff dove into corners a bit more, and was smoother through the corner. With the spool, corner exit traction was much, much better. I prefered the feel of the gear diff, and could drive it more consistently, but the spool was still faster because of the corner exit traction and our tight/technical track layout. Playing around with front droop made it easier to drive, and I eventually got used to it.

This season I'm only running the Schui (sold the TC6 because I wasn't any faster with it, and it was worth more ), but I have added the DCJ front driveshafts. IMO, it's the best of both worlds. You get the corner exit traction of the spool, but it's much smoother and feels more like a gear diff into and through the corner. So I'm quite happy with them.

-Mike

gom

iTrader: (1)

hi guys, i am running a tc6 and thinking about buying the 6.1 arms and hubs to update all 4 corners' suspensions. do i need to buy the new CVD's as well? if not, what size bearings will fit in? have anyone tried this?

so far what i've found is the tc6 CVD's use 6x10x3mm bearings and tc6.1 CVDs use 5x10x4mm bearings. I wonder if I can get away with tc6 CVDs in the new hubs with 6x10x4mm bearings.

mtbboy

iTrader: (1)

These are what you need to convert.
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...6/TC6-2-TC6.1/

trigger

iTrader: (15)

Wow, that list is quite extensive which also rhymes with expensive. I too have a TC6 collecting dust on the shelf. but i think id rather spend on the worlds shock towers and vertical ball bearing caps if i decide to bring it out of retirement.

Kevin Marcy

You don't need the complete CVA assembly, just the axle #31369 is enough. You do need the hub carriers, steering blocks, bearings, c-hubs, etc. The new style anti-roll bars are optional. 6x10 bearings won't work with the new CVAs.

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

It is quite a lot of stuff to buy to "upgrade" the car to a TC6.1. Even if you only want to use the new suspension parts. As owner of both versions (and the Worlds stuff tomorrow) I wouldn't recommend the purchase if it is not for other reasons than racing. The TC6.1 parts are OK and fast, but don't make the car faster. The old parts work fine and seem to offer a little more setup options.