Anything that sticks up more than 1/2 to 5/8 inch needs to go to the center for clearance. That includes the plugs of most receivers.

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I have a few questions regarding setup for a link type 12th. scale. I am about to build a Gen XL but am still working with my 3.2 Carpet Knife.

I run on an asphalt track that we clean and treat with sugar water, so the track (by 12th. scale standards) would be medium grip, but I think it hooks up pretty good. I am running basically at stock 17.5 brushless setup with no timing or esc boost. I have the newest CRC center shock with 30wt. oil in it, I'm running pink rear and magenta or purple fronts, trued to 48 and 46mm respectively. My gearing right now is 78/44 for a 3.37 roll out (not aggressive at all) I have 16awg wire to minimize any binding of the rear pod.

Here is my issue:

The car turnes one way (left) and is stuck. On the right handers it wants to spin on throttle. I know about tweak and such but no matter how I set it, I keep getting this issue. I am able to adjust the tweak screws and completely reverse the issue, but I can't find the middle.

I have checked that all of the moving parts are free. Front arms drop on their own. Rear pod with nothing connected moves free in all directions.

One thought is that since its a 3.2 and the brushless motor off set, throws things out of balance vs. the new cars with the motor weight considered, that it may be part of the problem.
Or, that the 1s battery and lighter rearend just has the car more sensitive.

Any other suggestions on how to tackle this common issue? It's hard to find any "cause and effect" articles about 12th. scale pan.

Thanks for any help!

Just right off hand....what condition is your servo AND/OR servo-saver in?

Good day!

I run a 3.1 Carpet Knife with lipo and 17.5 brushless with boost. I have 1/4 oz weight on the rear pod on the spur gear side forword as far out as it will go to help compinsate for the inballance. The car works realy well and I have no turning problems.

Things I would check....Make shure you do not have a bent king pin. Make shure your front lower armes are the same hight ( they do bend after a couple of hits). Check all bearings. Check your front springs for size and play.
Make shure your front upper arms are moving free and the pins are not bent.
Check rid hight to mke sure the chassies is not rubbing on a turn.

Hope this helps.

Servo saver seems to be okay although I will check. Servo is the Futaba digital, can't remember the numbers but its one of the common ones.

I will check the weight balance, bearings, springs and arms again to see if I can spot anything.

I have been runing my tweak springs (white) all the way up and have had the car pretty balanced. Yesterday when I was testing and had this problem, I could reverse the issue by screwing the right spring (looking from behind the car) all the way in and leaving the left one alone.
But from there, I could never work them to a balanced point. Kind of crazy.

Oh, ride height was pretty much 4mm all the way around.

Also check the pivot football for binding and play.

anyone know who made or where to get the front adaptor blocks that allowed you to mount the new style 12r5 front suspension arms onto an old school spaced and screw sized chassis? Old school and reactive caster having the same spacing with the 8-32 screw size as compared to the spacing difference and metric screws used on the new 12r5 front suspension system.

Thanks,
Alex

Hyperdrive racing makes them.

I think you are looking for these:

http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...oducts_id=1929

Is it normal to put in 230-240mah in a 220mah li-fe receiver pack after one run? My RS is being cut off quite a few times and I'm thinking the rx pack may be acting up since it had never put in that much on one charge.

Its an IP/Protek pack thats only a couple months of use on maybe 4 race days, storage charged at 3.9v/cell when not in use. It doesnt look swollen or anything abnormal.

That amount of charge is not normal at all. 30-50 mah is more like it. The LiFe battery nominal voltage is 3.3v per cell, 6.6v for 2s. Peak cutoff should be 7.2v for 2s. Storage charge could be in the 3.3-3.5v per cell range, but not 3.9v. Sounds like you have been charging your LiFe pack with Lipo settings. Regardless, sound like you need a new receiver pack

I know of other people who had this problem with their Tekins, its not just you. I would ask this on the Tekin thread but from memory one fix was to turn the switch to OFF when using a receiver pack.

what are some of the tricksu doto theride height adjustersto free theup with out making the bearings wobble

Find a 3/8" reamer (NOT a 3/8 drill bit!!) and run it through all the bores of the adjusters. Sizes them PERFECTLY to the bearings, they'll fit snugly but don't "snap" which compresses the bearings. The old Associated adjusters are from OLD molds and REALLY REALLY need this treatment, but even the IRS adjusters benefit noticeably from this treatment.

I bought my reamer forever ago from Niftech, but any industrial supply company can probably provide one.

THEN use some sort of marker (I've heard of folks using White Out, I used a silver paint pen) and mark the adjusters so they're easier to read. Becomes important as your eyes begin to go to crap like mine.