2991Likes1/12 forum
09-12-2010 | 08:41 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,625
That said, 17.5 is very easy to drive in 1/12th and is a great place to start for someone just beginning. If there is a 17.5 class where you race, I would run that. If you want to be faster than everyone else, just don't hit anything.
09-12-2010 | 10:04 AM
I've always told myself no sense in having the biggest and baddest motor or ESC if I can't control it. I have a spare 21.5 but think I will look into a 17.5.
The track I race at has a 13.5 class but don't think they will have a problem if I run a 17.5 with them.
The track I race at has a 13.5 class but don't think they will have a problem if I run a 17.5 with them.
That's pretty smart and not something I usually hear. Usually it's, "What's the fastest motor I can use in this?" or something to that nature.
That said, 17.5 is very easy to drive in 1/12th and is a great place to start for someone just beginning. If there is a 17.5 class where you race, I would run that. If you want to be faster than everyone else, just don't hit anything.
That said, 17.5 is very easy to drive in 1/12th and is a great place to start for someone just beginning. If there is a 17.5 class where you race, I would run that. If you want to be faster than everyone else, just don't hit anything.
09-12-2010 | 10:26 AM
The only problem with running a slower motor to learn the set-up is that often you need a different set-up for a faster motor. I can often tell what class a driver runs by what tires he says he is using. The tires that are fast for 17.5 often don't have enough grip for a 13.5 or 10.5.
I would suggest getting a 13.5 so you will have it but just go conservative on the esc set-up and gearing. This will take a lot of the grunt away and allow you to get the hang of it. Then when you feel you are ready for more power, just start adding timing and gear.
I would suggest getting a 13.5 so you will have it but just go conservative on the esc set-up and gearing. This will take a lot of the grunt away and allow you to get the hang of it. Then when you feel you are ready for more power, just start adding timing and gear.
09-12-2010 | 12:21 PM
09-12-2010 | 12:49 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,625
I agree with what Sean is saying, which is why I said, "if there is a 17.5 class, I would run that".
If 13.5 is the slowest class they run, go with the 13.5 and adjust either your esc current limiter or adjust your radios high point. That way you can run the faster motor with less power and work your way up to more power the better you get.
Thanks guys.
If 13.5 is the slowest class they run, go with the 13.5 and adjust either your esc current limiter or adjust your radios high point. That way you can run the faster motor with less power and work your way up to more power the better you get.
Thanks guys.
09-12-2010 | 01:29 PM
Tech Adept
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 216
From: Florida
I'd suggest starting with a car that is similar (or at least common) to what others at your club will be racing with. It will make it easier to get help or flesh out setup problems that you might run into. 12th scale can be finicky, sometimes something really small will make a big difference.
CRC GenXL and Associated 12R5 are pretty common and definitely competative. BMI with the old school front end is pretty straight forward for someone to help you with. Speedmerchant with the old front end is again straight forward. The newer front ends might be harder to help you with until people have them figured out a bit better.
Tekin RS speed control is common and pretty well sorted out (probably go with the RS / Tekin motor combo that is correct for the class that you'd be running, i.e. 17.5 or 13.5). I'm going with the new Novak Kinetic 1S and Ballistic combo but it isn't as well sorted out yet since the Kinetics are pretty new. The AE Black Diamond is interesting. It is really spendy and isn't computer programmable (has to be sent to the factory for firmware upgrades), but it's finite settings (have a handful of "profiles" for the various functions) might be, in a way, easier to setup and it is unquestionably fast. I'm not necessarily suggesting it, but it might be worth putting in your research queue.
Servo, Futaba 9650 or JR 3650 are the tops of my lists.
Thunderpower packs are well thought of 5000+MAh 50c (although I went with a budget pack from Protek 5000MAH 40c for less $ as I don't think I'll notice or need the 50c rate running 17.5). SMC and others make great packs too, probably won't go wrong if you just do a little research before buying. These are 1S LiPo hard case, but you probably already get that.
Depending on class, you'll want pinion / spurs capable of 60-100mm rollout. Plan to get a bunch of pinions, probably from about 40-60 tooth and a couple spurs 76,80,84 (car will probably come with 88). If you can do some research on your motor / class (ESC rules, sportsman or open) / track size, you can probably slim those down to maybe 2 spurs and a dozen pinions...
CRC GenXL and Associated 12R5 are pretty common and definitely competative. BMI with the old school front end is pretty straight forward for someone to help you with. Speedmerchant with the old front end is again straight forward. The newer front ends might be harder to help you with until people have them figured out a bit better.
Tekin RS speed control is common and pretty well sorted out (probably go with the RS / Tekin motor combo that is correct for the class that you'd be running, i.e. 17.5 or 13.5). I'm going with the new Novak Kinetic 1S and Ballistic combo but it isn't as well sorted out yet since the Kinetics are pretty new. The AE Black Diamond is interesting. It is really spendy and isn't computer programmable (has to be sent to the factory for firmware upgrades), but it's finite settings (have a handful of "profiles" for the various functions) might be, in a way, easier to setup and it is unquestionably fast. I'm not necessarily suggesting it, but it might be worth putting in your research queue.
Servo, Futaba 9650 or JR 3650 are the tops of my lists.
Thunderpower packs are well thought of 5000+MAh 50c (although I went with a budget pack from Protek 5000MAH 40c for less $ as I don't think I'll notice or need the 50c rate running 17.5). SMC and others make great packs too, probably won't go wrong if you just do a little research before buying. These are 1S LiPo hard case, but you probably already get that.
Depending on class, you'll want pinion / spurs capable of 60-100mm rollout. Plan to get a bunch of pinions, probably from about 40-60 tooth and a couple spurs 76,80,84 (car will probably come with 88). If you can do some research on your motor / class (ESC rules, sportsman or open) / track size, you can probably slim those down to maybe 2 spurs and a dozen pinions...
09-12-2010 | 02:38 PM
Thanks guys, I already have a 13.5 in the car I will just run that and adjust the the electronics till I feel comfortable.
I'm just thinking out loud here but, by adjusting the trims is the car going to see less power and would I be running a different tire than the people running the 13.5 class?
I'm just thinking out loud here but, by adjusting the trims is the car going to see less power and would I be running a different tire than the people running the 13.5 class?
09-12-2010 | 04:38 PM
Tech Master
Joined: Oct 2005
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