Man I hope you guys can help me out....I recently purchsed a crc 3.2r and some guys at my LHS are telling me to sale it saying its to wide and to get a Gen x is this true?...Whats the difference between the Genx and say a 12L4 is it just preference or engineering ? Which way should I go any help would be appriciated.....

the genx/ 3.2r are link cars. the 12l4 is a t-bar car. they are 2 diff. animals.
I have not ran the genx chassis but I've heard some say that they prefered the 3.2r and that they were faster with it.

are you runnign on asphalt or carpet?

carpet....Always for me

I acquired recently a used L3 and did some research to slightly upgrade the car.

I will post the major parts I purchase with ref and manufacturers, just have to put my hand on the list!

First...honest gut-check time. The fact you have to ask the question (and shame on the folks at your LHS for putting the question in your mind...) tells me you wouldn't know the difference between the two if you drove 'em back to back. That level of experience takes TIME.

Second...I wouldn't have the Gen-X up my a$$ if I had room for a barn. But that's personal choice, just like the guys at your LHS, just like most folks here. Your best bet would be to spend this year racing your 3.2R (which is a DARN good car) and learn set-up's, how different adjustments affect the car, and adapt it to your own style. Once you get to where you can see what the different adjustments do and IF you find an aspect of your 3.2R that you just can't adjust to your liking...THEN you try to find a chassis that will. IF there is one. And someone had better be able to show you why chassis X will solve your ills because there really isn't a lot of difference between any of the chassis out there when you get right down to it. And NO difference between them that a first year (or second, or many third) driver would be able to exploit.

Drive what you've got, have fun with it. The best part about 1/12 is that you will learn something new every race weekend. I know guys that have raced 'em for 20 years now and STILL hear 'em go "Hmmm..." every week.

Scottrik

Bryan,

As said, here are the parts I ordered to refresh and slightly upgrade a used L3:
4222 - CRC - Complete Large Ring Diff - Silver (there are others colors)

As mine is used:
1972 - Robinson - Spur Gear 48DP 72T - Was thinking in ordering a Kimbrough 48DP 76T - the one from stock but not available @ LHS . Is that a "good" choice knowing I shall start with 540 or so?
4520 - Associated - 12LC/L3/L4 Symmetrical T -bar, .063" thick - spare
1610 - Protoform - Speed 12 B
2325 - Jaco - Jaco 1/12 Medium Firm Low 3-Hole Wheel 1.40" Purple
2345 - Jaco - Jaco 1/12 Wheel/Tire Rear Gray


After, there is some items I purchase because I don't them at all, re-entering RC after a will:
6591 - Associated - Associated Diff Lube, 4cc
6588 - Associated - Black Grease

I did not buy any lower motor mount or so, the first step is to learn how things works!

Any comment?

Scott,
Interesting saying. That's the kind of mental image we can do without.

...all right, how 'bout "they're about as F-ed up as a football bat". I don't know where I got all these expressions I use, but they seem to be a source of nonstop amusement for my buds.

But I hope you see my point--I was trying to make an extreme example that we all have opinions. Some are very strong opinions. I really think his lhs is doing him a disservice to tell him to get rid of a perfectly good car and replace it with one that there's no way in hell will be any better (or worse) for him.

The fact I REALLY don't like the Gen X (owned 2 of 'em, mind you) doesn't enter into it one little bit

...I wouldn't have the Gen-X up my a$$ if I had room for a barn. Scottrik[/quote]

How about a Slappy? Tell us how you really feel

I just received my new Gen-X and I must say, my experience with the car is nothing but positive. The car goes together easy and is both easier to drive and quicker than my old car.

I do wish they labeled the tires in the kit, everyone tells me they are purple front and grey rear, for stock on carpet, they work well. Can anyone confirm? Purple + grey?

Hey all, so I'm a noob to 1/12th. Just picked up a T-Fource and I'm wondering about rollout and tire diameters. I saw earlier in this thread that OD recommended a 63mm rollout for the Novak 13.5 with the sintered, which I likely what I'll be running, but I'm wondering what tire diameter I should be shooting for to achieve this? The tires I got with the car are some pinks that are about 47-48mm judging my my crappy manual caliper. The spur gear on the tranny is a 64p 92 tooth gear so I've got my 40 tooth pinion mounted up.
I guess I'm jsut wondering what most guys will trim a new rear down to for high-bite carpet? Specifically I'll be running at NorCal (I think OD runs there) and AllSpeed in the bay are.

Thanks!

Avocet, purple fronts and grey rears are the lifeblood of tyres on carpet.

99% of the time they will be the best choice, sometimes magenta fronts are better if there is a lot of grip.

Hi Guys,
Can anyone give me the web site address or link to view the Ascari 1/12 scale car.

Thanks
Damit

I just did a little playin' around with the calculator (always love that) with the specs you've given. I used 47.5 as your tire diameter and find your roll-out is 64.88mm (almost 65). Now it's easy to look and think "63mm...64.88mm...that's pretty close" but the reality is its darn nearly 3% high. Even figuring 47mm diameter you're at 64.2mm (2%). Your 40 tooth pinion will your 63mm roll-out figure when your tires are just over 46mm in diameter.

If you've got pinions in a range of 38-43 you can hit 63mm over the entire tire range from 48mm down to about 43.5mm (about the minimum I can run and keep 3.5-4mm ride height). If you added a 37 and a 44 you could experiment with some other targets, higher and lower, off either end of your tire diameter life. This assumes, of course, you stay with a 92 spur.

There are different opinions on this, and I'd CERTAINLY listen to what OD had to say on the matter. For club races I'll run tires at 48-48.5 new and run them down to 45 or so. The thing to keep in mind is that tires are REALLY easy to "chunk" at 47-48mm. I've gotten to where that doesn't happen to me very often, but there are no "savings" to be had running larger diameter tires if you get a hunk taken out of one.

Any tires that end up at 45-46mm go into a baggie and are saved for my next "bigger" race of which I hit 3 or so per year. Racing about every other weekend Oct-Mar I'm usually able to take 2 sets of tires that are run to that diameter to any of those races, and if I needed more I've got a tire truer