2991Likes1/12 forum
12-22-2007 | 03:10 PM
Tech Initiate
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 42
From: Los Angeles
Associated L4
Hi guys,
Just got an Associated L4, and I have found out there is a side-to-side play on the front axle after I put the wheel on. Should I get a different wheel or is this normail with L4. I am new to 1/12. Please help. Thanks..
Just got an Associated L4, and I have found out there is a side-to-side play on the front axle after I put the wheel on. Should I get a different wheel or is this normail with L4. I am new to 1/12. Please help. Thanks..
12-22-2007 | 03:43 PM
Aaron,
I think your problem is that you have flangeless bearings in your fronts, you need to get the same size bearing only flanged. The flangeless were used in the jaco older style of rim that has been on the market for several years now that is probably been discontinued.
Steve
I think your problem is that you have flangeless bearings in your fronts, you need to get the same size bearing only flanged. The flangeless were used in the jaco older style of rim that has been on the market for several years now that is probably been discontinued.
Steve
12-22-2007 | 04:09 PM
Tech Initiate
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 42
From: Los Angeles
Aaron,
I think your problem is that you have flangeless bearings in your fronts, you need to get the same size bearing only flanged. The flangeless were used in the jaco older style of rim that has been on the market for several years now that is probably been discontinued.
Steve
I think your problem is that you have flangeless bearings in your fronts, you need to get the same size bearing only flanged. The flangeless were used in the jaco older style of rim that has been on the market for several years now that is probably been discontinued.
Steve
So if I want to use this rim, I need to find flanged bearings? Or if I can get the older style Jaco rim, I can get away with my existing flangeless bearings.
By the way, what front and rear track width do you normally run. Thank you very much Steve....
Best,
Aaron
12-22-2007 | 04:24 PM
Aaron,
For the rear track most people always run max width which is 172mm.
The front track is mostly fixed. When you get the proper bearings in the wheels chances are at most you can add one small shim but really there is not alot to alter in the front without some modification which if you are running a 1/12th for the first time sticking to stock is probably best.
Getting back to the rear width its commonly believed that running max width in the back gives the most stable rear. Running a little narrower gives more grip. Same basically with the front.
As for the bearings some rims require flanged some flangeless, you should maybe just consider having a set of each.
Hopes this helps
Steve
For the rear track most people always run max width which is 172mm.
The front track is mostly fixed. When you get the proper bearings in the wheels chances are at most you can add one small shim but really there is not alot to alter in the front without some modification which if you are running a 1/12th for the first time sticking to stock is probably best.
Getting back to the rear width its commonly believed that running max width in the back gives the most stable rear. Running a little narrower gives more grip. Same basically with the front.
As for the bearings some rims require flanged some flangeless, you should maybe just consider having a set of each.
Hopes this helps
Steve
12-22-2007 | 04:28 PM
Tech Initiate
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 42
From: Los Angeles
Aaron,
For the rear track most people always run max width which is 172mm.
The front track is mostly fixed. When you get the proper bearings in the wheels chances are at most you can add one small shim but really there is not alot to alter in the front without some modification which if you are running a 1/12th for the first time sticking to stock is probably best.
Getting back to the rear width its commonly believed that running max width in the back gives the most stable rear. Running a little narrower gives more grip. Same basically with the front.
As for the bearings some rims require flanged some flangeless, you should maybe just consider having a set of each.
Hopes this helps
Steve
For the rear track most people always run max width which is 172mm.
The front track is mostly fixed. When you get the proper bearings in the wheels chances are at most you can add one small shim but really there is not alot to alter in the front without some modification which if you are running a 1/12th for the first time sticking to stock is probably best.
Getting back to the rear width its commonly believed that running max width in the back gives the most stable rear. Running a little narrower gives more grip. Same basically with the front.
As for the bearings some rims require flanged some flangeless, you should maybe just consider having a set of each.
Hopes this helps
Steve
12-22-2007 | 04:50 PM
Tech Initiate
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 42
From: Los Angeles
Aaron,
As beginner in 1:12th, I wrote some stuff about some fairly basic things on those car. You can read about this here. I guess that well know by experimented 1:12th pilots but for newbie, I hope that can help.
As beginner in 1:12th, I wrote some stuff about some fairly basic things on those car. You can read about this here. I guess that well know by experimented 1:12th pilots but for newbie, I hope that can help.
12-23-2007 | 04:38 PM
Are any of you using the Niftech alignment tool? I just got mine, and am having a heck of a time trying to understand how it works!
I'm able to get it attached to the car, but how the hell are you supposed to derive any measurements when there is nothing scribed anywhere (except for the white lines)
Hopefully, i'm missing something simple.
Any help on this would be appreciated.
-Steve
I'm able to get it attached to the car, but how the hell are you supposed to derive any measurements when there is nothing scribed anywhere (except for the white lines)
Hopefully, i'm missing something simple.
Any help on this would be appreciated.
-Steve
12-23-2007 | 05:18 PM
I have one of those, and use it to set the rear width and make sure the rear tires are centered on the pod.
1)Add shims to rear axle until width reads 172mm (I use a set of 12" Harbor Freight Digital calipers to check this.) Doesn't matter what side you put the shims on at this point.
2)Put the metal block up against the rear wheel as shown in the picture. Leave the thumbscrew that holds the rod loose.
3)Push on the rod until it barely touches the side of the chassis as shown in the picture. Tighten the thumbscrew.
4) Put the gauge on the other rear wheel and sweep the rod so it passes the side of the chassis. The rod should barely touch the side of the chassis. If the rod doesn't touch the chassis or hits with the side of the rod, the axle isn't centered. Move the shims on the rear axle, reset the rod and try again. When the rod barely touches the side of the chassis on both sides, the axle is centered.
It takes a few tries to get it right, but once you do you can note how many shims are on each side and you don't have to mess with it again unless you change rear wheel brands (different offset).
Hope this helps. I saw you post this on rcracing.com so i'm guessing you're local to the NorCal area. Next time you come to Norcal Hobbies hit me up and I can show you how to use it.
-James
1)Add shims to rear axle until width reads 172mm (I use a set of 12" Harbor Freight Digital calipers to check this.) Doesn't matter what side you put the shims on at this point.
2)Put the metal block up against the rear wheel as shown in the picture. Leave the thumbscrew that holds the rod loose.
3)Push on the rod until it barely touches the side of the chassis as shown in the picture. Tighten the thumbscrew.
4) Put the gauge on the other rear wheel and sweep the rod so it passes the side of the chassis. The rod should barely touch the side of the chassis. If the rod doesn't touch the chassis or hits with the side of the rod, the axle isn't centered. Move the shims on the rear axle, reset the rod and try again. When the rod barely touches the side of the chassis on both sides, the axle is centered.
It takes a few tries to get it right, but once you do you can note how many shims are on each side and you don't have to mess with it again unless you change rear wheel brands (different offset).
Hope this helps. I saw you post this on rcracing.com so i'm guessing you're local to the NorCal area. Next time you come to Norcal Hobbies hit me up and I can show you how to use it.
-James
12-23-2007 | 08:22 PM
I have one of those, and use it to set the rear width and make sure the rear tires are centered on the pod.
1)Add shims to rear axle until width reads 172mm (I use a set of 12" Harbor Freight Digital calipers to check this.) Doesn't matter what side you put the shims on at this point.
2)Put the metal block up against the rear wheel as shown in the picture. Leave the thumbscrew that holds the rod loose.
3)Push on the rod until it barely touches the side of the chassis as shown in the picture. Tighten the thumbscrew.
4) Put the gauge on the other rear wheel and sweep the rod so it passes the side of the chassis. The rod should barely touch the side of the chassis. If the rod doesn't touch the chassis or hits with the side of the rod, the axle isn't centered. Move the shims on the rear axle, reset the rod and try again. When the rod barely touches the side of the chassis on both sides, the axle is centered.
It takes a few tries to get it right, but once you do you can note how many shims are on each side and you don't have to mess with it again unless you change rear wheel brands (different offset).
Hope this helps. I saw you post this on rcracing.com so i'm guessing you're local to the NorCal area. Next time you come to Norcal Hobbies hit me up and I can show you how to use it.
-James
1)Add shims to rear axle until width reads 172mm (I use a set of 12" Harbor Freight Digital calipers to check this.) Doesn't matter what side you put the shims on at this point.
2)Put the metal block up against the rear wheel as shown in the picture. Leave the thumbscrew that holds the rod loose.
3)Push on the rod until it barely touches the side of the chassis as shown in the picture. Tighten the thumbscrew.
4) Put the gauge on the other rear wheel and sweep the rod so it passes the side of the chassis. The rod should barely touch the side of the chassis. If the rod doesn't touch the chassis or hits with the side of the rod, the axle isn't centered. Move the shims on the rear axle, reset the rod and try again. When the rod barely touches the side of the chassis on both sides, the axle is centered.
It takes a few tries to get it right, but once you do you can note how many shims are on each side and you don't have to mess with it again unless you change rear wheel brands (different offset).
Hope this helps. I saw you post this on rcracing.com so i'm guessing you're local to the NorCal area. Next time you come to Norcal Hobbies hit me up and I can show you how to use it.
-James
What about toe and camber? I really don't get that part. I'll look you up if I make it to NorCal.
Regards,
Steve