Originally Posted by SlowerOne

In a class where tenths count because you're losing them for eight minutes, not five, very slight isn't good enough. A free, but slip-free diff is an essential component of a good handling 12th car.

Thrust races make the diff stiff and 'lazy'. There is nothing wrong with the ballrace used as a thrust race providing the diff is glass smooth and has absolutely no slip at all. They last much longer if you have a belleville washer between the nut and the thrust cone, as this takes the side knocks when you hit the boards.

I have run Corally thrust races for ages, and couldn't believe the improvement in turn in and power out from corners when I switched back to a ballrace. The ballrace must be very clean - no grease or oil - and then have one drop of synthetic oil in it to help with friction on the cage. Any grease or thick oil and the ballrace will slip, meaning you have to do the diff up tighter.

Here's the definitive diff-building advice from the man himself - Dave Irrgang.

http://www.teamirsrc.com/techtips.html

One last tip - make sure to use a steel ballrace, and not a ceramic one. The ceramic ones have to be done up tighter as they slip more due to the ceramic coating. HTH

Originally Posted by avs

what do you mean by ball race? i presume thrust race means a thrust bearing (like splapmaster), but 'ball race' means what? are you referring to the thrust bearing with races replaced with flat washers?

Originally Posted by odpurple

He means using the ball bearing in the outer part of the hub as the thrust, the way most of the cars like 12R5 etc come. He's just hard to understand sometimes because he speaks the Queen's english

Originally Posted by Gyr0

Around what are these worth? Interested in one just don't want to pay more then there worth.

Here's a link to the one Im looking at
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=308384

Originally Posted by odpurple

He means using the ball bearing in the outer part of the hub as the thrust, the way most of the cars like 12R5 etc come. He's just hard to understand sometimes because he speaks the Queen's english

Originally Posted by Radio Active

I have the use of an original AMBrc DP transponder for an upcoming meeting.

However, I've just noticed there are products available to boost the power to the transponder for 4 cell set-ups.

Has anybody ever had any problems with this transponder in a 4 cell car?

Also, if anybody knows if an LRP ICS Digital is ok to do 4 cell modified for 8 minutes that would be a help.

Originally Posted by PHI/BMI racer

I have the same transponder and have had it not pick up for my last 2 laps due to the pack running low close to dump... Since then got the booster for it and never a problem again... Don't want to chance that again. Even with 1S Lipo's these days the can come close to dump in Mod.

Originally Posted by Radio Active

I just checked and neither of my local hobby shops have such a product. Less than a week before I leave for Melbourne, what to do?

Originally Posted by CarbonJoe

Run a receiver pack.

Originally Posted by Radio Active

Great.

I just checked and neither of my local hobby shops have such a product. Less than a week before I leave for Melbourne, what to do?

Originally Posted by PHI/BMI racer

Read carefully people... Not a voltage booster for the ESC a voltage booster to the transponder... It makes sure it gets voltage when battery is running low so you don't get a missed lap... Anyway get the novak one, I been running it for 4 years still going strong.
You can order from RC-mushroom although a lot of places have it... Maybe give Novak USA a call...

Originally Posted by Grenade10

If you are concerned about low voltage to the transponder towards the end of a run, would you not also have less voltage for the servo as well? That is why most run a receiver pack, which then powers the servo and transponder, leaving all the voltage in the 1s lipo for the motor. Just seems to make more sense.

My 2 cents