Hey guys

I have been let down on a car i was hoping to get for the winter , any one got a CRC GenXL for sale ???? and willing to ship to Holland ??

I would like something with some spares and long arm conversion (if i am to choose) haha

Thanks Phil

I know this has been asked before, Does anyone have a 1/12th tekin 17.5 blinky motor setup on a 100'x45 indoor carpet track?
With a 1.68" rear tire what gearing and what motor timing should I use for a D3 17.5 and a Revtech 17.5?

Any help would be appreciated

Yes, mine will arrive next week.
It's going to be my first 1/12 so I'm pretty curious about it.

Go to Tekin's website and click the Hotwire tab at the top. On the right side of the next page is a link for team setup sheets, go there and find Sal Amato's setup from Snowbirds. It's pretty much the standard for 17.5 non-boost racing I'd imagine. I'd time either motor at the next to last notch, but most people will just say crank it all the way... I've never liked that much but who knows, I've only run the 17.5 class twice.

Ask around your track for rollout, it really depends on the layout.

As it's your first 12th scale.
THIS page may be of some help

Gearing: start with the smallest spur you have, and the largest pinion you can find like a 50/72. Only change gearing based on LAP TIMES, 17.5 blinky will always be cold running and you need to base changes on something other than temperature. It is possible to make your lap times slower by overgearing without making the motor any hotter.

Timing: Start with about 35 degrees static on the endbell or equivalent.

P.S. Why do people bother with 1s 17.5 blinky? People went much faster with stock motors and NiMH years ago. I think silver can and NiMH would be faster than 17.5 blinky and 1s.

I already added it to my favorites, a lot of good info there.

Can't wait for everything to arrive so I can start practicing.

Thanks guys this is why i love this forum , within 2 hrs and i have 2 PM's with offers and i have one from the UK

what ratio i need for 13.5 turns

and what range of spurs and pinions i need? 64dp? 48dp?

Blinky or boosted? Tire sizes? Either way, 64p is the only way to go.

At carpet nats in this class we were rolling out at around 101-105mm depending on the driver. That will get you into the ball park.

Sorry, boosted is most important for me... But if you know for 0 degree too, please tell me...
Tires always as small as possible... But if I know the range of pinions a bit i can never be wrong...

Heres a bit of a debate: When I paint and cut out a new body I make it basically bolted on the chassis, barely make the post holes big enough for the posts and use foam and big clips to keep it under constant tension and never move, but I have seen other people do the exact opposite, and enlarge the body holes and have the body sit loose on the car. I can see how that would be useful if the car wasn't as stiff as they are today, and in the distant past it was easy to tweak a chassis, but is it really worth it today?

I believe the body should add downforce, and protection.
Loose & floating is best.
This way the chassis won't have an Extra spring, and the car will be more forgiving when grazing dots, barriers or anything else we bump into.

Carbide Tire File

Thought I'd let fellow 1/12 scale racers know about this

http://www.rctech.net/forum/9730957-post1.html

Found these in a box left from my RC track and were the best tire files I had found. Have already sold 5, and now only 2 left to sell.

Mark