Well, obviously the Tekin Rep should know his own product, and ESCs change every couple of months these days, but in the past you would have fried the BEC.

jaybee,if the switch is off (rs)there is no lipo cut off,if you are no where close to using a full pack then don't worry about it

Im running a speedpasion lpf esc with a reciever pack. I have the pack plugged in only and the switch off on the sec but its not getting power. How is this supposed to work??

In the past when you use a RX pack, you will either:

1) turn off the esc (but this may disabled some ESC features)

or

2) turn on the esc, but remove the 'red' wire on the esc plug connecting to the receiver. This will basically turn off the internal BEC. Because if you dont, you will fry the BEC circuit.

However, for newer tekin releases (v200 or above) you dont need to remove the 'red' wire anymore.

Some earlier ESCs do not officially support 3.7v operation. The lowest listed is probably 4.8v... although some ESC can work under-voltage.

I remembered trying a SPv1.0 + 3.7v and it did not work (no power at all).

What version is your LPF?

Thanks guys:)

I have a v2.0. So could I keep the esc switch on, but unplug my red wire permanently?

As i have mentioned above, you can try 2 ways to see if your esc powers up.

1) RX battery plugged into Receiver's 'Batt' Slot (make sure which is +'ve and which is -'ve). Leave ESC 'off', then plug your main battery (1s) to the esc. When you trigger, the motor will spin.

or

2) On the safe side, remove the 'red' wire, plug in RX battery, plug in main battery, and turn 'on' ESC... and see if you have power.

If both ways you tried and still has no power, then your ESC may not support 1S operation.

You can further test your ESC by inputting a 2S power source. If ESC work, then it confirms that you esc cannot support low-voltage. But if your ESC does not work in 2S operation, then there is something wrong with your ESC.

I have no power with option number 1. I do however with option 2, when I have the red wire removed. Can I run with the wire unpluged and keep my esc switched on without harming it?

It should NOT harm the ESC. By removing the red wire you are basically shutting OFF the internal BEC only. Actually your ESC will run cooler this way.

But I cannot figured why option 1 does not work while option 2 works in your case, maybe someone else can explain that.

Im really not sure. I would test it with a 2s battery, but I dont have one at the moment. Well it works with the red wire out, Ill just run it like that I guess!

I just thought of something:

Maybe the SP LPFv2 switch cuts out 'everything' including the power and the signal when it is in the 'OFF' position. (Because in SPv2, they moved the setup button to where the switch is, so there must be a micro circuit on the switch itself)

Since option 2 works for you, then don't worry about it. Just go out and have fun!

I've found the CH12 easy to tune and driving with the RS Pro in "spec mode" was fairly easy, but once I copied some of the Tekin team drivers setup sheets I was in big trouble. The CH12 has hung on like a champ as I've been slamming it into the walls. The amount of speed I can carry through the corners is hard to get used to. The awesomeness of the thing is distracting. . . I am too busy smiling. :D

Hey guys, I need some advice for the rear end setup on a 12r5.1 in 17.5 nonboosted.
Last week Black fronts/ Grey rears were hooked up(CRC carpet), but the layout was changed and now 2x Pink front/Magenta rears were hooking up(a whole second faster).
My trouble comes still with the rear end. Going into a corner and throughout the beginning of turn in, the rear end slides or skips out. It causes the diff to slip and results in slowing down.
Now, not all the turns are point and shoot and going a little wide to carry speed had helped out, but occasionally through the sweeper it would essentially 'skip' to the left, other turns it would 'skip' to the right.
With the Grey rears the rear end would slide out, with Magentas it would skip or hop over. I had guys telling me anything from full pod droop, no front camber, go back to Grey tires etc etc and nothing worked. In fact some suggestions were so out of left field I didn't bother trying them.

In essence, I'd get 3/4 of the way through a turn and then the rear end would hop over, turning me the last 1/4 of the turn.

Thanks guys

Have you tried a Yellow or White Rear tire?
idbdoug