Hey guys,

Can you give me a crash course on setup for 1/12th scale?? I'll be running in
a very small carpet indoor track. We can use any traction compound we want. My car is a Xray XII Link car.

1) What do the shore ratings color mean?? (Are they the same for front/rear)? What brand is good? Jaco? Parma?

2) What bodies are you guys using??

3) What traction compound works best with carpet?? Paragon? Jack the Gripper?


Any information would help, or links to where I can read about it.

Thanks for all your help guys.

(Attached is a pic of where I'll be running)

Looking to get back into 1/12th scale...Is anybody running the Hot Bodies 12x these days? Pros or cons?

Anyone know of any similar alternatives for: CRC #4289 1/12th Front End Pro-Brace - Blue? :) Supposedly it's out of production.

It's for a 12R5.1 with either default front end or upper arm mounts 1mm inwards (also run lower arms 2mm outwards, but that isn't relevant for this).

Serpent has this:

http://www.serpent.com/product/411182/

Jaco and Parma tires are the same. Here is Jaco's chart:

http://www.jacoracing.net/prism_1_12.html

Jaco has added a rear compound called Orange which is a narrow band of Gray at the outside of the wheel with the remaining tire being yellow. I would start with Orange rears and Lilac fronts using Paragon. The rest of your set up will greatly affect how the car handles so after you've tried it post your set up and problems and we will try to help. Hot Bodies is discontinuing the 12X so, though it is a good car, parts are getting hard to find. Too bad cause I really like their shock.

How about this.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=ASC4606

Thanks :).

That's the default part, and not very similar....

Google the part number the part is available at many online hobby shops.

rollout
 

how much is the average drop in rollout going to timing?form what i have been hearing it is about 10mm or 5 teeth on the pinion less. is this the "rule of the thumb"?:confused:

I am looking for a few ideas for different tire compounds to try. Our track is very small and tight carpet with lots of grip. It is a 17.5 class.

I have always ran pink rears with DD pink front or purple with good results. They seem to work well with my stiffer setup. Any other suggestions for me to look into.

try lilac fr magenta rear

i race on a track where the grip is high , i use Pink double pink too but was told to use Lilac magenta and wont go back now :D:D

Serpent S120L Rear Shaft
 

Hi,

Has anyone fitted and used this updates shaft from Serpent?

http://serpent.com/product/411250/

I have and cant set the diff to work correctly it is either really tight or way to loose with the slightest bit of ajustment? I have built it up without thrust bearing as they say and just using collar, spring washers and nut.

If anyone could tell me what I am doing wrong or even show me a picture if theirs that would be cool. I'll post a picture of mine when I get home tonight.

Thanks

Keith

Make sure you are using a nylon nut and not an aluminum lock nut. Without the spring washer in there the flex of the nylon becomes your spring. The adjustment is very fine because of not having a spring so it may just be that you are not used to it.

I know this is a very specific long shot but I'm going to ask anyways. Does anyone have a T-bar car setup with a 1s NON-saddle pack LiPo, LRP SPX and a 1s LiPo Rx pack? If so, could you please post a pic for me? I'm struggling with how to lay everything out on my chassis. It's an L4 with the main pack on the right side. Thanks in advance!

the serpent diff uses a belleville washer, a pair actually. they look like washers but they are cupped, they need to be stacked so that there holes are in contact and the outer rings are seperated. (look at the serpent manual again and you will see what i mean0 this should create a spring effect that makes the diff less touchy.

this approach is pretty common, CRC and AE also used belleville washers in their diffs, but just 1.

I don't understand the rush to eliminate the thrust washer. If you use a good one like Corally or Slapmaster, and build it right, it will last nearly forever and it is only a few extra grams of weight. When you tighten a diff cone against the bearing in the hub, you are asking the bearing to do a job it isn't designed for, and guaranteeing you will have to replace it frequently to maintain a smooth diff.