Mike Haynes

iTrader: (2)

Hanulec's mod car has awesome written all over it, do exactly what he says Please just drive better

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

but my stock TC is SO MUCH BETTER (or at least I can drive it better....)

MUDVAYNE

iTrader: (88)

Anyone have any advice on sidebite? I'm looking for some in the low speed corners. The sweeper at the end of the straight seems to be ok for some reason, maybe the spoiler has more downforce on it then (straight is at least 120 feet long). In the infield the car feels loose, and I have 3 degrees of toe. Should I make the link longer, or maybe adjust the wheelbase?

bkspeedo

iTrader: (5)

Try narrowing the rear of the car. Most people have a 1mm shim behind the Rear\Front hing pin holder. Try .5mm shim and adjust the Rear\Rear spacers accordingly.

If this does not work a longer link would be something to try.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

Is it only side bite or is it traction everywhere? When grip outdoors sucks we reduce the number of top deck screws to 4 (rem insides) and loosened the wings or put orings under Tue wings.

If it is really side bite then u need more camber gain. Go to a lower shim on the rear inside camber link or a larger shim on the rear hub. I'd adjust the rear hub first.

You could also play wth adding more rear toe.

zleader_99

iTrader: (20)

What are the advantages of running the longer camber links? I run a temp parking lot track sprayed with sugar water.


I also am planning on running the narrow chassis with duel gear diffs. Are there any good tarmac setups out there for this setup.


Thanks

Ron Goetter

iTrader: (17)

Longer camber links generally give you more overall traction but make the car less responsive.

Dual gear diffs will make the car easier to drive but will not be as fast as spool/gear diff setup.

If you go back a couple pages you'll find the setup I posted which is Larry's Carpet setup with a list of changes that we make to run asphalt.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

OVA

iTrader: (86)

hear ya go

Start with this setup with the fallowing changes 344 front springs, 40 wt oil and 2* front and rear camber. I also run all my top deck and wing screws loose to get more flex out of the car. Been Running this setup at Jackson all year with very good results when the track is both med and high bite.

Light weight arms will also help the car some. I also run a yokomo gear diff w/ 20 weight shocks oil

zleader_99

iTrader: (20)

Thanks for all the help..

bigbank66

iTrader: (2)

Hey Ron.... whats the advantage of the anti squat on the rear arms??? can u explain what the off set do for the handling??? Thanks

bigbank66

iTrader: (2)

An also expalin the angle of the rear arms???

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

The anti-squat helps decrease rear traction, and improve steering. If your track is very low bite then you might want the rear arms level/flat, or to even have some pro-squat (the arms angled the opposite direction)

by angle, do you mean rear toe? the 1mm/3mm combo is just the kit standard. it seems to work well everywhere. in modified racing we have been trying more and less rear toe-in to get the cars to behave better.

Ron Goetter

iTrader: (17)

Anti squat helps with steering going in the corner and also rear traction/drive out of the corner

I'm not sure what you mean by off set?

Again not really sure what your talking about here. Rear toe maybe? If so rear toe gives the car stability and rear traction. However to much toe can actually take traction away.

zleader_99

iTrader: (20)

I am trying to do the optional servo install, the paper work says the xray servo saver works the best. I have the kingshead steering crank and dont want to Danny the Dremel off the arm. I was going to use the orignal arm as another Photon driver sudjested. However I dont have any left.

Is xray servo saver a steering crank? If so does anyone have a part number? Sorry if this has been covered. I am putting a order together and want to sort this out before I submit.