TAMIYA F103 RM
#1801
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
I have seen a lot of different servos, but I ended up using a Futaba 9650. Mostly because I had a spare. It takes a little work to get the location and height correct though. I mounted mine flat to the chassis. If I did it again, I would raise the servo a touch to reduce the bump steer.
Last edited by Jamie Hanson; 07-28-2009 at 09:11 AM.
#1802
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
I have seen a lot of different servos, but I ended up using a Futaba 9650. Mostly because I had a spare. It takes a little work to get the location and height correct though. I mounted mine flat to the chassis. If I did it again, I would raise the servo a touch to reduce the bump steer.
i do however reccomen(HIGHLY) getting the TAMIYA servo saver. i have busted 2 nylon ones, and no one make an alum one fot this application. the tamiya has takes alot of beating.
#1803
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
I have seen a lot of different servos, but I ended up using a Futaba 9650. Mostly because I had a spare. It takes a little work to get the location and height correct though. I mounted mine flat to the chassis. If I did it again, I would raise the servo a touch to reduce the bump steer.
#1804
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
upon searching for my motor mount, i came across this:
[http://www.rcatomic.com/atomic/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/TF-008_install_02.jpg[/IMG]
for $200 you can have a fully hopped up f1 rc. this comes with alum upper arms, knuckles, toe links, castor adjuster, alum motor mount with 3 fans, rear t bar, lower deck, upper deck, hex wheel adapters, upper deck to servo mount bars, titanium screw kit and titanium friction plate. that is alot of hopups for only $200...
http://store.hkshobby.com/product_in...oducts_id=4901
what really caught my eye was the front arms... why would you have them reverse like that?
i really like the lower deck, thicker(3mm as opposed to 2.5) plus its thinner in the front, and has the extra hole for the f1 front wing. im goingt to school for my masters in physics and tone see how this is beneficial from a physical standpoint. the only thing that comes to mind is thier steering knucles are long. this may be positioned to make for that difference in distance. any insights?
[http://www.rcatomic.com/atomic/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/TF-008_install_02.jpg[/IMG]
for $200 you can have a fully hopped up f1 rc. this comes with alum upper arms, knuckles, toe links, castor adjuster, alum motor mount with 3 fans, rear t bar, lower deck, upper deck, hex wheel adapters, upper deck to servo mount bars, titanium screw kit and titanium friction plate. that is alot of hopups for only $200...
http://store.hkshobby.com/product_in...oducts_id=4901
what really caught my eye was the front arms... why would you have them reverse like that?
i really like the lower deck, thicker(3mm as opposed to 2.5) plus its thinner in the front, and has the extra hole for the f1 front wing. im goingt to school for my masters in physics and tone see how this is beneficial from a physical standpoint. the only thing that comes to mind is thier steering knucles are long. this may be positioned to make for that difference in distance. any insights?
#1807
From Hk Forum again !
#1809
#1810
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Moving the turnbuckles wont do anything as far as I am concerned. But it may change the steering linearity if that makes sense. As far as the shock, I would think that running it more horizontally would make the car easier to drive, but my friend told me that running a larger angle will help the car be more stable under throttle/braking... so I am not sure.
#1811
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
Raising and lowering the shock, changes the progression of the spring. When it is using the lower chassis mount, the spring is fairly linear. Raising the shock makes the spring feel softer the more into the shock it gets. This is going to make the car plant and enter into a corner harder, but will make the car a little tighter coming off the turn. A softer spring makes a strong car though sweepers. Too soft and you may get a double steer.
#1812
I have seen a lot of different servos, but I ended up using a Futaba 9650. Mostly because I had a spare. It takes a little work to get the location and height correct though. I mounted mine flat to the chassis. If I did it again, I would raise the servo a touch to reduce the bump steer.
I've had great luck with that servo in my heli and 12th scale and I have one extra to try out. Thanks for the tip.