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Old 03-23-2009, 09:07 PM   #1801
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a servo for these cars?

At least ____ oz. of torque @ ___ sec. ?????

Any help would be appreciated as I just got my F103r together and trying to get the electronics done right.
I have seen a lot of different servos, but I ended up using a Futaba 9650. Mostly because I had a spare. It takes a little work to get the location and height correct though. I mounted mine flat to the chassis. If I did it again, I would raise the servo a touch to reduce the bump steer.
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Old 03-23-2009, 09:21 PM   #1802
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I have seen a lot of different servos, but I ended up using a Futaba 9650. Mostly because I had a spare. It takes a little work to get the location and height correct though. I mounted mine flat to the chassis. If I did it again, I would raise the servo a touch to reduce the bump steer.
i use a standard digital servo from JR. i heard that digital servos use less power, and create more torque and hold stronger than standard. i got it for $35... cant beat it.

i do however reccomen(HIGHLY) getting the TAMIYA servo saver. i have busted 2 nylon ones, and no one make an alum one fot this application. the tamiya has takes alot of beating.
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Old 03-23-2009, 10:25 PM   #1803
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Originally Posted by Jamie Hanson View Post
I have seen a lot of different servos, but I ended up using a Futaba 9650. Mostly because I had a spare. It takes a little work to get the location and height correct though. I mounted mine flat to the chassis. If I did it again, I would raise the servo a touch to reduce the bump steer.
Why dont you mount the ball joints on the backside of the servo saver? Makes it super dialed I also mounted the ball cups on the underside of the steering knuckles too..
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Old 03-24-2009, 07:43 AM   #1804
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upon searching for my motor mount, i came across this:
[http://www.rcatomic.com/atomic/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/TF-008_install_02.jpg[/IMG]

for $200 you can have a fully hopped up f1 rc. this comes with alum upper arms, knuckles, toe links, castor adjuster, alum motor mount with 3 fans, rear t bar, lower deck, upper deck, hex wheel adapters, upper deck to servo mount bars, titanium screw kit and titanium friction plate. that is alot of hopups for only $200...
http://store.hkshobby.com/product_in...oducts_id=4901

what really caught my eye was the front arms... why would you have them reverse like that?

i really like the lower deck, thicker(3mm as opposed to 2.5) plus its thinner in the front, and has the extra hole for the f1 front wing. im goingt to school for my masters in physics and tone see how this is beneficial from a physical standpoint. the only thing that comes to mind is thier steering knucles are long. this may be positioned to make for that difference in distance. any insights?
This chassis conversion is really strange.Its made to turn your F103GT in to a long wheel base F103 for F201 tires,wheels and bodies. If you think about its a different idea that might be good for somebody,who I dont know but its nice to see new ideas.
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Old 03-24-2009, 08:37 AM   #1805
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This chassis conversion is really strange.Its made to turn your F103GT in to a long wheel base F103 for F201 tires,wheels and bodies. If you think about its a different idea that might be good for somebody,who I dont know but its nice to see new ideas.
i didnt notice that much about it... i think the idea is great, jut not using the long t bar as you said. i personally think its a great price, and a VERY stiff chassis.
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Old 03-24-2009, 09:11 AM   #1806
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Why dont you mount the ball joints on the backside of the servo saver? Makes it super dialed I also mounted the ball cups on the underside of the steering knuckles too..

Your right in some regard, I tried this but it created way too much ackerman in the car.
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Old 03-24-2009, 12:52 PM   #1807
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From Hk Forum again !
Attached Thumbnails
TAMIYA F103 RM-20090325_78fd28ee7a7eae9cc5402uuogax3zzjp.jpg   TAMIYA F103 RM-20090325_982b9da40c05f502b6f5i7oij38laqpk.jpg   TAMIYA F103 RM-20090325_a6d354b4b82c441d943dxzqlr5uoqrpj.jpg   TAMIYA F103 RM-20090325_aa431769db57507d762cu1lyopimdciy.jpg   TAMIYA F103 RM-20090325_bf66af721abb665f9508lhr4wwwuwquz.jpg  

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Old 03-25-2009, 09:54 PM   #1808
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From Hk Forum again !
they dont play!!!


i just got the 3 racing "pom spacer" spacer for a "normal" pinion. and it fits the robinson racing normal 48p gears. just an FYI...
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Old 03-25-2009, 10:43 PM   #1809
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How is tweak set on the o-ring t-bar?
I would like to know also?

Also what does moving the turnbuckles to the underside of the front Hub? another thing what does moving the shock up do for handling?
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Old 03-25-2009, 11:15 PM   #1810
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Moving the turnbuckles wont do anything as far as I am concerned. But it may change the steering linearity if that makes sense. As far as the shock, I would think that running it more horizontally would make the car easier to drive, but my friend told me that running a larger angle will help the car be more stable under throttle/braking... so I am not sure.
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Old 03-26-2009, 09:02 AM   #1811
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I would like to know also?

Also what does moving the turnbuckles to the underside of the front Hub? another thing what does moving the shock up do for handling?
If you level out the front turnbuckles on the 103 car, it is going to reduce the bump steer. This normally reduces steering entering into a corner. However, what you loose in bump steer, you might add in ackerman. This also makes the car turn more. These front ends do not compress as much as you think, therefore I feel bump steer is more welcomed than ackerman.

Raising and lowering the shock, changes the progression of the spring. When it is using the lower chassis mount, the spring is fairly linear. Raising the shock makes the spring feel softer the more into the shock it gets. This is going to make the car plant and enter into a corner harder, but will make the car a little tighter coming off the turn. A softer spring makes a strong car though sweepers. Too soft and you may get a double steer.
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Old 03-26-2009, 09:25 AM   #1812
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Originally Posted by Jamie Hanson View Post
I have seen a lot of different servos, but I ended up using a Futaba 9650. Mostly because I had a spare. It takes a little work to get the location and height correct though. I mounted mine flat to the chassis. If I did it again, I would raise the servo a touch to reduce the bump steer.

I've had great luck with that servo in my heli and 12th scale and I have one extra to try out. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 03-26-2009, 09:27 AM   #1813
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Are you guys using the on center front axles or the trailing front axles?
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Old 03-26-2009, 09:31 AM   #1814
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Are you guys using the on center front axles or the trailing front axles?
On Center (inline). I did not know an offset front steering knuckle was made.
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Old 03-26-2009, 09:40 AM   #1815
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On Center (inline). I did not know an offset front steering knuckle was made.
Yes, I believe it is part number 53259 RC F1 3.5mm offset upright. Please correct me if I have this wrong as I find the whole Tamiya parts support thing kind of confusing.
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