Tekin RS ESC sensored
08-27-2009, 12:01 AM
#6526
Hi, I just got a RS (which should arrive tomorrow) I've been doing some reading, for the most part I seem to understand it. But I really just want to know what some of the features do because I've 'boost' 'turbo' and 'timing advance' being mentioned as being different terms.
All I want to do is use a 'turbo' to how the LRP SPX is like, I don't want to change the timing on my motor (currently a LRP 17.5) I already know to change my gearing (going from 3.5 to 4.5) so its not that big of problem. I'll be using the v200 software.
And for some stupid reason I can't join the tekin forum because of spam not being welcome there.
All I want to do is use a 'turbo' to how the LRP SPX is like, I don't want to change the timing on my motor (currently a LRP 17.5) I already know to change my gearing (going from 3.5 to 4.5) so its not that big of problem. I'll be using the v200 software.
And for some stupid reason I can't join the tekin forum because of spam not being welcome there.
08-27-2009, 12:24 AM
#6528
Ok.
Boost is timing that comes in at a set RPM
Turbo is timing that comes in at a set delay
Those two + your motor timing will get you your total timing. So you have a somewhat timing curve.
As far as setting your RS like a SPX, I'm not sure if that will happen. You will be able to set it up to be as fast, if not faster, but they are two different esc's. As far ask I know, people use two profiles on the SPX, 7 and 8. What the difference? I don't know. One is aggressive on timing and the other is more aggressive. As to how they are aggressive, I don't know. It could be more timing, less delay, and/or more aggressive timing curve.
If there is no one at your track who runs the same motor and RS, here is what I can suggest.
Set your FDR for optimal infield speed, then add some boost, and then add some turbo and set your delay properly. Don't forget to check your temps.
Not knowing what your track looks like, I'd say go ahead and set your FDR to 4.5. Unless your track is really long and open, I'd say you might even have to go lighter.
Boost is timing that comes in at a set RPM
Turbo is timing that comes in at a set delay
Those two + your motor timing will get you your total timing. So you have a somewhat timing curve.
As far as setting your RS like a SPX, I'm not sure if that will happen. You will be able to set it up to be as fast, if not faster, but they are two different esc's. As far ask I know, people use two profiles on the SPX, 7 and 8. What the difference? I don't know. One is aggressive on timing and the other is more aggressive. As to how they are aggressive, I don't know. It could be more timing, less delay, and/or more aggressive timing curve.
If there is no one at your track who runs the same motor and RS, here is what I can suggest.
Set your FDR for optimal infield speed, then add some boost, and then add some turbo and set your delay properly. Don't forget to check your temps.
Not knowing what your track looks like, I'd say go ahead and set your FDR to 4.5. Unless your track is really long and open, I'd say you might even have to go lighter.
08-27-2009, 12:27 AM
#6529
OK.
Here's my setup after reading (just to have it here for future reference).
100 Brake
profile 3
15 timing boost
cutoff 3V
BL-FW
everything else zero (including turbo)
See how that goes.
Here's my setup after reading (just to have it here for future reference).
100 Brake
profile 3
15 timing boost
cutoff 3V
BL-FW
everything else zero (including turbo)
See how that goes.
08-27-2009, 12:32 AM
#6530
The second statement in the quote.
Do you mean FDR should be decided only with the timing on the motor (i.e. no timing boost)?
08-27-2009, 12:43 AM
#6531
As far as when boost comes in, we don't know. I couldn't find the post, but tekin(randy) won't tell us. I just remember it being a set RPM.
Yeah, set your FDR for infield speed with what ever timing you have on the motor you find best. Then add a little boost, check your temps. If your getting faster, add a little more boost and check your temps.
This may not be the best way to set your car up, but it worked for me and got me in the ballpark. Don't be afraid to go really light on the gearing. I went from 5.0 to 5.7 with v200 one of the tracks I race at. I would have went lighter, but I needed a bigger spur because my gears wouldn't touch anymore.
Yeah, set your FDR for infield speed with what ever timing you have on the motor you find best. Then add a little boost, check your temps. If your getting faster, add a little more boost and check your temps.
This may not be the best way to set your car up, but it worked for me and got me in the ballpark. Don't be afraid to go really light on the gearing. I went from 5.0 to 5.7 with v200 one of the tracks I race at. I would have went lighter, but I needed a bigger spur because my gears wouldn't touch anymore.
08-27-2009, 12:52 AM
#6532
Final gearing is dependant on infield punch or feel required.
Adjusting boost will help here, depending on the track you would add more boost for more midrange speed and reduce for more punch/accelleration.
This combined with small gearing changes will get you close and then add turbo to make up for lack of speed on the main straight.
To get the sweet spot it will take some practice and numerous tries but is very rewarding
Look at improving your laps times to confirm changes you make and use motor temps as a confirmation that all is good.
Adjusting boost will help here, depending on the track you would add more boost for more midrange speed and reduce for more punch/accelleration.
This combined with small gearing changes will get you close and then add turbo to make up for lack of speed on the main straight.
To get the sweet spot it will take some practice and numerous tries but is very rewarding
Look at improving your laps times to confirm changes you make and use motor temps as a confirmation that all is good.
08-27-2009, 12:56 AM
#6533
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Ok.
Boost is timing that comes in at a set RPM
Turbo is timing that comes in at a set delay
Those two + your motor timing will get you your total timing. So you have a somewhat timing curve.
As far as setting your RS like a SPX, I'm not sure if that will happen. You will be able to set it up to be as fast, if not faster, but they are two different esc's. As far ask I know, people use two profiles on the SPX, 7 and 8. What the difference? I don't know. One is aggressive on timing and the other is more aggressive. As to how they are aggressive, I don't know. It could be more timing, less delay, and/or more aggressive timing curve.
If there is no one at your track who runs the same motor and RS, here is what I can suggest.
Set your FDR for optimal infield speed, then add some boost, and then add some turbo and set your delay properly. Don't forget to check your temps.
Not knowing what your track looks like, I'd say go ahead and set your FDR to 4.5. Unless your track is really long and open, I'd say you might even have to go lighter.
Boost is timing that comes in at a set RPM
Turbo is timing that comes in at a set delay
Those two + your motor timing will get you your total timing. So you have a somewhat timing curve.
As far as setting your RS like a SPX, I'm not sure if that will happen. You will be able to set it up to be as fast, if not faster, but they are two different esc's. As far ask I know, people use two profiles on the SPX, 7 and 8. What the difference? I don't know. One is aggressive on timing and the other is more aggressive. As to how they are aggressive, I don't know. It could be more timing, less delay, and/or more aggressive timing curve.
If there is no one at your track who runs the same motor and RS, here is what I can suggest.
Set your FDR for optimal infield speed, then add some boost, and then add some turbo and set your delay properly. Don't forget to check your temps.
Not knowing what your track looks like, I'd say go ahead and set your FDR to 4.5. Unless your track is really long and open, I'd say you might even have to go lighter.
08-27-2009, 12:57 AM
#6534
As far as when boost comes in, we don't know. I couldn't find the post, but tekin(randy) won't tell us. I just remember it being a set RPM.
Yeah, set your FDR for infield speed with what ever timing you have on the motor you find best. Then add a little boost, check your temps. If your getting faster, add a little more boost and check your temps.
This may not be the best way to set your car up, but it worked for me and got me in the ballpark. Don't be afraid to go really light on the gearing. I went from 5.0 to 5.7 with v200 one of the tracks I race at. I would have went lighter, but I needed a bigger spur because my gears wouldn't touch anymore.
Yeah, set your FDR for infield speed with what ever timing you have on the motor you find best. Then add a little boost, check your temps. If your getting faster, add a little more boost and check your temps.
This may not be the best way to set your car up, but it worked for me and got me in the ballpark. Don't be afraid to go really light on the gearing. I went from 5.0 to 5.7 with v200 one of the tracks I race at. I would have went lighter, but I needed a bigger spur because my gears wouldn't touch anymore.
motor timing-0
esc timing-20
turbo-15
brake 100
push-0
drag bake-0
31.75mm rollout
08-27-2009, 07:10 AM
#6537
the way i set mine up is i run 0 timing on the motor with 20 on the the esc.this is with a 17.5. i then gear it so i have good infield speed with next to no acceleration on the straight.then i add turbo starting with 10 and increasing as needed.i found on our local carpet track the times were the best when the motor was coming off at about 135-145f.now our straight is about 30m and i was using about a 31mm rollout where as with a sp esc i was running about 42mm so a huge difference and the tekin rs improved my times by about a second.below is my set up
motor timing-0
esc timing-20
turbo-15
brake 100
push-0
drag bake-0
31.75mm rollout
motor timing-0
esc timing-20
turbo-15
brake 100
push-0
drag bake-0
31.75mm rollout
A 31mm rollout equates to ~6.3 FDR which is really really lite gearing. Most people I know and what Randy has stated for 17.5, gearing should be around 4.3-4.7. I think you would really see your car come alive if you geared heavier.
08-27-2009, 07:29 AM
#6538
It is going to depend on the track. On one track I race at, I am at 5.7 along with a lot of other 17.5s. Just about everyone at this track has a RS or spx.
08-27-2009, 07:32 AM
#6539
Randy,
Can you get dyno results for the Redline 10.5, 13.5 and 17.5 motors? I'm looking for peak torque and max RPMs. Its called a Redline, we should know where the red line is. A nice graph would be great. Some of the FDR numbers we collectively are coming up with are a little off the wall. It seems these motors like a little more rev and still have a boat load of torque and top end even geared lightly.
Can you get dyno results for the Redline 10.5, 13.5 and 17.5 motors? I'm looking for peak torque and max RPMs. Its called a Redline, we should know where the red line is. A nice graph would be great. Some of the FDR numbers we collectively are coming up with are a little off the wall. It seems these motors like a little more rev and still have a boat load of torque and top end even geared lightly.
08-27-2009, 07:41 AM
#6540
Randy,
Can you get dyno results for the Redline 10.5, 13.5 and 17.5 motors? I'm looking for peak torque and max RPMs. Its called a Redline, we should know where the red line is. A nice graph would be great. Some of the FDR numbers we collectively are coming up with are a little off the wall. It seems these motors like a little more rev and still have a boat load of torque and top end even geared lightly.
Can you get dyno results for the Redline 10.5, 13.5 and 17.5 motors? I'm looking for peak torque and max RPMs. Its called a Redline, we should know where the red line is. A nice graph would be great. Some of the FDR numbers we collectively are coming up with are a little off the wall. It seems these motors like a little more rev and still have a boat load of torque and top end even geared lightly.
I concur.
If I am to find the best gearing I would rather have the torque and power curves than take advice (numbers) for granted. Efficiency and current curves would be nice too. The downside I think would be that not every motor is going to be exactly like the next, so it all depends on how close they would be to the one dynoed.