Tekin RS ESC sensored
08-25-2009, 11:15 PM
#6496
Well, calibration is done. No difference as far as I can tell, but anyway.
08-26-2009, 03:48 AM
#6497
We're are looking into a few new items to add to our product line. I wish I could devulge what we're doing, but can't...
We have our own version of "skunkworks" if you will: Engineers that we feed every now and again, some water here and there. If they're lucky we let them watch some old reruns of wester movies!
This is why guys local to me always ask "why aren't you ever at the track? Or why aren't you at this event?" And of course the answer is " I was testing something I can't show you...I knew you'd be there so I was at this track...
There are products in the works...in time you will see them. There are some shows coming up for just this reason, perhaps something will "show up."
We have our own version of "skunkworks" if you will: Engineers that we feed every now and again, some water here and there. If they're lucky we let them watch some old reruns of wester movies!
This is why guys local to me always ask "why aren't you ever at the track? Or why aren't you at this event?" And of course the answer is " I was testing something I can't show you...I knew you'd be there so I was at this track...
There are products in the works...in time you will see them. There are some shows coming up for just this reason, perhaps something will "show up."
No-one else will be able to keep up
08-26-2009, 05:30 AM
#6498
Your not geared right. I'd actually gear this up with the current setup. The 17.5 class MUST be geared right for speed. Your temps are cool to cold to be honest. If you're missing acceleration you need to get your gearing right.
On this short of a track you should be running around 25-30 total timing between the motor and timing boost. IF you're DUO is on the lowest setting that should be 0 not 10 so make sure.
I'd reccomend the middle hole(10) and your exsisting RS setup. For now leave the gearing but make the motor adjustment. Run the car and see where you're at. If you're still pulling off that cool gear it up.
If your NW is narrow this should affect the nuetral sensitivity, not WOT.
Setting your epa's 10 over or 5 over calibration is something that was done back in the days of non digital radio since you didn't want to run the risk of bumping a trim pot,etc.
As always guys, you talk and we listen. We are dedicated to being the best.
On this short of a track you should be running around 25-30 total timing between the motor and timing boost. IF you're DUO is on the lowest setting that should be 0 not 10 so make sure.
I'd reccomend the middle hole(10) and your exsisting RS setup. For now leave the gearing but make the motor adjustment. Run the car and see where you're at. If you're still pulling off that cool gear it up.
If your NW is narrow this should affect the nuetral sensitivity, not WOT.
Setting your epa's 10 over or 5 over calibration is something that was done back in the days of non digital radio since you didn't want to run the risk of bumping a trim pot,etc.
As always guys, you talk and we listen. We are dedicated to being the best.
). Next time, I am going to try the timing boost at 20 and see what the temps are.Thanks to everyone that offered advice.
08-26-2009, 10:02 AM
#6499
I think I need some help.
Tested the car (Xray T007), REDLINE 21.5, RS pro.
Pinion 22, FDR 6.409, motor didn't get too hot, but only run two laps at a time. Car was very fast.
Changed to pinion 20, FDR 7.1400, motor got hot, I would guess about 65deg C (about 150F) (run about ten laps), car of course slower but better acceleration (which is what I was chasing).
Motor timing 12, ESC timing 15, profile 3, no drag brakes, brake max.
I had advice form someone else running a Kopropo speedo (not sure what motor) that FDR should be in the low 3s. I think that's way too low, but he told me his motor is cold, and he was pretty fast (my car with the 22 pinion was faster though).
If anyone from Tekin reads this, I would appreciate your input. I attached a picture of the track. It's quite crappy but you get the idea.
Tested the car (Xray T007), REDLINE 21.5, RS pro.
Pinion 22, FDR 6.409, motor didn't get too hot, but only run two laps at a time. Car was very fast.
Changed to pinion 20, FDR 7.1400, motor got hot, I would guess about 65deg C (about 150F) (run about ten laps), car of course slower but better acceleration (which is what I was chasing).
Motor timing 12, ESC timing 15, profile 3, no drag brakes, brake max.
I had advice form someone else running a Kopropo speedo (not sure what motor) that FDR should be in the low 3s. I think that's way too low, but he told me his motor is cold, and he was pretty fast (my car with the 22 pinion was faster though).
If anyone from Tekin reads this, I would appreciate your input. I attached a picture of the track. It's quite crappy but you get the idea.
08-26-2009, 10:07 AM
#6500
I think I need some help.
Tested the car (Xray T007), REDLINE 21.5, RS pro.
Pinion 22, FDR 6.409, motor didn't get too hot, but only run two laps at a time. Car was very fast.
Changed to pinion 20, FDR 7.1400, motor got hot (run about ten laps), car of course slower but better acceleration (which is what I was chasing).
Motor timing 12, ESC timing 15, profile 3, no drag brakes, brake max.
I had advice form someone else running a Kopropo speedo (not sure what motor) that FDR should be in the low 3s. I think that's way too low, but he told me his motor is cold, and he was pretty fast (my car with the 22 pinion was faster though).
If anyone from Tekin reads this, I would appreciate your input. I attached a picture of the track. It's quite crappy but you get the idea.
Tested the car (Xray T007), REDLINE 21.5, RS pro.
Pinion 22, FDR 6.409, motor didn't get too hot, but only run two laps at a time. Car was very fast.
Changed to pinion 20, FDR 7.1400, motor got hot (run about ten laps), car of course slower but better acceleration (which is what I was chasing).
Motor timing 12, ESC timing 15, profile 3, no drag brakes, brake max.
I had advice form someone else running a Kopropo speedo (not sure what motor) that FDR should be in the low 3s. I think that's way too low, but he told me his motor is cold, and he was pretty fast (my car with the 22 pinion was faster though).
If anyone from Tekin reads this, I would appreciate your input. I attached a picture of the track. It's quite crappy but you get the idea.
Last edited by Cpt.America; 08-26-2009 at 10:22 AM.
08-26-2009, 10:16 AM
#6501
With a 21.5 you're geared very light. Even for a track that small. The motor got hot because of excessive revving, which will kill the motor in a short time. I would start with 4.5, boost 20 and gear/time up/down depending on temps or lap times. Forget about turbo. You wont see it working on a straight that short. I'm not with tekin though, so take that with a grain of salt yeah 
08-26-2009, 10:46 AM
#6502
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With a 21.5 you're geared very light. Even for a track that small. The motor got hot because of excessive revving, which will kill the motor in a short time. I would start with 4.5, boost 20 and gear/time up/down depending on temps or lap times. Forget about turbo. You wont see it working on a straight that short. I'm not with tekin though, so take that with a grain of salt yeah
08-26-2009, 10:49 AM
#6503
Thank you cyanide, capt'n. I don't have turbo (by the way I use v198, not v200). But if the turbo kicks in at .5 sec, I could use it. The three sides of the track you see in the picture (one is missing towards you, I just couldn't get away from the track enough with my crappy camera to catch that) can be done flat out. I do it in stock (brushed 27 turn) and have absolutely no problem and people do it in mod (brushless), again with no problem.
Back to my problem, it is rather strange to me (first brushless) to have a motor heating from overrevving. But I take your point. Brushed motors spin to their max rpm and can stay there all day long if you undergear them (not that you're going anywhere fast).
Say i would gear it up to something like 4-5. how would I get the punch back then?
Anyone from Tekin want to add something, please?
Back to my problem, it is rather strange to me (first brushless) to have a motor heating from overrevving. But I take your point. Brushed motors spin to their max rpm and can stay there all day long if you undergear them (not that you're going anywhere fast).
Say i would gear it up to something like 4-5. how would I get the punch back then?
Anyone from Tekin want to add something, please?
08-26-2009, 10:56 AM
#6504
On my SP 17.5 and LPF esc i run a 3.8 gear ratio
So i definately think you should be at least geared around 4.5 - 4.0 for a 21.5
From there you can gear up a tooth at a time while watching the lap times.
At the moment it looks like you are overheating the motor by undergearing it.
Undergearing is just as harmfull as over gearing !!!
So i definately think you should be at least geared around 4.5 - 4.0 for a 21.5
From there you can gear up a tooth at a time while watching the lap times.
At the moment it looks like you are overheating the motor by undergearing it.
Undergearing is just as harmfull as over gearing !!!
08-26-2009, 11:03 AM
#6505
Thank you cyanide, capt'n. I don't have turbo (by the way I use v198, not v200). But if the turbo kicks in at .5 sec, I could use it. The three sides of the track you see in the picture (one is missing towards you, I just couldn't get away from the track enough with my crappy camera to catch that) can be done flat out. I do it in stock (brushed 27 turn) and have absolutely no problem and people do it in mod (brushless), again with no problem.
Back to my problem, it is rather strange to me (first brushless) to have a motor heating from overrevving. But I take your point. Brushed motors spin to their max rpm and can stay there all day long if you undergear them (not that you're going anywhere fast).
Say i would gear it up to something like 4-5. how would I get the punch back then?
Anyone from Tekin want to add something, please?
Back to my problem, it is rather strange to me (first brushless) to have a motor heating from overrevving. But I take your point. Brushed motors spin to their max rpm and can stay there all day long if you undergear them (not that you're going anywhere fast).
Say i would gear it up to something like 4-5. how would I get the punch back then?
Anyone from Tekin want to add something, please?
08-26-2009, 11:08 AM
#6507
If you are new to the RS and HotWire, read this post:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/5940355-post4315.html
It should save you some time sifting through old posts on the thread.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/5940355-post4315.html
It should save you some time sifting through old posts on the thread.
thankyou so much.
Last edited by SweepRacingUSA; 08-26-2009 at 11:19 AM.
08-26-2009, 11:19 AM
#6508
I emailed you from my hotmail address. Hopefully it will not block the attachment when you send me v200.
08-26-2009, 02:05 PM
#6510
The guys are right, you can over rev ANY motor and cause too much heat.
With spec motors you really need to gear for all the available torque and then use timing to make up for other sections on the track.
Capt'n is right about the buddy and temping every minute or so. THat is truly ideal if you have support at the track.
Your esc setup is good but I agree, bring your gearing up into the 5.0ish fdr range and work up/down from there. I'd expect gearing up rather than gearing down. Temp is key here. I feel as the others do that you're on the undergeared side of the range.
GEAR IT UP!
With spec motors you really need to gear for all the available torque and then use timing to make up for other sections on the track.
Capt'n is right about the buddy and temping every minute or so. THat is truly ideal if you have support at the track.
Your esc setup is good but I agree, bring your gearing up into the 5.0ish fdr range and work up/down from there. I'd expect gearing up rather than gearing down. Temp is key here. I feel as the others do that you're on the undergeared side of the range.
GEAR IT UP!