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Old 08-26-2009, 12:15 AM   #6496
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Well, calibration is done. No difference as far as I can tell, but anyway.
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Old 08-26-2009, 04:48 AM   #6497
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We're are looking into a few new items to add to our product line. I wish I could devulge what we're doing, but can't...

We have our own version of "skunkworks" if you will: Engineers that we feed every now and again, some water here and there. If they're lucky we let them watch some old reruns of wester movies!

This is why guys local to me always ask "why aren't you ever at the track? Or why aren't you at this event?" And of course the answer is " I was testing something I can't show you...I knew you'd be there so I was at this track...

There are products in the works...in time you will see them. There are some shows coming up for just this reason, perhaps something will "show up."
SR-71 version of firmware for RS Pro = Mach 3.5 ???

No-one else will be able to keep up
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Old 08-26-2009, 06:30 AM   #6498
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Your not geared right. I'd actually gear this up with the current setup. The 17.5 class MUST be geared right for speed. Your temps are cool to cold to be honest. If you're missing acceleration you need to get your gearing right.

On this short of a track you should be running around 25-30 total timing between the motor and timing boost. IF you're DUO is on the lowest setting that should be 0 not 10 so make sure.

I'd reccomend the middle hole(10) and your exsisting RS setup. For now leave the gearing but make the motor adjustment. Run the car and see where you're at. If you're still pulling off that cool gear it up.

If your NW is narrow this should affect the nuetral sensitivity, not WOT.

Setting your epa's 10 over or 5 over calibration is something that was done back in the days of non digital radio since you didn't want to run the risk of bumping a trim pot,etc.

As always guys, you talk and we listen. We are dedicated to being the best.
I moved the timing to the middle hole and left the RS setup alone. The car did have more punch coming out of the corners. I did bump the timing up to 25 (thinking I should back it down to 20) and the motor was 160* in the first qualifier, 164* in the second and third qual and 168* (a little warm?) in the main. I think it needs to be tweaked just a little but it is much better than it was. I don't feel like I am getting beat out of the corners (at least as far as non-driver related issues). Next time, I am going to try the timing boost at 20 and see what the temps are.

Thanks to everyone that offered advice.
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Old 08-26-2009, 11:02 AM   #6499
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I think I need some help.

Tested the car (Xray T007), REDLINE 21.5, RS pro.

Pinion 22, FDR 6.409, motor didn't get too hot, but only run two laps at a time. Car was very fast.

Changed to pinion 20, FDR 7.1400, motor got hot, I would guess about 65deg C (about 150F) (run about ten laps), car of course slower but better acceleration (which is what I was chasing).

Motor timing 12, ESC timing 15, profile 3, no drag brakes, brake max.

I had advice form someone else running a Kopropo speedo (not sure what motor) that FDR should be in the low 3s. I think that's way too low, but he told me his motor is cold, and he was pretty fast (my car with the 22 pinion was faster though).

If anyone from Tekin reads this, I would appreciate your input. I attached a picture of the track. It's quite crappy but you get the idea.
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Old 08-26-2009, 11:07 AM   #6500
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I think I need some help.

Tested the car (Xray T007), REDLINE 21.5, RS pro.

Pinion 22, FDR 6.409, motor didn't get too hot, but only run two laps at a time. Car was very fast.

Changed to pinion 20, FDR 7.1400, motor got hot (run about ten laps), car of course slower but better acceleration (which is what I was chasing).

Motor timing 12, ESC timing 15, profile 3, no drag brakes, brake max.

I had advice form someone else running a Kopropo speedo (not sure what motor) that FDR should be in the low 3s. I think that's way too low, but he told me his motor is cold, and he was pretty fast (my car with the 22 pinion was faster though).

If anyone from Tekin reads this, I would appreciate your input. I attached a picture of the track. It's quite crappy but you get the idea.
You can overheat your motor by undergearing it as well. 7.14 is geared WAY too short in my opinion. I would try something closer to 5.5. Run the car how you would in a race, for 3 minutes, and temp it. Heck... grab a buddy and put him track side, and have him temp your car every minute up to the 6th minute. You just pull up, he temps the motor, and drops you right back on the track.
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 08-26-2009 at 11:22 AM.
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Old 08-26-2009, 11:16 AM   #6501
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With a 21.5 you're geared very light. Even for a track that small. The motor got hot because of excessive revving, which will kill the motor in a short time. I would start with 4.5, boost 20 and gear/time up/down depending on temps or lap times. Forget about turbo. You wont see it working on a straight that short. I'm not with tekin though, so take that with a grain of salt yeah
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Old 08-26-2009, 11:46 AM   #6502
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With a 21.5 you're geared very light. Even for a track that small. The motor got hot because of excessive revving, which will kill the motor in a short time. I would start with 4.5, boost 20 and gear/time up/down depending on temps or lap times. Forget about turbo. You wont see it working on a straight that short. I'm not with tekin though, so take that with a grain of salt yeah
on a track that small granted with a 13.5 @ 5.76 gearing i do get boost out of it on the straightaway. it is all in gearing and timing. motor temp was at 154 deg after a 6 min. race. i might drop to a 5.6 ish next time out the try out. with 17.5 or 21.5 gering is much lower 4.0-4.5 range. on that track 4.7-5.0 tould be good. jeremy
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Old 08-26-2009, 11:49 AM   #6503
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Thank you cyanide, capt'n. I don't have turbo (by the way I use v198, not v200). But if the turbo kicks in at .5 sec, I could use it. The three sides of the track you see in the picture (one is missing towards you, I just couldn't get away from the track enough with my crappy camera to catch that) can be done flat out. I do it in stock (brushed 27 turn) and have absolutely no problem and people do it in mod (brushless), again with no problem.

Back to my problem, it is rather strange to me (first brushless) to have a motor heating from overrevving. But I take your point. Brushed motors spin to their max rpm and can stay there all day long if you undergear them (not that you're going anywhere fast).

Say i would gear it up to something like 4-5. how would I get the punch back then?

Anyone from Tekin want to add something, please?
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Old 08-26-2009, 11:56 AM   #6504
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On my SP 17.5 and LPF esc i run a 3.8 gear ratio
So i definately think you should be at least geared around 4.5 - 4.0 for a 21.5
From there you can gear up a tooth at a time while watching the lap times.
At the moment it looks like you are overheating the motor by undergearing it.
Undergearing is just as harmfull as over gearing !!!
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Old 08-26-2009, 12:03 PM   #6505
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Thank you cyanide, capt'n. I don't have turbo (by the way I use v198, not v200). But if the turbo kicks in at .5 sec, I could use it. The three sides of the track you see in the picture (one is missing towards you, I just couldn't get away from the track enough with my crappy camera to catch that) can be done flat out. I do it in stock (brushed 27 turn) and have absolutely no problem and people do it in mod (brushless), again with no problem.

Back to my problem, it is rather strange to me (first brushless) to have a motor heating from overrevving. But I take your point. Brushed motors spin to their max rpm and can stay there all day long if you undergear them (not that you're going anywhere fast).

Say i would gear it up to something like 4-5. how would I get the punch back then?

Anyone from Tekin want to add something, please?
Going to the lower fdr everyone is recommending will produce more punch as you keep the motor in the lower rpms where electric motors make the most torque. Also, free revving a motor builds up heat at a considerable rate compared to a properly loaded motor. There was a reason you were supposed to put a on brushed motors when breaking them in such as a fan. If you are looking for the most punch possible email me at [email protected] so you can take advantage of turbo to maintain your top end but lower your boost timing for more infield punch.
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Old 08-26-2009, 12:06 PM   #6506
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Thank you cyanide, capt'n. I don't have turbo (by the way I use v198, not v200). But if the turbo kicks in at .5 sec, I could use it.
The turbo STARTS to ramp up the timing in .5 seconds, but you dont' actually see it till around 1.5 seconds, maybe 2.
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Old 08-26-2009, 12:08 PM   #6507
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If you are new to the RS and HotWire, read this post:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/5940355-post4315.html

It should save you some time sifting through old posts on the thread.
I finally found what I been looking for, I'll called that " Tekin Rs for Dummies"


thankyou so much.

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Old 08-26-2009, 12:19 PM   #6508
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I emailed you from my hotmail address. Hopefully it will not block the attachment when you send me v200.
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Old 08-26-2009, 12:36 PM   #6509
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I emailed you from my hotmail address. Hopefully it will not block the attachment when you send me v200.
hotmail shouldn't be a problem as gmail is the one notorious for blocking attachments. I am sending the email so let me know if it doesn't make it within 15 minutes or so.
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Old 08-26-2009, 03:05 PM   #6510
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The guys are right, you can over rev ANY motor and cause too much heat.

With spec motors you really need to gear for all the available torque and then use timing to make up for other sections on the track.

Capt'n is right about the buddy and temping every minute or so. THat is truly ideal if you have support at the track.

Your esc setup is good but I agree, bring your gearing up into the 5.0ish fdr range and work up/down from there. I'd expect gearing up rather than gearing down. Temp is key here. I feel as the others do that you're on the undergeared side of the range.

GEAR IT UP!
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