MAD916

Hey Randy: Sent ya an e-mail with a weekend update. The mods and the software update we did at Reedy worked great, it was a hot weekend with 140 track temps and had only 3 to 4 LED's after 6min run in Mod GT with good rip.

Guys the wait on the software will be worth it, and the support from Tekin both at the track and in the Cyber world are first class.

Thanks again

Mark

TZR

MoGGo

Hey Randy, what time shall I pick you up from the airport so you can help me at West London next weekend?

Con

You better gear down 2 or more teeth,That with give you your grunt out of the corners back and get the motor temp down. With 30d boost I'll bet your top speed won't suffer any

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Gear up two teath on the pinion??? That would only make you come off the track at 200+ degrees. It would look to me like you are geared a bit high and might need to come DOWN a couple teeth on your pinion. I too run an RSpro, 17.5 redline, on a medium/large outdoor track, 0 timing on motor, 30(max) on timing boost, and my FDR is 4.7. I have plenty of rip, and my backstraight speed is fast.

Try gearing down to 4.5 or so... and check temps. My car geared at 4.7 comes off at about 160 degrees.

home13oy75

iTrader: (11)

I'll try a FDR of 4.5 ... thanks for the advice guys.

GasGod

iTrader: (4)

I just got an RS- loaded w/ 1.89 Max boost.What do you do if you cant adj. the timing back to zero?I am running a 17.5 lrp stockspec and see no timing marks on the can or endbell.Do I have to have someone lower the speedo?I am at 4.23 fdr now and the temps >3min are 160-I dont want to fry this motor as I already fried a pulse(I know but it ran good on a losi speedo b/4 for 3 wks).The pulse had 5 deg in the motor.Also after about 3 min. it seems to slow down a tad is this a thermal issue?Should I gear down more?Sorry for all the ?? but I am kinda a noob on B/L stuff. I used all tekin stuff "back in the day".

mikky32

I drive a LRP x11 10,5T
I use 18 to 23 boost
works great.

GasGod

iTrader: (4)

So I should have someone w/a hotwire lower the boost then?

BagofSkill

Guys, looking for a little reality check....

I race rubber tyres touring cars with the RS PRO (1.94) and a SP13.5 + Li-Po. The track is 20m x 10m, that's 66ft x 33ft, just smaller than a basketball court. see picture below. Lap times are 10.5 seconds.

I've been running 25 boost and 35.76mm (1.41in) rollout. It's been good but this week for the first tim I got beaten for speed by a guy with a GM 120.

I dropped the rollout and picked boost up to 30, and picked up a bit of speed but also a bit of heat. Didn't get the chance to re-gear to bring the temp down though.

But I want to check if I'm in the ballpark for this size track or should I be dropping back on timing and gearing up?

By way of comparisson I used to gear a Novak GTB and SS 13.5 at 40.87mm (
1.61in) and that always ran well.

Any one got a suggestion?

over gear

iTrader: (18)

problem with my RS. all the leds are lightly dim and the motor is not running. it's a LRP 17.5. when i removed the sensor cable, it works... i tried a brand new sensor cable... the motor will not run... all the leds stay lightly on. What's happening?

lore

Hi Guys,

I am planning to run my touring car on mod class (with a 5.5 brushless) in an upcoming race. I normally run 10.5, and i love my speedo. i would like to have some clarification:

In my RS PRO should i use double capacitor and a fan on the post or is not necessary??

If the second capacitor is needed could i use only one capacitor but bigger instead, for example the TT3522, 1000 uf?

Thanks for the great products and the fantastic customer service.

Lorenzo

Skitee

Maybe that's a problem with the actual sensor board in the motor, do the led's go off or change at all if you change the rotor position.

mikky32

yes lower the boost to 18 and gear heavier.
You will have more acceleration and speed.
also an other motor will give you some more speed.

Here the GM's are slower on smaller tracks. They can't keep up the pace in the infield. The Tekin is there a lot faster.

MAD916

you will want to run a fan on the ESC if you are running MOD, also the 2 caps will help, rather than a single large one. (lower IR and faster revcovery). the fan on the post help, but the majority of te heat is from the FET which are located in the bottom of the case. I have a modified install where the speedo is on it's side.

running in Dual mode instead of sensored only will also help keep speedo temps down.

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

How did you get the boost to max in the first place? Someone else do it?

Yes, you need to lower boost. It's not something just to set to "max". With that LRP's fixed 12° or so of timing you boost should be about 18° to start and watch temps. I think you'll find your FDR is about right after that.