WOW,

I got the idea Solara lol !!,

I will just order couple pinions and spurs to wait for my car.

The cooling solution i was using on my Cyclone was this one from Novak, so as a start i will keep it and try it :



Thanks for all !!

cya,

Pato Concha
Chile - Southamerica

Man ! look at all the extra electronics everywhere on that thing . are you a packaging engineer?

Hey there!
I've got some questions. I just got an E4FS, and need help setting it up! I'm racing 13.5 onroad, asphalt..(parking lot) I got no instructions, with the chassis...so REALLY need some advice, lol. Shock settings...mounting locations...weight/oil...caster/camber settings...all of that good stuff. I bought this, hoping for a good balanced car, like the JRXS...but wanting to fit a 5000lipo, in the belly. (The Losi is just too small) Anybody help????
Thanks...
TTP

Again, he is friend of mine and BUILDING MODLE is his hobby...you have to see how he CA all of my carbon fiber, round edge all the parts, CA in layer like 3-4 times with black marker sealing. Thats why he hardly ran his cars, mostly it is for display at our shop over @ HK.

I called it a ComED edition for a reason....

John can help you with setup....I used his outdoor setup but only using Tamiya Shocks with Xray springs and running on 17.5...using RP30 tires, work out great. I have also try the stock setup which is OK for parking lot track.

Here are the instruction, stock setup for E4RS, E4FS is 99% similar except it used thicker chassis and different tooth in pulleys.

http://www.rcmanufactory.com/

Instruction here...

http://www.rcstudy.com/TM//E4RS-manual.pdf

That set up should do you nicely! Its near the end of the PDF in the instructions.
I'm running 2 deg. camber all the way around, -1.0 toe out per side in the front, 2.5 rear toe, and the K factory #27 AND #22 f/r spring. Mounting and roll center as in set up sheet .
Note that you may want to add 1mm shim to the inner and outer camber link to keep the linkage from crashing the uprights in the rear. My car drives sooo nice. I had to add shims under every upper deck mount and add one to the outer link in the steering so that I could use my REEDY 5000 35c pack. But its soooo nice !

Finally got to run my E4Rs last friday, unfortunately the midshaft inner bearing locked up right before the first race and I did not have another on hand. I put Marcos's setup in the car and it was hooked and plenty fast. I was so shocked how well the car handled asI have not had much luck lately racing!!

Hey guys, just a quick question about freeing up the drive train a little. Heard somewhere about soaking the belts in WD40, but then I've heard not to soak them at all? Any help appreciated.

Dan

Wolf Hobbies posted about not soaking the belts. They posted to soak the bearings in denatured alcohol for a few hours and then spray them off. Relube with lite bearing oil and that will really help with freeing up the car. I don't think his post is more than a few pages back on this thread.

Here is their post from Wolf Hobbies. Its on page 148 of this thread.

As most of you know we had a great result at the Reedy Race. We have to say that we are overjoyed with Dave's driving and how far we have been able to develop the car in the last year. Also as you may know we get zero assistance in our race program from TM so it has been difficult to share all the info with all the racers. We will be posting on RC Tech and other forums to get everyone up to speed (pun intended).

E4 speed secrets part 1:

There has been a lot of discussion about freeing up the drive train. Most people point a finger at the belts. We have tested every belt we can find and are working with a manufacturer to make some special belts. Until then we can say that the stock belts work very well if they are adjusted properly. We can also say that the belts are not the problem. The problem is with the bearings more specifically the grease used by the factory and the quantity. We have developed a treatment for the bearings that really makes a difference:

We recommend that you soak the bearings in denatured alcohol for 4 to 6 hours. Denatured alcohol is highly flammable!!! Use with appropriate caution.
Do not substitute any other type of alcohol, as other types of alcohol are not an effective solvent for the grease that Team Magic uses in the bearings. Additionally, most types of alcohol will absorb moisture from the air, and will cause the bearings to rust. After soaking gently blow out the bearings with low pressure clean dry air to remove the alcohol and dissolved grease. Repeating this process is a normal part of maintaining the car between races. No oil is required the first time the bearings are cleaned, but it will be necessary to re-oil the bearings on subsequent cleanings. This single step is creates an amazing performance increase. Once the car is back together it is critical to adjust the belts properly. The easiest way is to set the trim on your transmitter so that the car is running at about 20% throttle. Tighten the tensioner until you hear the motor slow down. At that point you know that the belts are too tight and back off until you hear everything running free. We did this test with a tachometer reading the spur gear rpm and saw how dramatic the speed of the car drops when the belts are too tight. Just so that it is clear. The problem is not with belt drag. It is friction on the bearings. If you still have a problem with the side belt slipping it can be cured with our P/N WH10117. This fixes a design flaw in the kit and not only fixes belt slipping but makes the car solid under hard braking. One final word on WD-40. Don't use it on the belts or bearings. It seems like thin oil but it has two components. One is a light and very volatile oil solvent and once that evaporates it leave a gooey film on the bearings that creates a lot of drag. Using it on the belts might give you the feeling that you are making them more compliant but you are also making the teeth on the belt soft which leads to slipping which makes you tighten the tensioner which makes the car slower than leaving the belt dry.

ok, thanks.

As far as dentured alcohol goes, is it the same stuff as isopropyl alcohol? I can get it from work that way and save myself some coin

No they are different. Dentured alcohol is very cheap here in the states. For the size bottle you will need its about 2 to 3 dollars so expense wise its very cheap.

Isopropyl Alcohol is only 10% by volume or 20 proof.
Denatured Alcohol is 100% by volume (no water) and is far more powerful than the topical medicinal stuff. I got a quart for $8 and the gallon was $18.

I think are local Wally World has is fairly cheap for the small bottles. Even 8 bucks isn't too bad as you can clean tons of bearings for the price on one bottle.

Thanks for the the differance on the alcohol. I knew they where different but wasn't 100% sure how they where different. Nice to know.

I used electroclean for cleaning the bearings.
Works like a charm
Leave's no residue at all and degreases perfectly.
Then some TSL in the bearings and they spin perfectly free


greets Roy