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Old 07-08-2009, 10:46 PM   #2236
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WOW,

I got the idea Solara lol !!,

I will just order couple pinions and spurs to wait for my car.

The cooling solution i was using on my Cyclone was this one from Novak, so as a start i will keep it and try it :



Thanks for all !!

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Old 07-08-2009, 10:50 PM   #2237
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Originally Posted by Solara View Post
Before you go crazy about which heat sink and fan or fans you want to use...I don't want to disappoint you, E4RS does not allow TOO MUCH of room for you to mount the heat sink and fan, you can only mount the heat sink/fan pointing straight UP position, not to mention, hope your heat sink is not the full length type cause it will rub the rear little pulley.

The best heat sink to fit on E4RS is the K-Factory duo fan unit...HOWEVER, if you are using brushless motor (which you are)...your 3 wires, has to solder toward the REAR side of the motor instead of the shaft side like you used to do on your cyclone...

Get the car, mount your motor, and you will immediately realized what I was talking about...

I have not yet using any heat sink or fan to cool down my 17.5 E4RS...kinda good cause I want to see the actual temperature reading of the motor and I can push it to the limit. With a fan and heat sink...I might be able to gear 1 or 2 tooth more, but probably won't make too much of a different.

Awhile ago my friend did this to his E4RS just to hang it on the wall....I called it a ComEd edition E4RS...how many fans, plugs and wires can you found in this E4RS...? LOL
























Man ! look at all the extra electronics everywhere on that thing . are you a packaging engineer?
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Old 07-09-2009, 06:55 AM   #2238
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Originally Posted by Solara View Post
Don't waste your time/money on the GTB speedo and Novak 13.5 (unless they are exisitng and you are on budget)...I mean, if you are getting a sponcorship deal for the E4, you might as well have them to hook you up with a competition speedo and motor. Your choice like Speed Passion GT2, Tekin, KO, LRP....those are the top list for your speedo choice. Brushless motor like the old Trinity DUO (may be the Duo 2 if you dare to try), Tekin, LPR are also better then the good old Novak 13.5.

About your final drive...even with these motor, for outdoor, lets start at around 4.8 to 5 and check the temperature of the motor. Checking temperature of the brushless motor especially on E4 is a major factor. Because of the battery location (front in front of the motor), and it is different then the typical belt car like your previous owned Cyclone (on the side and do not have the battery blocking AIR to cool the motor)...I found the motor on E4 is a little bit higher then my Mi3.5 (compare to the same gearing)...so if I gear my Mi3.5 to 4.8....due to the motor temp, I will ended up gearing my E4 to 4.9....but again, I use the temp of the motor to dictate my final drive...not the speed of the car, unless you are willing to risk overheating the motor or speedo.

I prefer using BULLET plug type of LIPO...alot easier then those with the deans plug coming out from the top or the side of the battery, easier to fit inside the E4 due to its design.
Hey there!
I've got some questions. I just got an E4FS, and need help setting it up! I'm racing 13.5 onroad, asphalt..(parking lot) I got no instructions, with the chassis...so REALLY need some advice, lol. Shock settings...mounting locations...weight/oil...caster/camber settings...all of that good stuff. I bought this, hoping for a good balanced car, like the JRXS...but wanting to fit a 5000lipo, in the belly. (The Losi is just too small) Anybody help????
Thanks...
TTP
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Old 07-09-2009, 08:52 AM   #2239
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Man ! look at all the extra electronics everywhere on that thing . are you a packaging engineer?
Again, he is friend of mine and BUILDING MODLE is his hobby...you have to see how he CA all of my carbon fiber, round edge all the parts, CA in layer like 3-4 times with black marker sealing. Thats why he hardly ran his cars, mostly it is for display at our shop over @ HK.

I called it a ComED edition for a reason....
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Old 07-09-2009, 08:59 AM   #2240
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Hey there!
I've got some questions. I just got an E4FS, and need help setting it up! I'm racing 13.5 onroad, asphalt..(parking lot) I got no instructions, with the chassis...so REALLY need some advice, lol. Shock settings...mounting locations...weight/oil...caster/camber settings...all of that good stuff. I bought this, hoping for a good balanced car, like the JRXS...but wanting to fit a 5000lipo, in the belly. (The Losi is just too small) Anybody help????
Thanks...
TTP
John can help you with setup....I used his outdoor setup but only using Tamiya Shocks with Xray springs and running on 17.5...using RP30 tires, work out great. I have also try the stock setup which is OK for parking lot track.

Here are the instruction, stock setup for E4RS, E4FS is 99% similar except it used thicker chassis and different tooth in pulleys.

http://www.rcmanufactory.com/

Instruction here...

http://www.rcstudy.com/TM//E4RS-manual.pdf
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Old 07-09-2009, 10:01 AM   #2241
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Originally Posted by Solara View Post
John can help you with setup....I used his outdoor setup but only using Tamiya Shocks with Xray springs and running on 17.5...using RP30 tires, work out great. I have also try the stock setup which is OK for parking lot track.

Here are the instruction, stock setup for E4RS, E4FS is 99% similar except it used thicker chassis and different tooth in pulleys.

http://www.rcmanufactory.com/

Instruction here...

http://www.rcstudy.com/TM//E4RS-manual.pdf
That set up should do you nicely! Its near the end of the PDF in the instructions.
I'm running 2 deg. camber all the way around, -1.0 toe out per side in the front, 2.5 rear toe, and the K factory #27 AND #22 f/r spring. Mounting and roll center as in set up sheet .
Note that you may want to add 1mm shim to the inner and outer camber link to keep the linkage from crashing the uprights in the rear. My car drives sooo nice. I had to add shims under every upper deck mount and add one to the outer link in the steering so that I could use my REEDY 5000 35c pack. But its soooo nice !
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Last edited by John St.Amant; 07-14-2009 at 09:58 AM.
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Old 07-13-2009, 07:53 PM   #2242
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Finally got to run my E4Rs last friday, unfortunately the midshaft inner bearing locked up right before the first race and I did not have another on hand. I put Marcos's setup in the car and it was hooked and plenty fast. I was so shocked how well the car handled asI have not had much luck lately racing!!
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Old 07-13-2009, 11:49 PM   #2243
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Hey guys, just a quick question about freeing up the drive train a little. Heard somewhere about soaking the belts in WD40, but then I've heard not to soak them at all? Any help appreciated.

Dan
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Old 07-14-2009, 12:57 AM   #2244
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Originally Posted by $$$... View Post
Hey guys, just a quick question about freeing up the drive train a little. Heard somewhere about soaking the belts in WD40, but then I've heard not to soak them at all? Any help appreciated.

Dan
Wolf Hobbies posted about not soaking the belts. They posted to soak the bearings in denatured alcohol for a few hours and then spray them off. Relube with lite bearing oil and that will really help with freeing up the car. I don't think his post is more than a few pages back on this thread.

Here is their post from Wolf Hobbies. Its on page 148 of this thread.

As most of you know we had a great result at the Reedy Race. We have to say that we are overjoyed with Dave's driving and how far we have been able to develop the car in the last year. Also as you may know we get zero assistance in our race program from TM so it has been difficult to share all the info with all the racers. We will be posting on RC Tech and other forums to get everyone up to speed (pun intended).

E4 speed secrets part 1:

There has been a lot of discussion about freeing up the drive train. Most people point a finger at the belts. We have tested every belt we can find and are working with a manufacturer to make some special belts. Until then we can say that the stock belts work very well if they are adjusted properly. We can also say that the belts are not the problem. The problem is with the bearings more specifically the grease used by the factory and the quantity. We have developed a treatment for the bearings that really makes a difference:

We recommend that you soak the bearings in denatured alcohol for 4 to 6 hours. Denatured alcohol is highly flammable!!! Use with appropriate caution.
Do not substitute any other type of alcohol, as other types of alcohol are not an effective solvent for the grease that Team Magic uses in the bearings. Additionally, most types of alcohol will absorb moisture from the air, and will cause the bearings to rust. After soaking gently blow out the bearings with low pressure clean dry air to remove the alcohol and dissolved grease. Repeating this process is a normal part of maintaining the car between races. No oil is required the first time the bearings are cleaned, but it will be necessary to re-oil the bearings on subsequent cleanings. This single step is creates an amazing performance increase. Once the car is back together it is critical to adjust the belts properly. The easiest way is to set the trim on your transmitter so that the car is running at about 20% throttle. Tighten the tensioner until you hear the motor slow down. At that point you know that the belts are too tight and back off until you hear everything running free. We did this test with a tachometer reading the spur gear rpm and saw how dramatic the speed of the car drops when the belts are too tight. Just so that it is clear. The problem is not with belt drag. It is friction on the bearings. If you still have a problem with the side belt slipping it can be cured with our P/N WH10117. This fixes a design flaw in the kit and not only fixes belt slipping but makes the car solid under hard braking. One final word on WD-40. Don't use it on the belts or bearings. It seems like thin oil but it has two components. One is a light and very volatile oil solvent and once that evaporates it leave a gooey film on the bearings that creates a lot of drag. Using it on the belts might give you the feeling that you are making them more compliant but you are also making the teeth on the belt soft which leads to slipping which makes you tighten the tensioner which makes the car slower than leaving the belt dry.
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Old 07-14-2009, 07:35 AM   #2245
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ok, thanks.

As far as dentured alcohol goes, is it the same stuff as isopropyl alcohol? I can get it from work that way and save myself some coin
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Old 07-14-2009, 10:02 AM   #2246
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ok, thanks.

As far as dentured alcohol goes, is it the same stuff as isopropyl alcohol? I can get it from work that way and save myself some coin
No they are different. Dentured alcohol is very cheap here in the states. For the size bottle you will need its about 2 to 3 dollars so expense wise its very cheap.
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Old 07-14-2009, 10:07 AM   #2247
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No they are different. Dentured alcohol is very cheap here in the states. For the size bottle you will need its about 2 to 3 dollars so expense wise its very cheap.
Isopropyl Alcohol is only 10% by volume or 20 proof.
Denatured Alcohol is 100% by volume (no water) and is far more powerful than the topical medicinal stuff. I got a quart for $8 and the gallon was $18.
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Old 07-14-2009, 10:12 AM   #2248
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Isopropyl Alcohol is only 10% by volume or 20 proof.
Denatured Alcohol is 100% by volume (no water) and is far more powerful than the topical medicinal stuff. I got a quart for $8 and the gallon was $18.
I think are local Wally World has is fairly cheap for the small bottles. Even 8 bucks isn't too bad as you can clean tons of bearings for the price on one bottle.

Thanks for the the differance on the alcohol. I knew they where different but wasn't 100% sure how they where different. Nice to know.
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Old 07-14-2009, 10:16 AM   #2249
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I used electroclean for cleaning the bearings.
Works like a charm
Leave's no residue at all and degreases perfectly.
Then some TSL in the bearings and they spin perfectly free


greets Roy
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Old 07-14-2009, 10:21 AM   #2250
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I think are local Wally World has is fairly cheap for the small bottles. Even 8 bucks isn't too bad as you can clean tons of bearings for the price on one bottle.

Thanks for the the differance on the alcohol. I knew they where different but wasn't 100% sure how they where different. Nice to know.
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