288LikesTamiya mini cooper
08-30-2015, 03:51 PM
I like the technical discussions. Some like bug bodies. To each his own. Don't like a topic, skim over it.
08-30-2015, 05:03 PM
08-30-2015, 07:12 PM
Had some new ones whittled out of carbon fiber.
Last edited by monkeyracing; 08-12-2017 at 07:34 PM.
08-30-2015, 07:59 PM
08-30-2015, 08:55 PM
2mm carbon plate, supplied by the guy with the talent and equipment to make them for me. Thinking about having the whole chassis done.
08-31-2015, 03:47 AM
That's cool. 
08-31-2015, 01:03 PM
deleted
Last edited by sakadachi; 08-31-2015 at 03:58 PM.
08-31-2015, 05:56 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (16)
Hey Guys, Can anyone explain the huge price variance between vendors for Tamiya p/n 84407? (Black ver.II alum set). I have seen them range from $65-$120. Seems like a lot of the lower price ones are comnig from Hong Kong,and the higher end are comnig from Japanand US vendors. Are the HK vendors legit?
08-31-2015, 06:49 PM
Hey Guys, Can anyone explain the huge price variance between vendors for Tamiya p/n 84407? (Black ver.II alum set). I have seen them range from $65-$120. Seems like a lot of the lower price ones are comnig from Hong Kong,and the higher end are comnig from Japanand US vendors. Are the HK vendors legit?
Most of the HK Operations are legit
Just takes time to get the stuff stateside from there.
BTW You should have came to Mega Mini Madness
It was a Blast!!!
08-31-2015, 06:58 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (16)
I wanted to go but had some things I really needed to do around the house first!
08-31-2015, 07:09 PM
You should look at Banzai Hobby. (Japan) $60US, and cheaper shipping than the HK vendors.
09-01-2015, 12:12 AM
I have found stella hobbies very good for service and delivery. I get most of my mini parts from there or Rdvtg-hobbies on ebay.
Regarding the Xevo, depends on whether you have the Version 1 car or version 2. After the weekend I must say I am very happy with my TOP Sabre FD car. Custom made lexan gear covers, lots of lead ballast and off you go.
Very precise and easy to drive hard.
Anyway, that's for another thread this is about the Tamiya mini.
Later,
50 Cal
Regarding the Xevo, depends on whether you have the Version 1 car or version 2. After the weekend I must say I am very happy with my TOP Sabre FD car. Custom made lexan gear covers, lots of lead ballast and off you go.
Very precise and easy to drive hard.
Anyway, that's for another thread this is about the Tamiya mini.
Later,
50 Cal
09-01-2015, 04:44 AM
I second Rdvtg on eBay. Good seller in Japan for hard to find parts.
As for TOPRacing in the USA, I buy direct from Michael these days for kits and parts.
He is very good. Just send him an email. I too love my Sabre mini's.
As for TOPRacing in the USA, I buy direct from Michael these days for kits and parts.
He is very good. Just send him an email. I too love my Sabre mini's.
09-01-2015, 07:25 AM
Thing is the link is not 90 deg on the steering bellcrank side. Maybe someone has the inclination to test with a protractor on both ideas and see which one is better.
i.e. a 30 deg movement left right on servo = 30 deg movement left right on steering bellcrank
For me, with link 90 deg to servo horn, my epa is L=100% and R=108% to turn same circle diameter left and right. Maybe it's my servo, maybe the geometry, need to steal my daughter's protractor.
i.e. a 30 deg movement left right on servo = 30 deg movement left right on steering bellcrank
For me, with link 90 deg to servo horn, my epa is L=100% and R=108% to turn same circle diameter left and right. Maybe it's my servo, maybe the geometry, need to steal my daughter's protractor.
Leaving aside obvious things such as tire wear, surface, etc.
If you really want to find where the difference comes from, make sure that with the servo in neutral the car goes straight as an arrow.
Next:
Check toe.
Check with the car in the air (or better still, on a setup board) that wheels turn the same angle left and right. By that I mean, when you steer right, the right wheel is turning the same amount the left wheel turns left when you steer left, and of course, when you steer left, the right wheel should turn just as much as the left wheel turns when you steer right. This is to account for Ackerman.
Check camber is the same left-right
Check ride height is the same left-right, and so on.
All good?
Now you need to now check the rear. Same checks (toe, camber, ride height)
All good?
You need now to check cross chassis distortion (not tweak). Perhaps crabbing describes it better, but I wouldn't call it that. Mark the wheel centres (square at the centre of the wheel nut) on a board, move the car out, measure diagonals. Are they equal?
Measure the distance between centres left and right (wheelbase). Are they equal?
That's pretty much it.
I bet you'll have a headache by now given that everything is so wobbly and has so much play your measurements will have huge tolerances.
Start shimming the bejesus out of it, and by next century you'll find where the problem is.
Or just live with a minute difference in adjustments on your radio.
09-01-2015, 07:52 AM
Very meticulous post.
Good call about the cross measurement for checking thrust angle. Now that I think about it, I forgot to check that on my Sabre I finished building over the weekend.
Will check it tonight, not that I've noticed any dog legging.
For me, unless it's a pancar it's nearly impossible to get the weight completely even L/R, plus, the rubber tires make it kind of hard to get it to balance properly unlike foams. I just let the play in the arms and steering linkage blend all the minute mechanical differences and just dial out the summation from the radio.
Good call about the cross measurement for checking thrust angle. Now that I think about it, I forgot to check that on my Sabre I finished building over the weekend.
Will check it tonight, not that I've noticed any dog legging.For me, unless it's a pancar it's nearly impossible to get the weight completely even L/R, plus, the rubber tires make it kind of hard to get it to balance properly unlike foams. I just let the play in the arms and steering linkage blend all the minute mechanical differences and just dial out the summation from the radio.