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Old 09-22-2015, 06:35 AM
  #25576  
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Originally Posted by sakadachi View Post
Do you notice any leaking at all on this oil diff? I want to get one, but can not have leaking oil in my basement track.
I will be using AE's 100K. It's pretty stiff but not too stiff. TIA
No leaking with mine. Its great.

When you order it, also order a set of the steal/hard outdrives as the stock ones are too soft.

Ryan
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by filippimini View Post
No leaking with mine. Its great.

When you order it, also order a set of the steal/hard outdrives as the stock ones are too soft.

Ryan
Thanks, filippimini. I will definitely order the steel hardened outdrives when i order the 3Racing oil diff.

I have 2 new TA03 ball diff spares so I put a new one in my V2. Yes, I opened it up yet again last night to replace. Also wired up the Thunderpower 21.5. Not bad, much smoother and turns like it should.

Will work on the suspension some more tonight, but I too think I need a 1 degree toe-in on the rear if I'm going to be running the S-grips. The rear is dragging during switchbacks.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...53-v2-21-5.jpg


[Edit] If anyone can point out which bell washer to take out on the TA03 diff, please let me know. My old one will no longer tighten even at full tightness on the screw. I want to reuse it.

Last edited by sakadachi; 09-22-2015 at 08:52 AM.
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Old 09-22-2015, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by OSherman View Post
Ran Full Length R1-Wurks 6000
When I put my heavier pack in my V2 the car drove MUCH better. Thanks for the tip. So much for these shorty hype.

I feel that I am now around 2014 era... so much BS I had to go through reading and trying different things the last 12 months just to get back to basically my fundamental setups I was running back 15yrs ago.

Next up, I'm going to mess around with brushless motors taking them apart and trying different rotors, etc. Should be fun.
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Old 09-22-2015, 11:56 PM
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I don't want to rain on your parade, but as far as what battery works best, locations and track conditions are kind of important. Just because a guy had success at one track, does not mean the same formula will work elsewhere. The difference between running outdoors at Aliso Viejo, an indoor carpet track in the mid-west in January, or on rubber mats in your basement is huge. Temperature, surface conditions, track length and even humidity play a part. Don't get to attached to any one idea, because eventually you may be in a real race and things might be different.

I believe the Belleville washer you want to remove from your diff is the outermost one.
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Old 09-23-2015, 03:02 AM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
I don't want to rain on your parade, but as far as what battery works best, locations and track conditions are kind of important. Just because a guy had success at one track, does not mean the same formula will work elsewhere. The difference between running outdoors at Aliso Viejo, an indoor carpet track in the mid-west in January, or on rubber mats in your basement is huge. Temperature, surface conditions, track length and even humidity play a part. Don't get to attached to any one idea, because eventually you may be in a real race and things might be different.
Might be???
More likely will be. We haven't seen one set up that is consistant from day to day!!!
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:43 AM
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It's more like the fundamental weight balance is not there while running a shorty on my V2.
Same on my Sabre's. Too light is not good.
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
No, it is not. You remove one of the smaller cone or Belleville washers and use all 3 of the larger ones. Unless you are wanting to make your diff very tight, this isn't the best way to do it. This is a technique that we used many years ago, but abandoned cause it seems to load up the thrust washer unduly and causes premature failure. A diff built this way is never "smooth" and needs frequent rebuilds. If I remember correctly, leaving out one of the large washers gives you a looser diff.

What might be a better way is to build per the instructions, but use a shim or shims on the diff nut or screw. It takes the same size shim as you use on the axles. The advantage here is that you can make the adjustments in 0.1mm increments so that you can have the diff action you want. I generally use between 0.2-0.5mm in shims, but I do't run them ultra tight.
Found the post. Thanks grandpa. Will try the shim to rebuild my worn TA03 diff.

I was wondering why people would remove a bell washer to tighten it, thus the question posted a few above. Shims make more sense to me too.

Last edited by sakadachi; 09-23-2015 at 08:04 AM.
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Old 09-23-2015, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
I don't want to rain on your parade, but as far as what battery works best, locations and track conditions are kind of important. Just because a guy had success at one track, does not mean the same formula will work elsewhere. The difference between running outdoors at Aliso Viejo, an indoor carpet track in the mid-west in January, or on rubber mats in your basement is huge. Temperature, surface conditions, track length and even humidity play a part. Don't get to attached to any one idea, because eventually you may be in a real race and things might be different.

.....
Originally Posted by sakadachi View Post
It's more like the fundamental weight balance is not there while running a shorty on my V2.
Same on my Sabre's. Too light is not good.
Both very true statements.. Just depends on what you are looking for and how you interpret the info.
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Old 09-23-2015, 10:35 AM
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Default 3x3mm Bushings - for Ball Differential

Does anyone have any experience trying these bushings in the diff?


http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=5371
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Old 09-23-2015, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by godzukihop View Post
Does anyone have any experience trying these bushings in the diff?


http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=5371
Yes
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Old 09-23-2015, 03:36 PM
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Looking at those bushings it almost seems like you can stuff a faucet rubber washer or a coupling washer between the pressure plates and get similar results?
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Old 09-23-2015, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by sakadachi View Post
Looking at those bushings it almost seems like you can stuff a faucet rubber washer or a coupling washer between the pressure plates and get similar results?
theres lots of ways to skin a cat..
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by OSherman View Post
theres lots of ways to skin a cat..
Indeed!
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Old 09-23-2015, 11:30 PM
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So for the M05 diff set up
Bushing diff is better than stock Gear diff with extra washers for indoor carpet race? The ball diff any good?
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Old 09-24-2015, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by OVA View Post
So for the M05 diff set up
Bushing diff is better than stock Gear diff with extra washers for indoor carpet race? The ball diff any good?
I don't know for your application since I don't know your traction level, but if it wasn't for the new TA03 diff sets I already had in my parts bin, I would have just done the monkeyracing diff or the 3Racing oil diff.

Each time I have to crack open these Tamiya m-chassis halves just to get to the diff I think it's a joke. I also had to laugh when I tried sliding one of my full sized 5200mAh lipo's into my V2. It's bad enough I had to bend my motor's solder terminals just to get it to fit the V2. The Lipo did not fit through the rectangular hole either. So I've been using the round housing Peak Lipo's..

If I ever do get ball diffs again for my m-chassis, I would go back to the M05 ball diffs as I do not need it super stiff, and it is adjustable from the outside.

Give the monkeyracing diff a try. It's working great on my near stock M05. Plus, he recommended drilling access holes for the little diff screws allowing adjustability from the outside.

EDIT: I'm going to do the monkeyracing diff in my GF01's and WildWilly2 this winter. Might do it on my kid's WildDagger too from yesteryear since he gets stuck from time to time on terrain. I will be making the shims out of transparency film and sandwiching them between the diff housing and the factory shim. Should cost me like.. nothing.

Last edited by sakadachi; 09-24-2015 at 09:16 AM.
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