288LikesTamiya mini cooper
06-30-2015, 11:47 AM
06-30-2015, 11:54 AM
deleted..
Last edited by sakadachi; 07-01-2015 at 12:10 PM.
06-30-2015, 11:54 AM
deleted..
Last edited by sakadachi; 07-01-2015 at 12:09 PM.
06-30-2015, 11:55 AM
Test test test...?
06-30-2015, 12:06 PM
I can't seem to post on this thread today.. 
06-30-2015, 01:32 PM
test
06-30-2015, 10:09 PM
I didn't touch on this cause it's a totally different subject. This is pretty much what happens----Not 100% correct, but, hay, it's close enough. Here's what happens----let's say you have the shock fully extended and the oil filled to the top of the shock body. If you push the shock shaft up, oil will spill over the edge. As the shock shaft moves up, it will displace the oil and cause it to overflow.
Now this is why we have the bladder. If we put the bladder on a shock with the shock fully extended, as you push the shock shaft up, since you cannot compress a liquid,as the liquid or oil is displaced, the bladder deflects. The more the the shock shaft moves, the more oil is displaced and the more the bladder deflects. This is why, if the shock is not fully up, the shock shaft will come back out, because the bladder will want to return to it's original shape. If it doesn't come back out at all, that's a zero rebound shock. 2mm a 2mm rebound shock. And so on.
The amount the shock shaft extends from the bottom of the shock body, When th e top ring is cinched down goes a long way in determining how much rebound your shock will have. It's important to make the shocks the same from side to side, not so much front to rear. I imagine you could alter handling by making the front and rear shocks a different rebound, but I don't drive good enough to have seen a measurable difference.
This brings us to another subject. It is impossible to build a zero rebound shock with a Tamiya TRF type shock if your components like the bladder are in good shape. When you put the cap on, you will trap air between it and the bladder. As you tighten the top ring, the bladder compresses and so does the trapped air which causes it to distort the bladder and force the shock shaft out. You can get around this by drilling a small #60 sized air bleed hole in the plastic cap. The TCS tech guy did not like this, so plug the hole up after the shock is assembled. That's a totally different subject about anatomy and orifices.
I hope this explanation did not get too basic, but it wasn't intended for the pros.
Now this is why we have the bladder. If we put the bladder on a shock with the shock fully extended, as you push the shock shaft up, since you cannot compress a liquid,as the liquid or oil is displaced, the bladder deflects. The more the the shock shaft moves, the more oil is displaced and the more the bladder deflects. This is why, if the shock is not fully up, the shock shaft will come back out, because the bladder will want to return to it's original shape. If it doesn't come back out at all, that's a zero rebound shock. 2mm a 2mm rebound shock. And so on.
The amount the shock shaft extends from the bottom of the shock body, When th e top ring is cinched down goes a long way in determining how much rebound your shock will have. It's important to make the shocks the same from side to side, not so much front to rear. I imagine you could alter handling by making the front and rear shocks a different rebound, but I don't drive good enough to have seen a measurable difference.
This brings us to another subject. It is impossible to build a zero rebound shock with a Tamiya TRF type shock if your components like the bladder are in good shape. When you put the cap on, you will trap air between it and the bladder. As you tighten the top ring, the bladder compresses and so does the trapped air which causes it to distort the bladder and force the shock shaft out. You can get around this by drilling a small #60 sized air bleed hole in the plastic cap. The TCS tech guy did not like this, so plug the hole up after the shock is assembled. That's a totally different subject about anatomy and orifices.
I hope this explanation did not get too basic, but it wasn't intended for the pros.
Hi Granpa,
would like to ask for some advice.
running on mid to high traction carpet, M-Grip tires with all round hard insert, Medium wheel base.
What will you suggest for shock rebound?
build it to zero rebound or full rebound ?
Thank you in advance !
06-30-2015, 11:12 PM
The TOP Sabre mini is loud. I can not get the noise to lessen. I did ake my own lexan over for the side gear and the front, to prevent little stones from destroying the gears though.
I used the supplied springs and set my ride height 5.2 mm front and 5.6mm rear, 1.5 degree front camber and 2 degree rear. 350 or 400 oil and 3hole pistons. I use a short pack lipo and added the alloy steering hopup. I also fitted the TOP racing oil gear diff with 300k oil.
Car is very easy to drive quickly and tracks very straight. I also pur hased the front alloy knuckles, but they are still in my pit box. I fitted sweep 40 front and sweep 25 rear. I also added lead to the chassis to get the car to have more front bite.
I also have the TOP Sabre 4wd car, just not completed or run yet.
Regards
Calvin
I used the supplied springs and set my ride height 5.2 mm front and 5.6mm rear, 1.5 degree front camber and 2 degree rear. 350 or 400 oil and 3hole pistons. I use a short pack lipo and added the alloy steering hopup. I also fitted the TOP racing oil gear diff with 300k oil.
Car is very easy to drive quickly and tracks very straight. I also pur hased the front alloy knuckles, but they are still in my pit box. I fitted sweep 40 front and sweep 25 rear. I also added lead to the chassis to get the car to have more front bite.
I also have the TOP Sabre 4wd car, just not completed or run yet.
Regards
Calvin
Last edited by caltek1; 06-30-2015 at 11:20 PM. Reason: xtra text
06-30-2015, 11:55 PM
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To be brutally honest the kits weren't great anyway.
07-01-2015, 01:22 AM
Drilling the shock cap not legal ? I had no idea. I know Tamiya races have a strict rule book but I assumed any race where the Sabre Mini would be legal would allow you to do anything on your shocks.
@ Sakadachi: can't believe you prefer making holes in a brand new chassis than re-drilling a body
@ Sakadachi: can't believe you prefer making holes in a brand new chassis than re-drilling a body
07-01-2015, 05:46 AM
Guys, sorry about the re-posts yesterday, the site was real sluggish and would not post
what I wrote so I made a few attempts. This morning I saw that all my attempts actually posted...
Thanks, eR1c! That 4WD you have looks good too! 
I need to fiddle around with the rear
damper a little more. The car tends to have a tiny bit of hop. I need to soften the damper a tad more.
I did the initial alignment yesterday. I may add a tad bit of camber on the rear.
Tonight I hope to finish the car with a fresh body on it. I've been using an old mule body to test fit.
what I wrote so I made a few attempts. This morning I saw that all my attempts actually posted...
nice build Sakadachi!
I have not driven the FWD Sabre mini, but do own a 4WD Sabre mini. Speaking for the 4WD version it handles incredibly well as good as a full size touring car. I can whip that little car around the tightest corners at near full throttle and at worst the tires may slip a tad ..it just hugs the road so well. Its a fun little car.
Here are a few photos of mine,
I just upgraded the servo and receiver (to match my new controller), so the wiring is still a mess.
I have not driven the FWD Sabre mini, but do own a 4WD Sabre mini. Speaking for the 4WD version it handles incredibly well as good as a full size touring car. I can whip that little car around the tightest corners at near full throttle and at worst the tires may slip a tad ..it just hugs the road so well. Its a fun little car.
Here are a few photos of mine,
I just upgraded the servo and receiver (to match my new controller), so the wiring is still a mess.
I need to fiddle around with the rear damper a little more. The car tends to have a tiny bit of hop. I need to soften the damper a tad more.
I did the initial alignment yesterday. I may add a tad bit of camber on the rear.
Tonight I hope to finish the car with a fresh body on it.
I've been using an old mule body to test fit.
07-01-2015, 07:29 AM
Vacuum pump is really useful. Wouldn't even attempt to do my shocks without one.
You can drill a 1mm- 1,5mm hole in the cap, to get rid of most of the rebound from the air trapped behind the bldder.
Ghetto-er shock holder: Take the cap off your brake cleaner can and drill four holes with a body reamer.
You can drill a 1mm- 1,5mm hole in the cap, to get rid of most of the rebound from the air trapped behind the bldder.
Ghetto-er shock holder: Take the cap off your brake cleaner can and drill four holes with a body reamer.
For TCS racing it is. However, if you recall, I went round and round with Eric who is one of the tech guys in the thread. He finally relented and said that it would be okay if we plugged the hole. Therefor, you can use the hole to bleed out the air during the build and plug it with some cyano after.
The concern is that using a hole like this will alter the shock action. Yes it will if you drill a hole much larger than the #60 sized hole I suggested. However to assuage their concerns, just put a drop of cyano over the hole. It's not needed after the air trapped between the bladder and the cap is relieved.
07-01-2015, 10:02 AM
What gears and hop ups and pinion should I use for a brushless 3750kv motor??
07-01-2015, 11:21 AM
07-01-2015, 12:00 PM
The TOP Sabre mini is loud. I can not get the noise to lessen. I did ake my own lexan over for the side gear and the front, to prevent little stones from destroying the gears though.
I used the supplied springs and set my ride height 5.2 mm front and 5.6mm rear, 1.5 degree front camber and 2 degree rear. 350 or 400 oil and 3hole pistons. I use a short pack lipo and added the alloy steering hopup. I also fitted the TOP racing oil gear diff with 300k oil.
Car is very easy to drive quickly and tracks very straight. I also pur hased the front alloy knuckles, but they are still in my pit box. I fitted sweep 40 front and sweep 25 rear. I also added lead to the chassis to get the car to have more front bite.
I also have the TOP Sabre 4wd car, just not completed or run yet.
Regards
Calvin
I used the supplied springs and set my ride height 5.2 mm front and 5.6mm rear, 1.5 degree front camber and 2 degree rear. 350 or 400 oil and 3hole pistons. I use a short pack lipo and added the alloy steering hopup. I also fitted the TOP racing oil gear diff with 300k oil.
Car is very easy to drive quickly and tracks very straight. I also pur hased the front alloy knuckles, but they are still in my pit box. I fitted sweep 40 front and sweep 25 rear. I also added lead to the chassis to get the car to have more front bite.
I also have the TOP Sabre 4wd car, just not completed or run yet.
Regards
Calvin
Nice idea on the gear cover!
I don't like extra holes in my pretty Rover Mini bodies.