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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 07-01-2015, 06:03 PM
  #24241  
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Originally Posted by Granpa
Try this. At slow speed see if the turn radius is different going left or right. Sounds like you have your steering set up wrong. I'd explain, but it's in the manual.
It's perfect. Turns nice and tight same size circle. I'll double check but I'm sure it is cuz I was doing little figure 8s lol. What now?
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Old 07-01-2015, 06:53 PM
  #24242  
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I apologize to Eric. He was talking about the TA03 ball diff an not the m05. You do really tighten down on the diff screw on the TA03 diff and loctite it to boot . To adjust the diff action, you place shims on the diff screw. Anywhere from 0.2 to 0.5mm works most of the time.
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Old 07-01-2015, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
It's perfect. Turns nice and tight same size circle. I'll double check but I'm sure it is cuz I was doing little figure 8s lol. What now?
Okay, this is how you check left to right steering. Place the car down and and do 180 half circle. Pick the car up, turn it around and do a 180 the other way. If your steering is the same, it will come out at the place you started. You do not check doing figure eights cause you're just guessing.

A couple of inches at this speed could be a foot or more at speed.

Since you're just starting out, just have fun with the car and upgrade it as you can. The worst thing a newbie can do is to try to build a race tuned Mini from the beginning.
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Old 07-01-2015, 07:17 PM
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Hey m05newbie,
In a previous post you mentioned something about a sound coming from your gears.
Just curious, but was this sound you were hearing when you were accelerating and turning
The wheels one way or another???
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Old 07-01-2015, 07:52 PM
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I got the bumper trimmed to fit..



Side view. I have large clearance under the chassis as I run these cars outdoors sometimes.
I moved the front body post back another 1mm for a perfect fit.





I took Caltek's advise on the front/rear ride height difference and more neg camber on the rear.
Car runs very naturally, almost no more wheel hop during fast turn-ins. I'm going to lower the damper oil
weight down the road but for now, I am very pleased with how the car runs!!
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Old 07-01-2015, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by KA2AEV
Hey m05newbie,
In a previous post you mentioned something about a sound coming from your gears.
Just curious, but was this sound you were hearing when you were accelerating and turning
The wheels one way or another???
It's when I turn the wheels and accelerate. Don't know if it's left or right more of the time. I think it's mostly both of them but I will check next time I drive it. It just sounds like skipping teeth when I turn
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Old 07-01-2015, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Granpa
Okay, this is how you check left to right steering. Place the car down and and do 180 half circle. Pick the car up, turn it around and do a 180 the other way. If your steering is the same, it will come out at the place you started. You do not check doing figure eights cause you're just guessing.

A couple of inches at this speed could be a foot or more at speed.

Since you're just starting out, just have fun with the car and upgrade it as you can. The worst thing a newbie can do is to try to build a race tuned Mini from the beginning.
First- what speed do I do this at. Just crawling right?

Well I'm new as in serious about it now. I raced it on carpet maybe a few times (10ish) last every time lol. Have type a slicks and s grips aswell as the tamiya tires it came with. Ball bearings, oil shocks and upgraded Springs but no clue what type or weight of oil or anything since they were given to me by a fellow racer at the time. Upgraded the front upright arms because one bent from the heat by the motor from me driving like an idiot. But I put the car away for 3 Mayne 4 yrs. Now I took it out again and am getting pretty good at driving again but it just won't accelerate through a corner well. When it's turned it just sounds like she's skipping teeth and it the motor is turning but the wheels and car aren't doing what they should. It's all normal pavement I drive on now. Would a ball diff help this??? Am looking into a 3750kv brushless too down the road but it's gotta handle right first.

Last edited by M05 newbie; 07-01-2015 at 09:12 PM.
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
It's when I turn the wheels and accelerate. Don't know if it's left or right more of the time. I think it's mostly both of them but I will check next time I drive it. It just sounds like skipping teeth when I turn
That's either your dogbone (or cvd) chatter. Considered normal for the Tamiya's. After you setup your EPA, I use dual rate to minimize. Sometimes difficult to reduce the noise while driving tight tracks though.
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Old 07-01-2015, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Granpa
First, let me tell you that I race primarily on outdoor, low to med grip asphalt. I've only done 20-30 races on carpet.

With that being said, I almost always use zero rebound for a number of reasons. The first being they are the easiest to build. The second is trying to build, say four 2mm rebound shocks, is very difficult. Third, once you build them, they don't stay that way.

Full rebound is never a good idea cause a lot of the shock action depends on being able to compress that little air bubble between the bladder and the cap. The shock will really stiffen up as it compresses and will affect the handling in an adverse way. There are other reasons, but a long winded dissertation was not part of what you were requesting.


Hi Granpa

Thank you for the advice.
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Old 07-01-2015, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
First- what speed do I do this at. Just crawling right?

Well I'm new as in serious about it now. I raced it on carpet maybe a few times (10ish) last every time lol. Have type a slicks and s grips aswell as the tamiya tires it came with. Ball bearings, oil shocks and upgraded Springs but no clue what type or weight of oil or anything since they were given to me by a fellow racer at the time. Upgraded the front upright arms because one bent from the heat by the motor from me driving like an idiot. But I put the car away for 3 Mayne 4 yrs. Now I took it out again and am getting pretty good at driving again but it just won't accelerate through a corner well. When it's turned it just sounds like she's skipping teeth and it the motor is turning but the wheels and car aren't doing what they should. It's all normal pavement I drive on now. Would a ball diff help this??? Am looking into a 3750kv brushless too down the road but it's gotta handle right first.
Okay, if you're getting serious, first upgrade is the metal steering linkages. Tamiya $60+, 3Racing $20, but the Tamiya units are worth the extra. The second is some good shocks----TRF Tamiya. Get the TC ones, cause the shock bodies are 2mm or so longer. The larger oil volume makes for a smoother shock. The Mini or the #54000 ones are not as good. I'm assuming you have ball bearings in the car. Personally, I like metal shielded bearings cause the sealed ones drag and get really bad if you try to clean them. I do use sealed bearings for the outside front wheel bearings, but they get tossed fairly frequently cause they just don't last long for the beating they take.

Noisy gears are bad gears, period. When they make noise you replace them. The Mini trannies are noisy, but should not make Grinding noises. If you are still using dog bones replace them. Unless you are TCS racing use the CVDs from 3 Racing----about $15 and very smooth. The Tamiya ones are $30 and garbage. The old Tamiya one piece units were the best tho---discontinued now , but some LHS may have some.

Basic or initial set up is this

TRF shocks---3 hole piston, 40 wt Losi oil or Tamiya 4000 or is it 400 oil. Zero rebound. 56.5mm overall length.
Springs are from the #53333 spring set. Park all the Mini springs you have. Too stiff. Yellow fronts and blue rears
Roll bar---rear only. Start with the heavy one.
Option front shock tower----use the second hole from the outside.
Option rear shock tower----use the second or third hole. I like to stand the shocks up a bit
Rear upright---use the kit one to start and start with 2 degrees of rear camber
Front upright----metal if it's in the budget. These pay for themselves
Diff-----TA 03 with a 0.2mm shim on the diff screw.
Tires ----Sweep 40 premounts front and 33 or 25 rears
Ride height 5mm front and rear, front measure at the low point just in front of the motor and the rear at the rear of the chassis
Toe out----1 degree per side and as much as 2degrees per side to get the car to track straight. Tip----take the car and lay it on it's side.Make the tire that's on the table flush on the table. Then check the upper tire and wheel for toe. Trying to eyeball it when the car is on 4 wheels is at best a wild guess. This is important when you cart running small amounts of toe out.
Bodies----different bodies drive differently. Stay away from any of the Alfa or Abarth Bodies. The Swift is my favorite but there are others that may be better.

Like i've posted before. This is not a killer set up, but is a basic set up with a wide safety margin. It should give you a drivable car on almost any track, any surface. You make adjustments and changes off your base set up. My basic set up is a title edgier than this one, but this should get you by for awhile.

As always, this is just an opinion. If you differ, that's fine. Post that. I hate posting set ups cause there will always be someone who'll just do a couple of things in the set up and come back and loudly proclaim that Granpa's an idiot cause his set up doesn't work. All set ups are integrated and everything works together. Change anything or leave something out and it's not the set up. Sorta like pouring water in a cylinder you've left the bottom cap off of, and bitch cause it don't hold water.
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Old 07-02-2015, 05:19 AM
  #24251  
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Originally Posted by sakadachi
That's either your dogbone (or cvd) chatter. Considered normal for the Tamiya's. After you setup your EPA, I use dual rate to minimize. Sometimes difficult to reduce the noise while driving tight tracks though.
To grandpa....Thankyou...I have some of that already. Can u explain how to check ride height...

To sakadachi....what is the dog bone and EPA.

NOTE: I don't have any races here just want a race like car. Can't find any TCS RACES!!! 😂
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Old 07-02-2015, 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
To grandpa....Thankyou...I have some of that already. Can u explain how to check ride height...

To sakadachi....what is the dog bone and EPA.

NOTE: I don't have any races here just want a race like car. Can't find any TCS RACES!!! ��
The dogbones are the parts that go inbetween the drive gears out to where the wheels are attached
If you have any rubber o rings left in your parts, try putting one or two into the cup behind
The wheel on the inside, where the dog bone sits in the axle
That should get rid of the noise when your accelerating and steering
As for the locations of any races, where are you located?
Mike
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Old 07-02-2015, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by KA2AEV
The dogbones are the parts that go inbetween the drive gears out to where the wheels are attached
If you have any rubber o rings left in your parts, try putting one or two into the cup behind
The wheel on the inside, where the dog bone sits in the axle
That should get rid of the noise when your accelerating and steering
As for the locations of any races, where are you located?
Mike
Oakville ontario canada unfortunately lol
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Old 07-02-2015, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
To grandpa....Thankyou...I have some of that already. Can u explain how to check ride height...

To sakadachi....what is the dog bone and EPA.

NOTE: I don't have any races here just want a race like car. Can't find any TCS RACES!!! 😂
Dog bone is the drive axle that looks like a dogbone.
EPA is end point adjustment. Steering lock to lock angle.

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Old 07-02-2015, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
To grandpa....Thankyou...I have some of that already. Can u explain how to check ride height
This is exactly why I quit posting set ups. As I tried to explain, all set ups are integrated. Each part works cause another part is there. You cannot take one part or parts of someones set up and expect it to work in the same way. You develop your own set up, by making changes off of your base set up. In time you'll have your own base set up. I just posted a base set up I use when going to a new track or have a new chassis. With that being said use what you like, just don't expect the same results.

The actual ride height is one of the least important things for me cause that's one of the first things I change. I use drill rod to measure ride height. I cut 4inch sections of drill rod. I put together a set of drill rods that are 3, 4, and 5mm in diameter. Drill rod can be purchased from places like McMaster-Carr and is cheap. And unfortunately comes in 36" lengths.

Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the Thank You. This is why some of us still post. It's primarily to get guys like you going and make sure you have an enjoyable Mini journey. I've been there and w/out the help of the Dennis Lymans and others whose names I won't mention, things for me would have been more difficult. Apologize, but I can be an irascible curmudgeon at times.
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