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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 07-02-2015, 08:51 AM
  #24256  
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For ride height, I use a metal ruler what has the measurement indicators from the edge of the ruler. Yes, very old school. I know they sell gauges for ride height that look like ramps, but as Granpa mentioned the actual height is not that important to me either.

It's the difference between the front and rear heights (rake) that is important. Honestly for these m-chassis, I try to maximize ground clearance. Like that SabreFD Mini I was working on, 10mm clearance from bench top to bottom of lower CF deck. I need this level of clearance when I'm driving these cars out on the parking lot. If this was a real car that's still 10-12cm.. that is pretty low slung.
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Granpa
This is exactly why I quit posting set ups. As I tried to explain, all set ups are integrated. Each part works cause another part is there. You cannot take one part or parts of someones set up and expect it to work in the same way. You develop your own set up, by making changes off of your base set up. In time you'll have your own base set up. I just posted a base set up I use when going to a new track or have a new chassis. With that being said use what you like, just don't expect the same results.

The actual ride height is one of the least important things for me cause that's one of the first things I change. I use drill rod to measure ride height. I cut 4inch sections of drill rod. I put together a set of drill rods that are 3, 4, and 5mm in diameter. Drill rod can be purchased from places like McMaster-Carr and is cheap. And unfortunately comes in 36" lengths.

Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the Thank You. This is why some of us still post. It's primarily to get guys like you going and make sure you have an enjoyable Mini journey. I've been there and w/out the help of the Dennis Lymans and others whose names I won't mention, things for me would have been more difficult. Apologize, but I can be an irascible curmudgeon at times.
No I totally understand a setup works that way with ALL of those components mentioned...I was just stating that I have the shocks and I beleive blue and yellow as u said. I'm going to give that setup a try for sure. I ordered the 3Racing links already ..waiting for shipping. I do appreciate it a lot. Next few pays I will look into the ball diff and transmission I. E bearings and such. I'll post it soon. Just not clear on where to measure ride height too and from?

Also are the tamiya brand of tires best for durability and grip? Pavement has been killing them latley
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:11 AM
  #24258  
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I noticed my factory M-compound tires wear quickly, but the 60D SuperGrips last a while?
I use it until it nearly tears. No need for the radial pattern.
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:59 AM
  #24259  
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
Oakville ontario canada unfortunately lol
Drop a guy a named Monkeyracing, He's up your way, maybe he can give you some info on the local scene,
There is (was) a TCS in Ill or Wisc last year( I cant remember which state it was)
You can keep tabs on the TCS Scene from their web site
Just google up Tamiya Championship Series Schedule
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Old 07-02-2015, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
No I totally understand a setup works that way with ALL of those components mentioned...I was just stating that I have the shocks and I beleive blue and yellow as u said. I'm going to give that setup a try for sure. I ordered the 3Racing links already ..waiting for shipping. I do appreciate it a lot. Next few pays I will look into the ball diff and transmission I. E bearings and such. I'll post it soon. Just not clear on where to measure ride height too and from?

Also are the tamiya brand of tires best for durability and grip? Pavement has been killing them latley
The best 60D tires are Pit Shimizu tires with the Tamiya hard foam insert. Not TCS legal for obvious reasons. Use the 456 or 454 in front and the 452 in back. Word of warning here is that it is nearly impossible to tell them apart once out of the bag. I still glue on pair up, then label, before gluing the next.

The best Tamiya tire is the pre mount S-Grip tire. I think the # on that is 1016. If you plan to do TCS racing, you will have to use this pre mounted tire set.
They are "tricky" tires to use, but once you get the hang of them, they are very good. One set of fronts last me one day and a set of rears will last 2 days.

A set of Pit Shimizus last four or five times as long and are cheaper. The disadvantage is you do have to glue them yourself and if you mix them up, it's hell trying to straighten them out. They are also a better performing tire and what I tend to use on a fun day. They also work on the set up I just posted with no changes. The S-grips also work, but you do need to make some adjustments.

You also have to read my set up post with some care cause there's some detail and one very valuable tip there. I just want to make sure you understand that Tamiya makes several different spring sets, all of them using the same color code. Sometimes the spring will be totally in a color and other times they will use a dot. Red is always the softest spring in that set and blue the hardest. I specified the spring set #53333 and unless you are using that spring set, you have the wrong spring.

I'm not saying you have to do everything I posted, I'm just saying that it might not work well until you do. In the meantime, just have a blast running what you have and add the stuff as time and the budget permits. This after all is just for fun.

Incidentally, I get most of my stuff from TQRacing and when I didn't, I gave you the source.

Last edited by Granpa; 07-02-2015 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 07-02-2015, 01:33 PM
  #24261  
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Originally Posted by Granpa
The best 60D tires are Pit Shimizu tires with the Tamiya hard foam insert. Not TCS legal for obvious reasons. Use the 456 or 454 in front and the 452 in back. Word of warning here is that it is nearly impossible to tell them apart once out of the bag. I still glue on pair up, then label, before gluing the next.

The best Tamiya tire is the pre mount S-Grip tire. I think the # on that is 1016. If you plan to do TCS racing, you will have to use this pre mounted tire set.
They are "tricky" tires to use, but once you get the hang of them, they are very good. One set of fronts last me one day and a set of rears will last 2 days.

A set of Pit Shimizus last four or five times as long and are cheaper. The disadvantage is you do have to glue them yourself and if you mix them up, it's hell trying to straighten them out. They are also a better performing tire and what I tend to use on a fun day. They also work on the set up I just posted with no changes. The S-grips also work, but you do need to make some adjustments.
Amazing info guys ..Thankyou very much. This just in...I was racing in the parking lot today on my lunch and smashed into my tire on my car...the spur gear stripped teeth. So now it REALLY makes that horrible sound. I'm going to disassemble it tonight hopefully if I have a spare spur in with my parts and I'll see if I can get her running tonight and post some pics of what I have.

Is there any upgradable (tougher )spur gears and dogbones and gears that I could get that have a longer lifespan or will the one's that come with the ball diff be good enough??
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Old 07-02-2015, 01:41 PM
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Tamiya sells the reinforced gears which are black.

Dogbones... I'm not sure if the Tamiya CVD's are any stronger. But the chattering noise you were talking about will be reduced quite a bit.
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Old 07-02-2015, 02:06 PM
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please elaborate on the the "tricky to use" part of the s-grips. I started running a mini this summer and have encountered difficulty getting some of the s grips to break in and have not found any consistency from one set to the next. Whats the magic breakin process to get them work switch on quickly and work consistantly from one set to the next?
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Old 07-02-2015, 02:25 PM
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I've not had issues on the S-Grip Radial tires. They grip very well out of the bag. Maybe you can try some traction compound?
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Old 07-02-2015, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by sakadachi
I've not had issues on the S-Grip Radial tires. They grip very well out of the bag. Maybe you can try some traction compound?
Ive been using traction compound. the problem I have encountered is that some of them have had significantly more grip than others.
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Old 07-02-2015, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mtveten
Ive been using traction compound. the problem I have encountered is that some of them have had significantly more grip than others.
Are you cleaning the tire surface completely before applying additional tire compound? I use a hard bristle brush to clean the tires completely before applying tire compound. This alone makes a huge difference in grip.

I am a little surprised to read there is variation as I've not encountered this.
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Old 07-02-2015, 05:08 PM
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yep, I am used to using traction compounds and all that goes along with them. What have seen is in the last 4 sets of tires i bought 1 set was much firmer than the others and 7 of the 12 softer tires had hard and hollow spots in there inserts.
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Old 07-02-2015, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mtveten
please elaborate on the the "tricky to use" part of the s-grips. I started running a mini this summer and have encountered difficulty getting some of the s grips to break in and have not found any consistency from one set to the next. Whats the magic breakin process to get them work switch on quickly and work consistantly from one set to the next?
It takes awhile to learn how to get the most out of these tires. Some times different sets will behave differently. I generally break them up into sets of 6. 2 pairs of fronts to one pair of rears. I'll run them till the lap time drops. It's dramatic and can be 0.5sec or more. Then run the second set of fronts until the lap time drops. That's gives you 2 sets which should give you four race week ends or a total of 8 qualifiers and 4 mains. Try not to mix the tires up although you can use a set of well broken in fronts on the rear.

That's if conditions are perfect and everything goes to plan. Sometimes you'll get a pair of fronts that never give you that drop in lap times. Sometimes you'll get a set of rears that never comes in. If you run these tires for awhile you'll always have some extra sets of "good" rears. Most guys are used to just buying a set or two and having them work. Might take several sets of 1016 to get two good race sets or it could just take two. Sometimes, the tires that failed at first will come in after you run them a bit.

When you go around the pits, you'll hear all sorts of routines to make a good set of race tires. I just told you mine and it might not be the best routine. Like I said, "tricky" if you're looking to get the most out of these tires. I wish there was a set way to do this, but there really isn't. It's one of those learn by doing things.

Last edited by Granpa; 07-02-2015 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 07-02-2015, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mtveten
yep, I am used to using traction compounds and all that goes along with them. What have seen is in the last 4 sets of tires i bought 1 set was much firmer than the others and 7 of the 12 softer tires had hard and hollow spots in there inserts.
This one I can answer. If you got a set that was harder it probably was a set with the old rubber cpd.

Tamiya USA contracted with a US company to glue the #1016 premounts. The insert that is used in the premounts is the same one that comes in your kit. When you make up the inserts for the tires, you glue the end of the inserts together with contact or rubber cement. This was not done when these were assembled. What happens is that if the ends are not glued, the insert will "walk"" and you'll wind up with a spot where there is no insert. This is that soft spot you are experiencing. If you are luck, you won't find many tires where the insert will walk, but-------------------screwed. It actually doesn't seem to adversely affect lap times unless it's really bad.
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Old 07-02-2015, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
Oakville ontario canada unfortunately lol
www.ontariorc.net is an Ontario based racing forum, mostly London & the GTA. I race at Lou's Speedway in London & occasionally in St. Catharines with Niagara RC. They are on Facebook, as well as Ontario On-Road RC Racers. Racers from the GTA regularly race at Lou's & Niagara RC. There also other tracks, Ottawa, Kingsville & Kingston to name a few.

Oh and the Canadian Onroad Nationals are held every March in Welland. You can see TCS winning Mini drivers there.
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