Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya mini cooper >

Tamiya mini cooper

Like Tree288Likes

Tamiya mini cooper

Old 06-24-2015, 11:56 AM
  #24091  
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
Default

Originally Posted by sakadachi
It almost sounds like the horn you are using is too narrow at the stop.
Have you tried the factory horn that came with the high torque servo saver?

I use this servo saver exclusively on my Tamiya cars and what I do is make my own extensions to the high torque servo saver horn. I can take some pictures later, but I have no issue with play, horn swivel length, or it loosening.

BTW, do you have the round cover at the very top of the servo saver? You need that in order for the thing to work properly. 3rd one on the right, second row below:

The plastic arms are okay in some cases, but the alloy arms have some play. You are correct in that the arm seems to be narrow cause the springs have a gap to the stops on the arms.

I guess another simple solution might be to go back to the tock arms like you're using.
Granpa is offline  
Old 06-24-2015, 12:28 PM
  #24092  
Tech Master
 
heretic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: europe
Posts: 1,110
Default

Originally Posted by sakadachi
Wait, so there is a 2nd gen SabreFD Mini? And you could tell all these things by just looking at the car? wow! The kit ball diff is very similar to the M05 ball diff; I have no issue with the M05 ball diff so I did not think too much of it?

Thanks for the tips. I spent about $200 on spare parts for this chassis and some hopup diff gear set is in there along with several pairs of universals. Will see how the factory pieces hold up. I only run silver can with TBLE02S on all my M-chassis including this Sabre, so I think I should be okay.
My bad, I initially thought you had the TC Sabre FD, not the mini. The drivetrain is the same and the weight of the car not much lower, so I assumed the advice (whatever it's worth ;-) still applied to your case and didn't bother editing my post. I've ran Photons for quite a bit of time so I'm acquainted with the TOP alloy; it is "rather" soft and the dogbones get chewed up really fast, even with slow motors. Plus, FD cars tend to like spools or firm diffs and it makes the problem worse... common knowledge really.

HTH- Have fun !
heretic is offline  
Old 06-24-2015, 01:40 PM
  #24093  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Granpa
The plastic arms are okay in some cases, but the alloy arms have some play. You are correct in that the arm seems to be narrow cause the springs have a gap to the stops on the arms.

I guess another simple solution might be to go back to the tock arms like you're using.
Granpa, Boons - Here are pictures of the horn extensions I made for my M03. Works great for me.

Basically I just cut off the tip of the kit servo saver, trimmed, and attached it to the high torque servo saver horn.
No clearance issues with the chassis.

I couldn't get a good shot with my phone, but here they are for reference:




Last edited by sakadachi; 06-24-2015 at 02:08 PM.
sakadachi is offline  
Old 06-24-2015, 01:45 PM
  #24094  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Thumbs up

Originally Posted by heretic
My bad, I initially thought you had the TC Sabre FD, not the mini. The drivetrain is the same and the weight of the car not much lower, so I assumed the advice (whatever it's worth ;-) still applied to your case and didn't bother editing my post. I've ran Photons for quite a bit of time so I'm acquainted with the TOP alloy; it is "rather" soft and the dogbones get chewed up really fast, even with slow motors. Plus, FD cars tend to like spools or firm diffs and it makes the problem worse... common knowledge really.

HTH- Have fun !
Oh I see! Yeah, I don't know much about Top Racing. Honestly I didn't even know these existed until just recently as they appear to have been released during my 15 year break from RC.

Thanks for your inputs though, I will definitely keep an eye on the drive train.
sakadachi is offline  
Old 06-24-2015, 01:48 PM
  #24095  
Tech Elite
 
sosidge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bristol, UK
Posts: 4,426
Default

Originally Posted by Boons
Yes the play is on the horn side, the rings are nice and snug on that side. I think the Savox is 25t and from memory it's the Futaba attachment I'm using

I'm now wondering if screwing it down too tight might 'open up' the stop....?
Wouldn't surprise me if the Savox spline is the issue. I'm not a fan of those servos in general, and it's certainly the case that not all 25T splines are built the same.

I only have authentic Futaba servos in my cars and have no complaints whatsoever with the Tamiya High Torque servo saver.
sosidge is offline  
Old 06-24-2015, 02:23 PM
  #24096  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I too basically only run Futaba & Spektrum servo's on my Tamiya's using these high torque servo savers. 23 splines on Spektrum S6020, S6040, and S6070 were a bit tight to fit, so I used my Knipex pliers.

Actually, I use this plier often for connecting damper ball joints to suspension arms as the jaws close in parallel. Excellent tool.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
sakadachi is offline  
Old 06-24-2015, 02:40 PM
  #24097  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
eR1c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,479
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

wow, that is an expensive tool!
eR1c is offline  
Old 06-24-2015, 02:47 PM
  #24098  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by eR1c
wow, that is an expensive tool!
Is it? I'm kind of a tool collector type so I thought that was fairly decent price? It's a great tool, well worth the price (made in Germany).
sakadachi is offline  
Old 06-24-2015, 02:48 PM
  #24099  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (37)
 
howardcano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 3,784
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Default

It's certainly past my pain threshold. I'm more of a "C-clamp-I-got-for-a-dollar-at-a-garage-sale" kind of guy.
howardcano is offline  
Old 06-24-2015, 02:51 PM
  #24100  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by howardcano
It's certainly past my pain threshold. I'm more of a "C-clamp-I-got-for-a-dollar-at-a-garage-sale" kind of guy.
Duct tape and pliers for all!
sakadachi is offline  
Old 06-24-2015, 02:56 PM
  #24101  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (37)
 
howardcano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 3,784
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by sakadachi
Duct tape and pliers for all!
In Kansas we still prefer baling wire over that new-fangled tape stuff.
howardcano is offline  
Old 06-24-2015, 03:38 PM
  #24102  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, England
Posts: 153
Default

Originally Posted by Granpa
Curious that you would want to spend time to fix something that is poorly designed and executed rather than using something that works. However, I understand cause the Kimbrough is just plain ugly. Kept me from using them cause the Tamiya unit just looks "right".

Unless they changed it since I last used one, this is the problem. If you'll check how the springs fit the servo arm, you will see that there is a large gap between the end of the spring and the notch they are supposed to fit on the arm. If there is any gap at all, there will be play around center. At least one of the springs have to fit with no gap to eliminate this sloppiness around center.

To be truthful, as soon as I figured out the problem I realized the "fix" would be very difficult and probably beyond my skill set. The fix of course is to eliminate that gap between the end of the springs and the servo arm. The fix I opted for was to toss out the servo saver and that beautiful, expensive, blue alloy arm and use a Kimbrough. I will admit to grinding and reshaping the Kimbrough to beautify it a bit cause they sure are ugly and "cheap" looking.
Hi Granpa, good to hear from you.

I've been on and off this page, and racing following major shoulder surgery!

I'm now interested in the Kimborough. I use one on my bashing 50mph car with no issues. A few guys at the club have used them on M03's and managed to break them. Any breakage issues on the 5? Which one should I go for on the 5? I see they are KP this and that.

Cheers!
Boons is offline  
Old 06-24-2015, 03:40 PM
  #24103  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, England
Posts: 153
Default

Originally Posted by sakadachi
Granpa, Boons - Here are pictures of the horn extensions I made for my M03. Works great for me.

Basically I just cut off the tip of the kit servo saver, trimmed, and attached it to the high torque servo saver horn.
No clearance issues with the chassis.

I couldn't get a good shot with my phone, but here they are for reference:



That's cool mate. Thank you for taking the time to post that
Boons is offline  
Old 06-24-2015, 04:03 PM
  #24104  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
eR1c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,479
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

speaking of pliers for ball joints,
i've been using my fingers/thumbs for snapping together and a plastic tool that came with an HPI cup racer i purchased years ago to take apart ball joints ...which sadly and recently broke.
The one I had for removing ball joints looked a lot like this:
http://www.rcmart.com/blog/wp-conten...t-0061_021.jpg

curious what you guys use? Is there something that costs less than $60? ..thinking in the $20 or less range?
eR1c is offline  
Old 06-24-2015, 04:25 PM
  #24105  
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
Default

Originally Posted by Boons
Hi Granpa, good to hear from you.

I've been on and off this page, and racing following major shoulder surgery!

I'm now interested in the Kimborough. I use one on my bashing 50mph car with no issues. A few guys at the club have used them on M03's and managed to break them. Any breakage issues on the 5? Which one should I go for on the 5? I see they are KP this and that.

Cheers!
I think the part # is KIM201-----that's the mid sized one. $5.95 here. You'll break the steering linkage before you break the servo saver.

Just a reminder. When installing the servo saver, make the center line of the servo arm at 90 to the rod and not to the servo case. If you go 90 to the case, you'll have more throw in one direction compared to the other.

I'm sure you are aware of this, but just in case someone stumbles across this post and wasn't aware of this or just plain missed it.

Sorry to hear about the shoulder surgery. Had to be painful, so hope that all is well. Out of curiosity, how long did you have to wait to have the surgery done??
Granpa is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.