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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 07-05-2015, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
Hey guys...just thinking can u guys post some tool tips or pics and sets of what u guys have being veterans at this. I only have the t bar that came with the m05 and a few Phillips. .pliers and cutters..and now a 2.5 mm because I had to replace the hardware for the control arms. What else is a must?!?!
In situations where you don't have a dedicated "car" area, I think the most important thing to have is a small tool box, so you can put things away, out of sight of the wife, and out of the little kiddies inquiring hands. The best way to really get in trouble is to have one of the kids wandering around with a sharp x-acto.

The next thing is a shelf or shelf unit that you can put up high enough to be "out of the way". As far as the tools themselves a good philips that fits the Japanese philips heads. and a pair of needle nose pliers. A small soldering iron. Then just add stuff as you use them. If you want to know what sets of wrenches etc, I wouldn't know cause my stuff is just a hodge podge of different stuff, some of it the best money can buy and some of it from Harbor Tools or Home depot.
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Old 07-05-2015, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
Hey guys...just thinking can u guys post some tool tips or pics and sets of what u guys have being veterans at this. I only have the t bar that came with the m05 and a few Phillips. .pliers and cutters..and now a 2.5 mm because I had to replace the hardware for the control arms. What else is a must?!?!
If you get the adjustable upper camber links you'll need a very small open spanner to use on those. There are some high quality spanners like that but you might find it difficult to get them (or they'll come in a set of which not much else is useful - for R/C anyway). Have a look around. The aluminium tools you can buy from R/C shops are so and so (they do the job, but are not ideal). I found the ideal tool is one of those open end spanners and if you can get one double ended (straight and oblique) even better. I have a set of these but I got it in Germany, not sure if you could get them.

There are also camber links like that that have a hole for adjusting, but they're not Tamiya, not sure if they would be legal for what you need.

Last edited by niznai; 07-06-2015 at 08:36 AM.
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Old 07-06-2015, 07:13 AM
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If you aren't going to be messing with the camber turnbuckles much, you can use a pair of smooth jaw long nosed pliers to adjust.

Amain has some nice turnbuckle spanners though, if you're interested.
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Granpa
Sometimes, you have to read the question, before you give an answer. He said that he had a bad push using the PS 456 & 452 combination. I'd used that combination quite a bit and never had a really bad push with it so knew that it could be "cured" or improved with some chassis adjustments. Also, you had to know that the chassis was an M05 cause he said his shocks were in the outer hole of the shock tower. The M03 does not have a shock tower.

But as I hit the submit reply button, I knew there were things I may have forgotten cause my wife had distracted me several times during my reply. One you mentioned and that is if the diff is too tight, the car will push. The second thing was if his shocks were built with a high rebound, the car would also push as that would inhibit weight transfer.

Also, as I mentioned in my reply, the effect of altering the toe out's not a settled question and opinions vary. But I, personally, have found toe out adjustments as one of the most important things available to us.

Thanks for the help again. It is a M05, zero rebound, zero toe out. I also backed off throttle on corners which helped cornering.
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 32819toon
Thanks for the help again. It is a M05, zero rebound, zero toe out. I also backed off throttle on corners which helped cornering.
Good job. Often times people start by blaming the car, but chances are drivers (including me) also need to keep an open mind about tweaking your own driving inputs to better match the car's characteristic.
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Old 07-06-2015, 12:26 PM
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Thanks for the tips guys
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Old 07-06-2015, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 32819toon
Thanks for the help again. It is a M05, zero rebound, zero toe out. I also backed off throttle on corners which helped cornering.
Out of curiosity, what did you do before when you got to a corner????? I'd almost always backed off the throttle.

Originally Posted by sakadachi
Good job. Often times people start by blaming the car, but chances are drivers (including me) also need to keep an open mind about tweaking your own driving inputs to better match the car's characteristic.
You're right on this, but my preference has always been to change the car to fit the way I drive. Only the guys with outlandish skills can alter their driving to fit the car. 90% or more of us don't have those kinds of skills----that includes me.
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Old 07-06-2015, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Granpa
Out of curiosity, what did you do before when you got to a corner????? I'd almost always backed off the throttle.
FULL POWER!!!



Seriously, though, let up a little just on corner entry and transfer weight to the front tires. Drag brake can be of use here, as well, if youe ninja driving skills aren't as ninja as the other guys.
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Old 07-06-2015, 01:59 PM
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[QUOTE=Granpa;14083277]Out of curiosity, what did you do before when you got to a corner????? I'd almost always backed off the throttle.

I always have done. I'm a touring car driver so its natural to back off and look for the tight line. What is hard for me with Minis and also GT12 is to look for the smooth entry to keep corner speed up as they don't have the same punch out of corners as touring cars. When the Mini is handling well, I like how you can just power through a long sweeper without fear of it flying off. Mine had too much understeer to do that yesterday.
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Old 07-06-2015, 03:50 PM
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[QUOTE=32819toon;14083407]
Originally Posted by Granpa
Out of curiosity, what did you do before when you got to a corner????? I'd almost always backed off the throttle.

I always have done. I'm a touring car driver so its natural to back off and look for the tight line. What is hard for me with Minis and also GT12 is to look for the smooth entry to keep corner speed up as they don't have the same punch out of corners as touring cars. When the Mini is handling well, I like how you can just power through a long sweeper without fear of it flying off. Mine had too much understeer to do that yesterday.
Driving Minis is a little different. Not harder or easier, just different. Just pay attention to where the weight is and you'll know what to do.
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Old 07-06-2015, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Granpa
You're right on this, but my preference has always been to change the car to fit the way I drive. Only the guys with outlandish skills can alter their driving to fit the car. 90% or more of us don't have those kinds of skills----that includes me.
I'm no expert at driving either, but I switch cars often so I need to switch my driving style too. Like today, I went from M03 to SabreFD Mini to V2 and back to M03 every 10 min for 4hrs with some break here and there while waiting for my charger to finish charging.

It's intimidating when I switch from M-chassis to Mini-Z's (RWD, light weight, very fast with brushless for its size) while I'm waiting for my M-chassis's Lipos to charge. Not only do I switch cars, I switch radio's too so I need to re-caliberate my hand and head completely. But this routine gives me a wide range of driving exposure and practice. And it's fun. I like having different flavors.



Originally Posted by 32819toon
I always have done. I'm a touring car driver so its natural to back off and look for the tight line. What is hard for me with Minis and also GT12 is to look for the smooth entry to keep corner speed up as they don't have the same punch out of corners as touring cars. When the Mini is handling well, I like how you can just power through a long sweeper without fear of it flying off. Mine had too much understeer to do that yesterday.
I have these 4WD M-chassis and they punch out of turns very well.
I think you need to give the car more rake (lower front, raise rear) if you are plowing.
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Old 07-06-2015, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Granpa

Driving Minis is a little different. Not harder or easier, just different. Just pay attention to where the weight is and you'll know what to do.
I find that M03's are very different to drive vs other chassis because I need to apply throttle during a turn where I would not apply while driving my other M-chassis cars.

Someone posted that these cars go fastest when driving wild at its very limit. This is very true imo for M03's. The thing is ready to traction roll or rear kick-out but by applying throttle, the car pulls itself through the turn wicked fast and keeps going.

Honestly the M03 scares me while driving fast on my tiny track using my scuff-less body.
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Old 07-06-2015, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by sakadachi
If you aren't going to be messing with the camber turnbuckles much, you can use a pair of smooth jaw long nosed pliers to adjust.

Amain has some nice turnbuckle spanners though, if you're interested.
You're going to curse your days with the pliers and if you use aluminium turnbuckles you'll probably mash them pretty quickly.
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Old 07-07-2015, 04:49 AM
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Originally Posted by niznai
You're going to curse your days with the pliers and if you use aluminium turnbuckles you'll probably mash them pretty quickly.
Negative. Not if you use the right needle nose and take one's time.
Nickel plated steel spanners can also do the same on aluminum if care is not used, more so than smooth jaw pliers. This is only a suggestion if one does not adjust frequently.
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Old 07-07-2015, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by sakadachi
Negative. Not if you use the right needle nose and take one's time.
Nickel plated steel spanners can also do the same on aluminum if care is not used, more so than smooth jaw pliers. This is only a suggestion if one does not adjust frequently.
A good tool used correctly for the job it was designed to do doesn't leave any marks.
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