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Old 09-09-2009, 06:04 PM
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I just wonder how their quality stacks up...
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Old 09-09-2009, 07:03 PM
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has anybody here tried this car with foam tyres on carpet?
I'll be trying it myself next week
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Old 09-09-2009, 10:43 PM
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I haven't run foams on carpet with the car yet. A couple tips that might help make things go better would be the 2.5mm thick chassis, and possibly doubling up the upper decks to try to make the car more ridgid. Hope it goes well for you!
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Old 09-09-2009, 10:49 PM
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I notice some shops sell the plastic chubs. You will find them cheap for around $2ish. Then they sell the carbon reinforced chubs around $4ish. Just be sure the package says reinforced. You'll also find cheap LW arm set like this too. I think they are around $7 for a full set. But they are plastic. Not the reinforced ones we normally have for like $8ish for 1 front and 1 rear. So becareful what you buy.
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Old 09-10-2009, 12:35 AM
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I'm almost done with my car and I'm stuck on the shocks on page 13 section 19. When building the shocks there is a plastic washer BJ7 that has a sunk grove, does the side with the sunk grove go inside the shock body or does it go the other way on the O ring side?

Thanks David
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Old 09-10-2009, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by begintravel55
I notice some shops sell the plastic chubs. You will find them cheap for around $2ish. Then they sell the carbon reinforced chubs around $4ish. Just be sure the package says reinforced. You'll also find cheap LW arm set like this too. I think they are around $7 for a full set. But they are plastic. Not the reinforced ones we normally have for like $8ish for 1 front and 1 rear. So becareful what you buy.
Actually the plastic c-hubs are a bit of a tuning tip... going with the plastic (softer) ones actually yields a bit more steering, and they are also more reliable (they flex rather than snap!)....
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by entitymugenmtx
I'm almost done with my car and I'm stuck on the shocks on page 13 section 19. When building the shocks there is a plastic washer BJ7 that has a sunk grove, does the side with the sunk grove go inside the shock body or does it go the other way on the O ring side?

Thanks David
I'm not sure if it matters since they don't specify in the manual which way that groove should go, but I always have it facing down at the o-ring. I figured, if nothing else it might hold a small amount of oil that will help lubricate the o-ring.
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Old 09-10-2009, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster
I'm not sure if it matters since they don't specify in the manual which way that groove should go, but I always have it facing down at the o-ring. I figured, if nothing else it might hold a small amount of oil that will help lubricate the o-ring.
Cool thanks a lot Randy
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Old 09-10-2009, 04:55 PM
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Anytime.

Hope that WCRC setup I sent you works out well.
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Old 09-10-2009, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster
I'm not sure if it matters since they don't specify in the manual which way that groove should go, but I always have it facing down at the o-ring. I figured, if nothing else it might hold a small amount of oil that will help lubricate the o-ring.
That groove must be an update they put in around the same time as the 416. I rebuilt 2 sets of shocks last week and noticed one set had the groove and the other set didn't.
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Old 09-10-2009, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by veecee
That groove must be an update they put in around the same time as the 416. I rebuilt 2 sets of shocks last week and noticed one set had the groove and the other set didn't.
416WC
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Old 09-10-2009, 09:48 PM
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The guy from Atomic is here at IIC and has those shafts on display in his booth. They look very nicely made, though I'm not sure of the durability.

Ampdraw has a grip of Tamiya parts sorted into different bags, so rifling through them to find parts and goodies has been lots of fun. I need to check out more of the stuff tomorrow. I just love that those guys are trying to really stay on top of Tamiya parts.

I'm doing okay I guess. Sitting 3rd overall in amateur (17.5) after two rounds, but struggling in 13.5 a bit. I can click off fast laps pretty regularly, but putting it together in a run has eluded me fairly well thus far. I'm fighting a push (lots of people are) as the traction comes up that's been hard to conquer. I'm gonna try some stiffer parts to get the car to rotate better rather than rely on more throw, 'cause that's very hard to drive.

The TRF team isn't here, though nobody has said why. They were signed up, so who knows what happened. All the major brands are pretty well represented here with their teams, some of which seem to have 20+ guys. Unfortunately, there's not a whole lot of action on the Tamiya front, just two other guys I've spotted with 416's in the crowd. Kind of a bummer considering there's 80 entries in 13.5 rubber alone, and the onsite shop is the most Tamiya friendly place in the states.
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Old 09-10-2009, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
The TRF team isn't here, though nobody has said why. They were signed up, so who knows what happened. All the major brands are pretty well represented here with their teams, some of which seem to have 20+ guys. Unfortunately, there's not a whole lot of action on the Tamiya front, just two other guys I've spotted with 416's in the crowd. Kind of a bummer considering there's 80 entries in 13.5 rubber alone, and the onsite shop is the most Tamiya friendly place in the states.
Can you introduce yourself to Hupo, and maybe ask him a couple of questions on what direction you should go. I know he is just racing 1/12th and expert WGT but still, he might have an idea or two.
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Old 09-10-2009, 09:54 PM
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Do those Atomic shafts look like fitting through the standard C-hubs? And best of luck at the IIC mate.
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Old 09-10-2009, 10:11 PM
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The shafts seem like they fit through the standard c-hubs, but he doesn't have them mounted in the car, just has one on display. He said they're not quite ready to go in the car yet, the best I could tell. His accent is very thick.

I'm actually kind of sitting next to Hupo. He seems very busy with his pan cars though, so I'd hate to bother him. He's been wrenching very hard the entire weekend. I'll see if there's a good time to bug him.

I'm going to try the original 416 chassis and top deck tomorrow and see if that frees the car up over the WE versions. It definitely does on our home track (which has high bite) but I'm finding setup changes here to be somewhat different than what we get at home. I'm also doing to ditch the soft c-hubs I think. They seem to really help in low traction, but as the bite comes up and the car leans more, it feels inconsistent.
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