4LikesTamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
04-05-2009, 03:20 AM
#4997
Does the same on teh balls too... the slight key put into the surface of the rings (which is why you shoudl use 1000grit+) allows you to use less pressue on the diff, but it grips just as well.
Result = a very free but none slipping diff
taken from my site...
Building one with this technique, I've had my diff stay very free, but still tight, for months now... only just getting round to a rebuild now
HiH
Ed
Result = a very free but none slipping diff
taken from my site...
Uber Diff
Follow these simply steps to achieve a very smooth, but tight diff.
Sand Diff rings with 1000grit wet dry. This provides a key on the surface for the balls to grip, allowing a looser setting, without slip.
Use JAAD Racing 3mm Ceramic balls (JDRDB300) and ceramic thrust race (JDRCT0206), using Associated black stealth grease on thrust, and Schumacher diff grease. Ceramic balls are very hard and long lasting, and will stay the smooth for a very long time. The Associated grease is recognised as the best for thrust bearings, and the same goes for the Schumacher diff grease and the diff balls.
Cover with JAAD Racing diff covers (JDRTA0502). These keep the dirt out extremely well, avoiding your diff becoming gritty due to dirt between the rings, pulleys and balls. Remember to apply some grease to the region where the cover comes very close to the diff half, to avoid any binding in the diff action. To help avoid collecting any dirt in the out drives and thrust bearing, plug the long diff end with a foam pad (one of the red foams from the shocks works well), and tape over the hole for the diff setting screw. This will keep all the dirt out, and you won’t have to rebuild your uber smooth diff for a long time.
Follow these simply steps to achieve a very smooth, but tight diff.
Sand Diff rings with 1000grit wet dry. This provides a key on the surface for the balls to grip, allowing a looser setting, without slip.
Use JAAD Racing 3mm Ceramic balls (JDRDB300) and ceramic thrust race (JDRCT0206), using Associated black stealth grease on thrust, and Schumacher diff grease. Ceramic balls are very hard and long lasting, and will stay the smooth for a very long time. The Associated grease is recognised as the best for thrust bearings, and the same goes for the Schumacher diff grease and the diff balls.
Cover with JAAD Racing diff covers (JDRTA0502). These keep the dirt out extremely well, avoiding your diff becoming gritty due to dirt between the rings, pulleys and balls. Remember to apply some grease to the region where the cover comes very close to the diff half, to avoid any binding in the diff action. To help avoid collecting any dirt in the out drives and thrust bearing, plug the long diff end with a foam pad (one of the red foams from the shocks works well), and tape over the hole for the diff setting screw. This will keep all the dirt out, and you won’t have to rebuild your uber smooth diff for a long time.
HiH
Ed
04-05-2009, 10:06 AM
#4998
Hi guys, I'm gonna be building my 416WE this week. I'll want to run it in Stock, as in 540 Johnson stock 
, but any setup/build help will be great!
I'm mostly running foam on tarmac, so any set-up help will be great
Thanks
, but any setup/build help will be great! I'm mostly running foam on tarmac, so any set-up help will be great
Thanks
04-05-2009, 12:39 PM
#4999
Tech Master
Originally Posted by Ricky/C
Hi guys, I'm gonna be building my 416WE this week. I'll want to run it in Stock, as in 540 Johnson stock , but any setup/build help will be great!
I'm mostly running foam on tarmac, so any set-up help will be great Thanks
, but any setup/build help will be great! I'm mostly running foam on tarmac, so any set-up help will be great
Thanks
04-05-2009, 01:18 PM
#5000
when driving stock you might consider running a one-way instead of a spool.
Problem is that the WE is build around a Spool and you micht have oversteer when driving the One-way.
I haven't been able to find a good setup for the one-way, unfortunatly, for the 416 WE, when driving in a 27T-motor-class.
When driving in competition in the morning, when tracgtion and grip was low, the car went ok, but I always had to switch to the Spool because there came more grip on the track and the car became seriously oversteered.
Problem is that the WE is build around a Spool and you micht have oversteer when driving the One-way.
I haven't been able to find a good setup for the one-way, unfortunatly, for the 416 WE, when driving in a 27T-motor-class.
When driving in competition in the morning, when tracgtion and grip was low, the car went ok, but I always had to switch to the Spool because there came more grip on the track and the car became seriously oversteered.
04-05-2009, 02:36 PM
#5001
Originally Posted by redbones
you might have problems installing a silver can in that car...
Originally Posted by Low_E
when driving stock you might consider running a one-way instead of a spool.
Problem is that the WE is build around a Spool and you micht have oversteer when driving the One-way.
I haven't been able to find a good setup for the one-way, unfortunatly, for the 416 WE, when driving in a 27T-motor-class.
When driving in competition in the morning, when tracgtion and grip was low, the car went ok, but I always had to switch to the Spool because there came more grip on the track and the car became seriously oversteered.
Problem is that the WE is build around a Spool and you micht have oversteer when driving the One-way.
I haven't been able to find a good setup for the one-way, unfortunatly, for the 416 WE, when driving in a 27T-motor-class.
When driving in competition in the morning, when tracgtion and grip was low, the car went ok, but I always had to switch to the Spool because there came more grip on the track and the car became seriously oversteered.
04-05-2009, 06:20 PM
#5002
Originally Posted by Ricky/C
I'll want to run it in Stock, as in 540 Johnson stock
Originally Posted by redbones
you might have problems installing a silver can in that car...
Originally Posted by John St.Amant
The silver can should fit no problem.
The motor mount on the 416 only has a small hole for the input shaft of the motor. The hole is not big enough to fit a silvercan motor because the silvercan motor has the raised portion around the input shaft. You will have to widen the hole to fit it.
04-05-2009, 07:50 PM
#5003
Originally Posted by miccal
Another example of a John St.Amant incorrect statement!
The motor mount on the 416 only has a small hole for the input shaft of the motor. The hole is not big enough to fit a silvercan motor because the silvercan motor has the raised portion around the input shaft. You will have to widen the hole to fit it.
The motor mount on the 416 only has a small hole for the input shaft of the motor. The hole is not big enough to fit a silvercan motor because the silvercan motor has the raised portion around the input shaft. You will have to widen the hole to fit it.
04-05-2009, 10:00 PM
#5005
Originally Posted by B18C Turbo
are the short reversible arms shorter than stock? will it affect width?
Yes, it does.
04-05-2009, 10:13 PM
#5006
Hey 416ers! quick update from the weekend
I built my car up using the base asphalt setup from Jilles Groskamp (but with HPI springs) and man did it hook up. I took out TQ at the interclub round at my home track and went on to second overall. I took the win in the first main, got in a bit of trouble in A2 but came back to 2nd, but nerves and lack of driving prowess got to me in A3
I dunno how the pros do it! Still a great day & everyone was saying how dialled my car looked 
BC18, the short arms will make your track narrower which is why they are normally used with wider suspension blocks compared with the 416 (non-WE) kit
I built my car up using the base asphalt setup from Jilles Groskamp (but with HPI springs) and man did it hook up. I took out TQ at the interclub round at my home track and went on to second overall. I took the win in the first main, got in a bit of trouble in A2 but came back to 2nd, but nerves and lack of driving prowess got to me in A3
I dunno how the pros do it! Still a great day & everyone was saying how dialled my car looked BC18, the short arms will make your track narrower which is why they are normally used with wider suspension blocks compared with the 416 (non-WE) kit
04-05-2009, 10:53 PM
#5007
Originally Posted by TryHard
Does the same on teh balls too... the slight key put into the surface of the rings (which is why you shoudl use 1000grit+) allows you to use less pressue on the diff, but it grips just as well.
Result = a very free but none slipping diff
taken from my site...
Building one with this technique, I've had my diff stay very free, but still tight, for months now... only just getting round to a rebuild now
HiH
Ed
Result = a very free but none slipping diff
taken from my site...
Building one with this technique, I've had my diff stay very free, but still tight, for months now... only just getting round to a rebuild now
HiH
Ed
What do u mean by "wet dry"?
04-05-2009, 11:43 PM
#5009
Originally Posted by CraigM
Hey 416ers! quick update from the weekend
I built my car up using the base asphalt setup from Jilles Groskamp (but with HPI springs) and man did it hook up. I took out TQ at the interclub round at my home track and went on to second overall. I took the win in the first main, got in a bit of trouble in A2 but came back to 2nd, but nerves and lack of driving prowess got to me in A3 I dunno how the pros do it! Still a great day & everyone was saying how dialled my car looked
BC18, the short arms will make your track narrower which is why they are normally used with wider suspension blocks compared with the 416 (non-WE) kit
I built my car up using the base asphalt setup from Jilles Groskamp (but with HPI springs) and man did it hook up. I took out TQ at the interclub round at my home track and went on to second overall. I took the win in the first main, got in a bit of trouble in A2 but came back to 2nd, but nerves and lack of driving prowess got to me in A3
I dunno how the pros do it! Still a great day & everyone was saying how dialled my car looked BC18, the short arms will make your track narrower which is why they are normally used with wider suspension blocks compared with the 416 (non-WE) kit
