649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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10-05-2017, 03:04 PM
#7412
I just picked up a club racer on impulse. Hobby shop had a good deal but I am reading now I may have got one wrong for turf. But I will live with it, I am a B/C main sort of guy and not trying to conquer the world. I paid $330 and needed a motor/ESC anyways.
Oh well, I now ordered laydown conversion, gear diff and gullwing arms and tower.
I also got the 30g brass bulkhead and other than that was going to build and see what happens but the ball diff is my biggest wonder?
Who has run turf with the standup and ball diff might be a better question. Should I even bother to build this way or just put the new parts on?
Oh well, I now ordered laydown conversion, gear diff and gullwing arms and tower.
I also got the 30g brass bulkhead and other than that was going to build and see what happens but the ball diff is my biggest wonder?
Who has run turf with the standup and ball diff might be a better question. Should I even bother to build this way or just put the new parts on?
Last edited by Teamrule; 10-05-2017 at 07:13 PM.
10-05-2017, 07:46 PM
#7413
I just picked up a club racer on impulse. Hobby shop had a good deal but I am reading now I may have got one wrong for turf. But I will live with it, I am a B/C main sort of guy and not trying to conquer the world. I paid $330 and needed a motor/ESC anyways.
Oh well, I now ordered laydown conversion, gear diff and gullwing arms and tower.
I also got the 30g brass bulkhead and other than that was going to build and see what happens but the ball diff is my biggest wonder?
Who has run turf with the standup and ball diff might be a better question. Should I even bother to build this way or just put the new parts on?
Oh well, I now ordered laydown conversion, gear diff and gullwing arms and tower.
I also got the 30g brass bulkhead and other than that was going to build and see what happens but the ball diff is my biggest wonder?
Who has run turf with the standup and ball diff might be a better question. Should I even bother to build this way or just put the new parts on?
Keep that ride height low (18-20mm) and get some stiff springs, heavy oil, and 1.6 pistons front, 1.7 rear. That should put you in a good place to start. Have fun!
10-05-2017, 08:09 PM
#7414
That's what I figured. 5000 good diff oil to start with?
10-06-2017, 12:41 AM
#7416
also work. There was a whole debate on b6 nation about running the 67mm bones
without the offset hubs. I personally don't recomend it as you could hear them bind
at full compression. Some guys run them and have 0 issues.
10-06-2017, 05:44 AM
#7417
Phillip, additionally please make sure you are running the correct shock eyelets on your rear shocks, and that you have the proper amount of shock limiters inside the shock.
10-06-2017, 10:28 AM
#7418
Tech Regular
Copying Neil craggs setup for the regional series caused my driveshafts to pop out. Running the ball diff it was not a problem but changing to a geared diff caused them to fall out due to it being 1.5mm narrower.
That's b5m shocks, geared diff, long eyelet, 3rd hole in wishbone, 28mm shock length, pils in centre all round, gearbox raised 2mm.
That's b5m shocks, geared diff, long eyelet, 3rd hole in wishbone, 28mm shock length, pils in centre all round, gearbox raised 2mm.
10-06-2017, 10:46 AM
#7419
Tech Master
iTrader: (49)
Copying Neil craggs setup for the regional series caused my driveshafts to pop out. Running the ball diff it was not a problem but changing to a geared diff caused them to fall out due to it being 1.5mm narrower.
That's b5m shocks, geared diff, long eyelet, 3rd hole in wishbone, 28mm shock length, pils in centre all round, gearbox raised 2mm.
That's b5m shocks, geared diff, long eyelet, 3rd hole in wishbone, 28mm shock length, pils in centre all round, gearbox raised 2mm.
Long rear shocks, Long Eyelets without the Long rear Tower is too much droop
10-06-2017, 10:28 PM
#7420
If you run the wider pill settings you need the ASC91605 cva shims. The MIP shims
also work. There was a whole debate on b6 nation about running the 67mm bones
without the offset hubs. I personally don't recomend it as you could hear them bind
at full compression. Some guys run them and have 0 issues.
also work. There was a whole debate on b6 nation about running the 67mm bones
without the offset hubs. I personally don't recomend it as you could hear them bind
at full compression. Some guys run them and have 0 issues.
Copying Neil craggs setup for the regional series caused my driveshafts to pop out. Running the ball diff it was not a problem but changing to a geared diff caused them to fall out due to it being 1.5mm narrower.
That's b5m shocks, geared diff, long eyelet, 3rd hole in wishbone, 28mm shock length, pils in centre all round, gearbox raised 2mm.
That's b5m shocks, geared diff, long eyelet, 3rd hole in wishbone, 28mm shock length, pils in centre all round, gearbox raised 2mm.
I added the shims but it caused binding. I took the shims out and just lessen the droop from 27.5mm to 26mm. CVA bones stopped popping out.
10-07-2017, 03:02 AM
#7423
Insert the large rear bearing
slide the large spacer onto the axle
Insert the axle into the rear bearing, the large spacer should be on the outside
between the bearing and axle shoulder
From the other side slide the small shim over the axle
Install the outer bearing
install pin and Hex.
10-07-2017, 05:20 AM
#7424
Quick question:
+3 on the rear hub inserts, are the hubs sitting high or low?
+3 on the rear hub inserts, are the hubs sitting high or low?
10-07-2017, 08:10 AM
#7425
All this hub/bearing/axle insert crap is irritating. It’d be nice if they just made some stuff that worked with less screwing around. eg: if I buy some axles and I buy some hubs, they should just go together without any need for posting questions, or buying third party parts. Maybe their instruction sheets just suck?
EDIT: Sorry. It was early and I was CRANKY.
EDIT: Sorry. It was early and I was CRANKY.
Last edited by monkeyracing; 10-08-2017 at 12:12 AM.