psycho02

iTrader: (14)

What does the long shock rear setup do for the car?

ray_munday

iTrader: (4)

Compared to on-road cars, off road is much less sensitive to tweak as the springs are softer and the cars are heavier. However if there is significant tweak it will have a noticeable effect on jumping straight (especially if you have different down travel). Making sure your chassis is flat, setting springs equally, re-bleeding shocks and using calipers to set shock length equally is a good start, but if you have access to corner weights you can use them to get the least tweak in case of springs that aren't perfectly matched in length.

On the bumpy dirt tracks we have here in Australia, it improved rear traction a lot over sharp bumps and also seems to land a little more plush.

Ray

freezeframe007

Let me start by saying that I am new to the B6 party. I have been racing 2wd for the past year though. I have been running a T5m 17.5 and SC5m. I also built a B5m CE 17.5. The stock buggy hasn't seen much action since the class hasn't had any support and got off the ground. So, I have only taken it to the track and practiced with it. I did manage to run it a couple times with the mod guys cuz they didn't have enough to run a class.

Now back to the B6...I recently bought and built a B6d kit. I built it box stock with the exception of the shocks. I did put 30wt in all four corners. However, I put green front springs on and Kyo white in the rear. No hop ups or mods at this point.

I have read through the first 277 pages of this thread but, I haven't caught up quite yet. I currently run on a club track that is probably considered small and tight. The surface is a clay compound for the most part. It can range from loose and a bit damp in the morning for practice and 1st qual...to med-high bite blue groove by second qual and mains. We typically run small pin (hole shot) type to dirt web, hybrid, reflex when the groove is up.

I have ran about 6 packs through this buggy thus far. I am really liking the way if feels and handles. Like most...I am always looking for it to get even better...LOL. I am thinking that the first mod I make will be the 31mm shock bodies on the rear and the long tower? I just want to get some clarification on what to expect from this change? Also, when I rebuild the shocks, what are the specifics with regard to stroke, spacers, etc? Without any changes in the build, I would think the overall shock would be longer even if I set the stroke the same? Do I have that correct? Do, I remove the spacer/s or adjust the stroke? I get the increased damping effect based on increased oil volume. Lastly, do I need to change the spring rate if I am relatively content with the way the car handles to compensate for the change?

I know this is long and I am seeking a lot of info on this subject. Feel free to message me directly

chevmaro

iTrader: (25)

The taller rear tower will account for the increased length of shock body. Both shocks short and long use the same shock shaft length, so your up/down travel will remain the same.

If I understand correctly, the long shock has more oil volume on top of the piston.

freezeframe007

If I decide to use this tuneup option...would the 91498 shock kit be the right item? My plan would be to completely build the shocks so that I would have both sets in the event I wanted to switch back to the stock setup for some reason. I thought I read somewhere that you could just pull the rear shocks off the b5m and put them with the long tower on the b6d and be done. If that is correct, then this shock package would get me there and all I would need would b the long tower? Is this correct? Also, still looking for more feedback on my last post...

Chris Brown

iTrader: (19)

The b5m rear shock bolt right up to the b6 with the rear tower.

freezeframe007

If I completely build a laydown tranny to include ball diff, top shaft and slipper, can I just unbolt the motor, swap the tranny and reset the mesh? Would this be the quickest way to make a tuning change and get the car back on the track? I am already in the process of procuring the long tower and complete pair of 31mm shocks. Is it just that easy or am I missing something else?

jmcelroy42

iTrader: (10)

If you run the laydown with shocks on the rear yes this should be all you need.
Otherwise I would probably add another tower, shock standoffs & wing mount to the spare tranny too.

freezeframe007

When using one of these anaylizers is the 6.0a target used for all motors? I.e. 21.5, 17.5, 13.5, 10.5, 7.5, 5.5 etc? I notice that the video shows 2s battery with 1/10 motors. I guess you wouldn't use this 1/8 systems cuz I have never seen a truggy or buggy motor with a timing adjustment? Or, a SC specific motor for that matter...

PorTX

iTrader: (4)

Got 2 B6's. One race night and 2 practice days on the 17.5. Broken front shock tower. On the mod buggy B6...got 3 batteries through it and same front broken shock tower. Both cars broke at the same angle on the same side, inside the inner most shock hole. Was running both cars on the middle hole. Figured it would break there if it did but, nope. Broke them both exactly the same at an odd angle near the inner hole. Hopefully my local hobby shop can get me replacements in time for racing Saturday. They were out of stock tonight.

chevmaro

iTrader: (25)

For spec racing yes. Not required for mod motors. For mod, tune endbell for feel.

JsK

iTrader: (10)

Almost always the result of driving under pipes. Schelle makes a 5mm tower
without the outer holes since there never used.

joncmack

iTrader: (31)

I've found most higher turn motors (13.5 and 17.5) in off road aren't actually optimal at 6.0 amps. Depending on track size, I've found anything between 2.2-3 amps is better to allow the torque needed....but that's just my experience (and this is using a skyRC motor analyzer)

caioz1jp

Can anyone recommend a servo horn, 24T for hitech, that will work with the B6D. Tried the TLR but it did not clear.

SlashBash10

iTrader: (2)

https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...821-bk/p480542