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Team Associated B6 & B6D thread

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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 05-19-2017, 03:25 AM
  #6616  
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At my closest track I think people have pretty much switched over to the B6 or B6D.
I see a few B5M's but only a few. I was the first guy there with a B6D.
I'm getting close to racing this car for a year coming in November.
Havent got a win yet but I got 3rd place once. Ive been going to race on Sundays
and ill run the car again this Sunday. A lot of faster guys much better than me raced
2 weeks ago, and I placed 6th outa 7 cars. They threw us all together at the Amain.
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Old 05-19-2017, 10:08 AM
  #6617  
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Hey is some pictures of my buggy at 1390 to 1510 with all weight balanced & where I want it.
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-img_0380.jpg   Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-img_0379.jpg   Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-img_0378.jpg  
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Old 05-19-2017, 12:53 PM
  #6618  
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Originally Posted by PHIL700XCSP
What ride height are you running?
Low. Bones are level, if not a bit of sag. Not currently measuring so I don't have an exact figure.
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Old 05-19-2017, 06:17 PM
  #6619  
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Originally Posted by Kakenballs
Hey is some pictures of my buggy at 1390 to 1510 with all weight balanced & where I want it.
Do those 5 series ball cups save much weight?
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Old 05-19-2017, 07:55 PM
  #6620  
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Wanted to ask if anyone is running those 175rc polypro pinions that are alum hub with the poly gear section. I am running 17.5 on high bite carpet so figured it should work out just fine.
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Old 05-20-2017, 04:18 AM
  #6621  
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Originally Posted by SlashBash10
Do those 5 series ball cups save much weight?
No
Originally Posted by Slapjack
Wanted to ask if anyone is running those 175rc polypro pinions that are alum hub with the poly gear section. I am running 17.5 on high bite carpet so figured it should work out just fine.
They will work fine.
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Old 05-20-2017, 06:07 AM
  #6622  
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Unhappy Astroturf Racing

My local track is switching over to astroturf and I am wondering how fast do the tires wear on an astroturf track???? Am I going to be replacing tires every week ?
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Old 05-20-2017, 06:11 AM
  #6623  
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Originally Posted by Johnn27
My local track is switching over to astroturf and I am wondering how fast do the tires wear on an astroturf track???? Am I going to be replacing tires every week ?
Just about, my acetone bucket is consistently being used. I found that the proline wear the best but I like the feel of the Jconcepts tires.
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Old 05-20-2017, 09:39 AM
  #6624  
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In the UK using multiple sets of rear tyres per meeting is not uncommon to be competitive
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Old 05-20-2017, 12:04 PM
  #6625  
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I occasionally race on astro. The go to tyre is the Schumacher darts in yellow, after one meeting of six races there is minimal wear. I think they should last three meetings.
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Old 05-20-2017, 06:45 PM
  #6626  
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Originally Posted by Johnn27
My local track is switching over to astroturf and I am wondering how fast do the tires wear on an astroturf track???? Am I going to be replacing tires every week ?
Schumacher rears are 10 bucks a pair. Reuse the open cell inserts 2-3 times.

At worst your fronts will last 3-4 races and you will be replacing rears every race
day.

Yellow compound blocks will last about twice as long as MiniDarts Or Pins

Jconcepts and Prolines are stupid expensive for what they are.
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Old 05-20-2017, 08:38 PM
  #6627  
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Originally Posted by jabroni racing
I have a General tranny question.3gear trans, I plan on racing both 17.5t class and mod class, probably a 7.5t for example purposes. If i leave the 69 spur for the 17.5 setting per manual gear chart, can i just use a lower pinion for the 7.5 and if so, is there a difference is how the car will feel with the smaller pinion & spur for the mod?? formula i used was tranny 2.60x69(spur) divided by pinion(18) i came up with 9.96 any insight would be greatly appreciated..
There is already a fair amount of work involved in swapping the motor (unless your using bullet connectors. You already have the tranny cover off for that and the pinion change. At that point, I don't know why you just don't pull the slipper nut and swap the spur to a combo that is more recommended for mod. Keep in mind the name of the game is lighter is better in stock. With that in mind, most folks run the cut gears in the tranny, possibly a slipper eliminator (high bite), light-weight drivetrain parts, etc (many of which are not ideal for mod class). You could run the cut gears and the slipper eliminator and pass on the puck system. If you were to do that, I would probably just build another tranny with cut gears, lightweight outdrives, slipper eliminator and just swap the whole tranny when you pull the motor...its only a couple more minutes...you have to reset the mesh anyway when you swap the pinion. Then you got the best of both worlds...IMHO anyway
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Old 05-21-2017, 04:39 AM
  #6628  
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First day out with the new b6. Going well and handles the bumpy astro 100x better than the KC.

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Old 05-22-2017, 09:54 PM
  #6629  
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Originally Posted by SlashBash10
Do those 5 series ball cups save much weight?
No just better plastic & easier to use a hex driver on for quick adjustments.
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Old 05-22-2017, 10:02 PM
  #6630  
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Does anyone know if chassis tweak is useful in off-road? I made a few adjustments on the weight of the buggy back to legal weight & for the front to rear bias I wanted which is 38 62. I've always used calipers to set ride height & shock collar spring tension evenly. If no feedback will post info.
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