649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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10-31-2016, 04:08 PM
#4127
Tech Adept
He didn't say or do anything wrong to be honest. He simply stated that he would like someone with the same setup to answer instead of someone without knowledge of the exact same setup. He didn't name call or be rude in any way. In fact he even thanked for the input. And yes he did try and help but he was apparently unaware that you could use gear diffs with the MIP setup so he was giving input on something he didn't even know you could do.
10-31-2016, 07:11 PM
#4128
He didn't say or do anything wrong to be honest. He simply stated that he would like someone with the same setup to answer instead of someone without knowledge of the exact same setup. He didn't name call or be rude in any way. In fact he even thanked for the input. And yes he did try and help but he was apparently unaware that you could use gear diffs with the MIP setup so he was giving input on something he didn't even know you could do.
So since I don't run gear diffs with my pucks, even though I am pretty sure I know whats wrong, I won't tell him the solution to his problem.
11-01-2016, 05:48 AM
#4129
Tech Elite
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Rear Hubs??
Ok finally started my B6d build and I am wondering about rear hubs ?
Is there a newer version aluminum rear hub for the B6 buggies that racers are using or should I just vulture them off my B5M
Is there a newer version aluminum rear hub for the B6 buggies that racers are using or should I just vulture them off my B5M
11-01-2016, 06:29 AM
#4130
I've reached out to the folks at MIP regarding this, and borrowed some pics from that ppt to use here for illustration purposes.
Here is a comparision of the driveshafts, MIP vs AE
Here is a pick showing the dogbone ears with the suspension at full extension. While this is IMO less than ideal it's not where the problem occurs as others have alluded too.
Here is where the engagement issue presents itself. This is with the rear suspension half way compressed.
This last on is self explanatory.
For those who are wondering:
Here is a comparision of the driveshafts, MIP vs AE
Here is a pick showing the dogbone ears with the suspension at full extension. While this is IMO less than ideal it's not where the problem occurs as others have alluded too.
Here is where the engagement issue presents itself. This is with the rear suspension half way compressed.
This last on is self explanatory.
For those who are wondering:
11-01-2016, 06:53 AM
#4133
11-01-2016, 07:13 AM
#4134
He didnt name call, you're right. But just because someone doesn't run that exact same set up doesn't mean they dont know the answer.
So since I don't run gear diffs with my pucks, even though I am pretty sure I know whats wrong, I won't tell him the solution to his problem.
So since I don't run gear diffs with my pucks, even though I am pretty sure I know whats wrong, I won't tell him the solution to his problem.
11-01-2016, 08:26 AM
#4135
Tech Elite
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11-01-2016, 10:23 AM
#4137
PSA
Tech support at MIP states:
"Gear diff outdrives not compatible with bi-metal 17.5 drive system. Only roller pucks are compatible with gear diff, which are a different length"
Tech support at MIP states:
"Gear diff outdrives not compatible with bi-metal 17.5 drive system. Only roller pucks are compatible with gear diff, which are a different length"
11-01-2016, 10:27 AM
#4138
Hey guys.. I just raced my B6 this past weekend and did pretty well with it. I have two questions and please forgive me if this was already covered.
1. How many of you seal your CF parts and chassis? I never have before and my front shock tower cracked.
2. I had the rear driver side doggone pop out twice and was wondering what can be done to fix it? Shimming towards the hub or limiters in the shocks?
Thanks!
1. How many of you seal your CF parts and chassis? I never have before and my front shock tower cracked.
2. I had the rear driver side doggone pop out twice and was wondering what can be done to fix it? Shimming towards the hub or limiters in the shocks?
Thanks!
11-01-2016, 10:36 AM
#4139
Hey guys.. I just raced my B6 this past weekend and did pretty well with it. I have two questions and please forgive me if this was already covered.
1. How many of you seal your CF parts and chassis? I never have before and my front shock tower cracked.
2. I had the rear driver side doggone pop out twice and was wondering what can be done to fix it? Shimming towards the hub or limiters in the shocks?
Thanks!
1. How many of you seal your CF parts and chassis? I never have before and my front shock tower cracked.
2. I had the rear driver side doggone pop out twice and was wondering what can be done to fix it? Shimming towards the hub or limiters in the shocks?
Thanks!
As far as the towers go, sanding removes the sharp edges and should let the tower slide more and "catch" less. This helps to reduce the force on the tower. As far as CA goes....the top of the tower is not perfectly smooth, you can fell the ridges. sanding should also remove these, but the CA just adds a little more protection. Does the CA help the tower last longer? Unsure, but it does not hurt.....