649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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07-22-2016, 10:42 AM
#1861
Technical this or that, this language that language (I say Google terms you don't understand)..."racist", give me a break
At the end of the day, just ask yourself. "What would Wildcherry say?"
The answer...Nobody knows, most people can't read "smoke"..except maybe Cheech and Chong.
At the end of the day, just ask yourself. "What would Wildcherry say?"
The answer...Nobody knows, most people can't read "smoke"..except maybe Cheech and Chong.
LOLOLOLOLO, this is Tooo funny
What Would WildCherry say!!!
Seriously laughed hard,, THANKS
07-22-2016, 11:08 AM
#1863
Technical this or that, this language that language (I say Google terms you don't understand)..."racist", give me a break
At the end of the day, just ask yourself. "What would Wildcherry say?"
The answer...Nobody knows, most people can't read "smoke"..except maybe Cheech and Chong.
At the end of the day, just ask yourself. "What would Wildcherry say?"
The answer...Nobody knows, most people can't read "smoke"..except maybe Cheech and Chong.
Either. Do you prefer easy and quick access to fine adjustments, or do you prefer ease of maintenance?
My rule of thumb is usually the bumpier the track, the more you lean towards a ball diff. The smoother the track, the more you lean towards a gear diff. We have guys that run both, and honestly, they do equally well.
07-22-2016, 11:22 AM
#1865
It will make the diff lighter,
It will also lesson the effect of centrifugal sling of viscous fluid...
Meaning the faster the diff spins , the more fluid spins into the gears,, the faster the diff spins the more the fluid works to inhibit the gears..
Removing a set of gear will lesson this effect... I feel it makes it through sweeper way better this way..
It will also lesson the effect of centrifugal sling of viscous fluid...
Meaning the faster the diff spins , the more fluid spins into the gears,, the faster the diff spins the more the fluid works to inhibit the gears..
Removing a set of gear will lesson this effect... I feel it makes it through sweeper way better this way..
07-22-2016, 11:24 AM
#1866
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IMO, for Stock, Ball diff. For the sole reason of rotating mass. But I don't know what a gear diff weighs with 2 spider gears and a pin removed. And you still have to fill that void with more fluid, again I don't know the weight difference between that and a ball diff.
07-22-2016, 11:38 AM
#1867
IMO, for Stock, Ball diff. For the sole reason of rotating mass. But I don't know what a gear diff weighs with 2 spider gears and a pin removed. And you still have to fill that void with more fluid, again I don't know the weight difference between that and a ball diff.
However, my ball diffs are around 14 grams, and there's NO way a gear diff can get that low.
07-22-2016, 11:42 AM
#1869
07-22-2016, 12:52 PM
#1870
07-22-2016, 12:52 PM
#1871
It will make the diff lighter,
It will also lesson the effect of centrifugal sling of viscous fluid...
Meaning the faster the diff spins , the more fluid spins into the gears,, the faster the diff spins the more the fluid works to inhibit the gears..
Removing a set of gear will lesson this effect... I feel it makes it through sweeper way better this way..
It will also lesson the effect of centrifugal sling of viscous fluid...
Meaning the faster the diff spins , the more fluid spins into the gears,, the faster the diff spins the more the fluid works to inhibit the gears..
Removing a set of gear will lesson this effect... I feel it makes it through sweeper way better this way..
07-22-2016, 03:15 PM
#1874
My rule of thumb is treads = ball diff. Slicks = gear diff if the traction is super high and consistently super high.
For me it seems like there is something in the difference of force required to get a gear vs ball diff moving, and how fast it seems to lock up or stop moving. Still don't quite have my head wrapped around the physics of it all so its more of a theory ive been pondering about why ball works better in low traction and gear works better in high.
For me it seems like there is something in the difference of force required to get a gear vs ball diff moving, and how fast it seems to lock up or stop moving. Still don't quite have my head wrapped around the physics of it all so its more of a theory ive been pondering about why ball works better in low traction and gear works better in high.
07-22-2016, 06:22 PM
#1875
Anyone bending the rear ball stud mount?
I had my car on the track for the first time today taking some easy laps and doing some tuning, nothing crazy, no hard crashes, no bigger than average jumps. I noticed the LR wheel leaning in and found the left side of the ball stud mount bent up about an 1/8 of an inch.
No big deal....bought another one and swapped it out real quick, fifteen laps later the new one is bent too. Checked another guys car and his was bent, we were able to straighten them out.....looks like that mount is gonna need to be thicker.
Anyone else run into this yet?
I had my car on the track for the first time today taking some easy laps and doing some tuning, nothing crazy, no hard crashes, no bigger than average jumps. I noticed the LR wheel leaning in and found the left side of the ball stud mount bent up about an 1/8 of an inch.
No big deal....bought another one and swapped it out real quick, fifteen laps later the new one is bent too. Checked another guys car and his was bent, we were able to straighten them out.....looks like that mount is gonna need to be thicker.
Anyone else run into this yet?