asc9638

The +8 is 8mm longer than the original chassis

Next weekend I will be racing on an outdoor track and am hoping to get some set up advice. It is bumpy, big jumps, hard packed, dusty and can be very loose. When I've raced there before rear traction was the issue. I don't have a lot of time to test so suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

im also in the same problem.
my car is kinda new and still dont know how to tune it so im going for this setup:
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...dolid20130427/

I wouldn't run that setup. Low to medium to a pro may be better traction than many of us run on and their driving is way better.
I think this would be a good starting point and tune from there.
Front: black springs, 30 wt oil, 1.6 pistons, 2mm washer under ball stud, shock on inside position on tower and outside on arm.

Rear: unshaven u brace with 1mm washer, a hub, green springs, 27.5 wt oil, 1.6 pistons.

I would adjust the slipper so that the front tires come off the table about an inch, while bench testing, then tune on the track.

my track is a large outdoor bumpy loose mostly damp track ant it has many tight turns. so i need rear traction and lots of steering.

and my diff doesn't feels smooth and im after about 7 packs. (it didn't feel too smooth from the beginning...) so if i rebuild it i know i can flip the rings, but do need to buy new balls?

I have been running on a track I would describe this way all season and have been fighting it and fighting it. Here is where I was at this week and it worked MUCH better than anything else all season.

Front:
AVID Yellow (3.23lb similar to AE Green)
AVID 1.5+1.1 pistons
Losi 32.5 oil
-1 camber and 0 toe, inside on the camber with .060" washers and .060" for bump steer.

Rear:
AVID White (1.96lb similar to AE Green)
AVID 1.6+1.1 pistons
Losi 32.5 oil
-3 camber and 3.5 toe block. NO ANTI-SQUAT SHIMS. Shaved brace with 2mm shims and silver (taller) ball stud). A hubs.

Changes I made for this week that I could really feel were the anti-squat (this the caps) and running a shorty rather than a full pack with the ESC in the tray. Also do NOT run traction compound...Simple Green if anything. I find ProLine Tazers to work well in this track condition.

I had been running 2 deg anti-squat, full sized packs and traditional ESC on the left in the past and with the changes found the car to be WAY less loose coming out of corners and it would hook up much better when I got on the throttle.

Edit: I don't claim to be a great driver and I didn't win any of the races this week (it was a 4 race poker run) but I did get progressively better as the day went along and I got back into driving (hadn't run in a few weeks) and adjusted to a new track layout. Wound up 3rd in the final race if that matters.

2nd Edit: Another guy at the track made a couple of other suggestions that make a lot of sense but I couldn't change at the track. Stock plastic servo saver was one that made some sense. With the track being bumpy the car will react a bit slower but will track straighter (his claim). No carbon arms in the front...again run the stock stuff to absorb the extra bumps and ruts.

got back from the track last night at 1:30 am

My buggy was dialed! everyone was on slicks but I was the only one on green barcodes for the rear with aka closed cell. for the front I ran ss ion with 3/4 cut down open cell rear foam.

first round I ran hot bodies beams in pink and they were not very good but I qualified 2nd for the first round.

second round I put on the green barcode rears and I got tq by 3 seconds.

third round a marshall didn't see me for about 5 seconds but I was on a run to better my tq by about 5 seconds.

in the main it was a 3 car break away for about 2 laps then I started to check out. I was about 3 seconds up and second place was making ground.

he bobbled and I got some breathing room and stretched out my lead by another 2 seconds. the next lap my motor slid and I was out. second place popped a ball cup maybe 10 feet past where I stopped.

third place easily got the win with a minute to go.

my setup was:

front:
black springs
1.4 3 hole tapered pistons
32.5 weight associated oil
2mm under the ball stud
inside on tower
outside on arm

rear:
white springs
1.4 3 hole taper pistons
30 weight associated oil
2mm under ball stud on a shaved brace (it comes out to be unshaved with 2mm)
inside on tower
inside on arm
a tower on the hubs

Misc: esc on shelf, receiver in tray under the shelf, 5g in each triangle, upgrade vortex wing with it cut down to all but one line.

it was super easy to drive and very consistent every lap.

I got some video from a iphone of the main

Very close to what I ran this weekend, how many spacers in your shocks? I had 30w in rear with kit 1.6's, just wished it would of changed directions quicker. Also I had a shorty 1/2 pad back and 7gr in rear triangles.

I ran 3 in front and 2 rear.

U could try the c plates to rotate quicker. It really frees up the rear of the car

I took my new kit to the track today and I was impressed! Still needs some tweaks for my driving style but man x12 6.5 on ssx is really fast and smooth! I'm loving this buggy already

Thats what I hear, I need to buy them and a carbon u brace so I can shave it, I tryed the kit one on my stadium truck and broke it 1st time out so I cant say if it was any better. Have you tried 27 in the rear, was thinking of trying that next.

I shaved the plastic one and have been fine for 3 weeks with plenty of tumbles and getting hit by short course trucks.

I have not needed to use 27.5 weight yet

I race on a track similar to that I can sen you a link of my basic set up, which was fairly good lots of rear traction and really the questions you need to ask yourself first is do i need more rear traction or do i need less steering? and then if the answer is i need more steering and more traction then well you need both, but if the answer is i have my steering turned down and my rear end needs more traction then work on your front end first, and get that closer, to 90% steering rate and then if you still need more rear traction then add rear traction tires>shocks>battery placement> setup this is the basic way of saying it to me

Hi guys,

I bought a used B4 Factory kit (old one) for fun on the track (since there is no class) between runs with my 1:8 eBuggy which is my primary car. I can't brake with this car after the long straight without spinning completely every time- the shocks (with proper oil, green/brown springs) and diff were all rebuilt before the run. I then tried the car of my friend, which is a B4.1 and wow his car was amazing- so much fun to drive it made me estatic thinking my car hopefully be like that when its sorted out. Any ideas where the problem could be? I will open the transmission tomorrow, just wanted to check if any 2WD guru can see the solution instantly.

Also, I can't seem to setup the slipper properly- when using the method of holding the wheels and setting up for the front to raise 3 inches, my car doesn't raise at all even when the slipper is almost fully tight. Any ideas here aswell? I'm pretty experienced in 1:8 eBuggy and 1:10 TC but I must admit I am faced with some pretty novice situations and questions with 2WD buggy