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Old 10-09-2013 | 09:00 AM
  #10291  
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Originally Posted by Grasschopper
I'm running a Viper VTX10 ESC which is claimed to be 50g without wires I think. It's beefy. But yes shorty packs.



This is with closed cells all around. It is with the Triad which is light and an AL pinion but how much weight am I really saving with the AL pinion? A couple of grams maybe. Oh yea this one is with a Solar D770 which is pretty light...and the transponder isn't in the car...but again, that's only another 5g (just weighed the one from the mod car).

Ok so where do I add the weight? 10g in each corner of the car? Try to get the balance perfect? Slap it in the tray? And if the answer is slap it in the tray then what's the point of running shorties?
I am running the d770 also. When i add weight above the ballast and 7g in the triangles, its to calm the car down. I add it "under" the foam in the tray. I use the shelf. The point of the shorty is to lighten the car and you can always add weight back again to get it "right". And put it where you want. You are about 60 grams lighter than me, which is a lot. Considering you have weight added to the car and the centering kit. I also have the avid, but I didnt do alum topshaft, alum bones or alum pinion. Its very curious, make sure you actually have the ballast in, lol.
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Old 10-09-2013 | 09:10 AM
  #10292  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I am running the d770 also. When i add weight above the ballast and 7g in the triangles, its to calm the car down. I add it "under" the foam in the tray. I use the shelf. The point of the shorty is to lighten the car and you can always add weight back again to get it "right". And put it where you want. You are about 60 grams lighter than me, which is a lot. Considering you have weight added to the car and the centering kit. I also have the avid, but I didnt do alum topshaft, alum bones or alum pinion. Its very curious, make sure you actually have the ballast in, lol.
Why does everyone think it isn't in there? Look...there it is.

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Old 10-09-2013 | 09:18 AM
  #10293  
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maybe it hollow, lol. Silly question... but you made sure your wheels were not touching anything when you had it on the scale? I normally put lay a sc tire on my scale and then tare it and put the car on the tire so that half the tire in under the t-plate. I am sure you are doing it right, just spit ballin here.
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Old 10-09-2013 | 09:19 AM
  #10294  
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Originally Posted by Jstall7543
This is the kit I slapped together lol I mean meticulously built. Paint job came out pretty wild looking. The windows and stripes are flat-ish black painted on the out side I ran out of satin clear. Ready to thrash! Kinda ugly but stands out pretty good.



LookN real good ...

Nice work ...
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Old 10-09-2013 | 10:25 AM
  #10295  
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does it make sense that I need to add an additional 40g just to get to the minimum?[/quote] If your scale is as accurate as you say it is...yeah.
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Old 10-09-2013 | 10:52 AM
  #10296  
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My car was under weight when I switched to the center line car. Mainly because I pulled all the weight out of the car.

Here's what i am running:

Servo: XP DS1015
RX: M11x rx
Speed control: LRP Flow
motor: Reedy Mach 2
Battery: #602 4100 shorty pack Reedy

Using those with no weight added and running slicks, my car was just at 1460. I added 7g weights in each rear triangle, the ballast weight and a 14g in the front of the battery tray and the car weighed about 1504-1505.

Are you running any Aluminum parts in the drive train rather than steel?
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Old 10-09-2013 | 10:52 AM
  #10297  
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My car was under weight when I switched to the center line car. Mainly because I pulled all the weight out of the car.

Here's what i am running:

Servo: XP DS1015
RX: M11x rx
Speed control: LRP Flow
motor: Reedy Mach 2
Battery: #602 4100 shorty pack Reedy

Using those with no weight added and running slicks, my car was just at 1460. I added 7g weights in each rear triangle, the ballast weight and a 14g in the front of the battery tray and the car weighed about 1504-1505.

Are you running any Aluminum parts in the drive train rather than steel?
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Old 10-09-2013 | 11:08 AM
  #10298  
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Originally Posted by wallnutz684
My car was under weight when I switched to the center line car. Mainly because I pulled all the weight out of the car.

Here's what i am running:

Servo: XP DS1015
RX: M11x rx
Speed control: LRP Flow
motor: Reedy Mach 2
Battery: #602 4100 shorty pack Reedy

Using those with no weight added and running slicks, my car was just at 1460. I added 7g weights in each rear triangle, the ballast weight and a 14g in the front of the battery tray and the car weighed about 1504-1505.

Are you running any Aluminum parts in the drive train rather than steel?
The AVID centering kit does include an AL top shaft and I'm running the Triad slipper so that is lighter than even the V2 slipper, and there is the AL pinion (but I can't see that saving THAT much weight). Other than that no. I am running the Lunsford Ti shock mounts and several of the hinge pins are Ti as well. The body is 36g painted on this car (39g on the mod car). Exotek V2 hubs are supposed to be lighter than the FT hubs by 20% also on the car.
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Old 10-09-2013 | 11:43 AM
  #10299  
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are you running a plastic parts that come in aluminum from the kit? Like front hinge pin brace, servo mounts small things like that? each part's weight by itself may not seem like much but, when they are all added together, it can add up pretty quick.
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Old 10-09-2013 | 11:58 AM
  #10300  
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Originally Posted by wallnutz684
are you running a plastic parts that come in aluminum from the kit? Like front hinge pin brace, servo mounts small things like that? each part's weight by itself may not seem like much but, when they are all added together, it can add up pretty quick.
Nope. Alloy hinge pin brace in front and servo mounts. Only thing along those lines that I am running plastic is the shock mounts...I'm using the RTR plastic shock mounts with the Lunsford Ti shock mounts rather than the FT alloy shock mounts.
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Old 10-09-2013 | 12:12 PM
  #10301  
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lol, lets assume your scale is correct. If you like how it drives, leave it. Its it feels too twitchy, add some weight it calm it down. I cant imagine a light car would have felt good on that outdoor track you ran on.
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Old 10-09-2013 | 12:18 PM
  #10302  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
lol, lets assume your scale is correct. If you like how it drives, leave it. Its it feels too twitchy, add some weight it calm it down. I cant imagine a light car would have felt good on that outdoor track you ran on.
No it felt like I was ice skating until this week when I finally got rid of the anti squat shims and got some weight transferring to the back end. I was running the full size pack most of the summer...so it actually was better lighter but with proper weight transfer...go figure.

Headed indoors now though...just looking to get my cars squared away and to go into the indoor season with some actual knowledge of what I'm driving.
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Old 10-09-2013 | 12:58 PM
  #10303  
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I was wondering if they would do this. Car in rm or mm all in one kit.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...C42-Conversion
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Old 10-09-2013 | 01:04 PM
  #10304  
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I wish they would make a convertible car that incorporates the same chssis though like a tlr 22 or a rb6. It is easier to just switch the rear end about, than the entire car.
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Old 10-09-2013 | 01:07 PM
  #10305  
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How is the grip on the indoor track?
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