Then the rule is totally misunderstood because this car was challenged by industry insiders (team manager) at the ROAR nats.

Whatever...I don't race in any ROAR sanctioned events so it is a moot point for me personally.

Anyone used a Ko-Propo servo in this kit?
Im looking at the 30100 RSx for it

Just looked at the rule and 1/8 is the only exception. The HPI car is not "legal" according to the rules but like others have said, no one really sems to care anymore. The release specifically said they don't want cars designed around shorties. I don't think they saw shorties being embraced like they have been though, they can be had just as cheap as any other pack now.

I run as much expo as I need for given traction on a given day, it varies every battery. my sweet spot is usually around +85 on dx3r pro. But there are times I'll go as low as +50. To avoid the trigger sawing I typically run 5 to 10% drag brake. The radio settings are available to help you and if you learn to use what you have you will be much happier with the results. Some people buy good radios and never even explore all the options, easy adjustments comes with time and familiarity of your radio. My slowest motor is a 7.5. I like my rc's to have big stones lol.

This is the kit I slapped together lol I mean meticulously built. Paint job came out pretty wild looking. The windows and stripes are flat-ish black painted on the out side I ran out of satin clear. Ready to thrash! Kinda ugly but stands out pretty good.

Yes i have that servo in one of my 4.2 buggies, very smooth fast not a power hog, but not a neccessity unless you just want to pay 200.00 for a servo lol.

I love Futaba's BLS451. I run it in all of my 1/10 scale stuff, and it's about $100 cheaper.

I have this servo too and really like it... its fast, quiet and has plenty of torque

I've liked my Savox's i've used for awhile now. 1256 in 1/8 1258 in 1/10. They are power hungry but since switching to the Spektrum pro Rx I haven't had any glitch issues and didn't need a cap. Amain has/had them on sale for $50. I started using savox in heli's and airplanes so just stuck with them when I started racing.

Well I broke out the nickles. Shop scale said 49.997g for 10 nickels...postal scale said 50g. I'm saying my scales are spot on.

So I just weighed my 17.5 B4.2 and it's light...like way light. I'm at 1460g with the body. That's with the centering kit, an AVID shelf for the ESC and with the body this time. I have 7g weights in the rear triangle and the FT ballast, does it make sense that I need to add an additional 40g just to get to the minimum?

if you are running a shorty pack, then yes.

I have a shorty pack and a short rx, I had to add 20 grams to be at 1504G. this is without the avid centering or shelf, but I run a novak gtb2 so that is heavier than a tekin rs

Might need to make a new name now, I am 6's all around.

Um, I dunno, seems wrong to me. I am running 7g in the rear triangles, shorty, esc shelf, ballast, minimal wire and I am at 1520 with body and tires. That being said, my closed cell tires weight more than my open cell tires. But still 40 grams under with ballast and lead seems too light. I am running a LP servo also.

Good servo but VERY expensive, I use this and it is awesome, and a $71 not a bank account buster!
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ium-Gear-Servo

I'm running a Viper VTX10 ESC which is claimed to be 50g without wires I think. It's beefy. But yes shorty packs.

This is with closed cells all around. It is with the Triad which is light and an AL pinion but how much weight am I really saving with the AL pinion? A couple of grams maybe. Oh yea this one is with a Solar D770 which is pretty light...and the transponder isn't in the car...but again, that's only another 5g (just weighed the one from the mod car).

Ok so where do I add the weight? 10g in each corner of the car? Try to get the balance perfect? Slap it in the tray? And if the answer is slap it in the tray then what's the point of running shorties?

I dont know then, I would grab another scale and weigh it just for s&g's.

I teched a guy this weekend that was at 1499 on the nose full trim, so he went from a JC body to a proline body and came back at 1505. BUT i don't believe he runs the rear ballast weight either.

As far as where to add weight, I would add it in the side trays, exactly in the middle of the car, right against the battery tray. How to find this. Measure the car nose to tail, find the half mark, add the same amount of weight on each sid in the side trays right against the battery tray. UNLESS you already have more weight on one side than the other, then if that is the case, I would add accordingly to make the car as balanced left to right as possible.