Are there any rear arms that fit the B4.2 and are more durable? Maybe from the losi 22 or DEX210 V2? I already tried xray Xb4's and they don't fit without major modification. I wouldn't mind if the geometry is a bit different

You can try the Carbon or the Hard arms from AE.

Boil the stock plastic ones or use RPM if you tend to wreck hard.

i already tried the carbon arms, but they don't seem to be noticibly better. I destroyed 3 of them so far: 2 when i drove over the pipes which usually have nails sticking out and another one when i got caught by another buggy mid-flight and landed sideways in an odd angle. I'd say i'm neither a bad nor a perfect driver, but sometimes it just happens and our track design is not very forgiving. (furthermore i already broke a front arm because some idiot jumped directly in my car with his monstertruck when i was going down the straight at fullspeed. Fortunately, RPM now makes front arms for the B4, so that won't happen again)

what do you mean with "boiling"? I'm talking only about the rear arms, so RPM is not an option.

Boiling plastic allows for internal "stress relief". I first heard about this a couple years back. Our Mugen MBX6 would always destroy front arms--found out guys were boiling them--tried it and voila--much less failures!!
It definitely works--boil them for 8-10 minutes--remove from water and let them cool naturally.

so i just have to put them into boiling water for a few minutes and they're stronger? Is there a specific temperature where it works best?

that's why i like this forum so much, you can always learn about new tips and tricks.

Back when we used to run oval in cold indoor tracks, we would always boil our plastic parts. It makes the plastic a little more flexable so they do not break as easily, however it may increase rear grip on the buggy as well if you boil the rear arms.

Just as they said before,

Get the water boiling, toss in 6-8 min, remove and let cool down.

I have not done this in years but it does work.

Lol don't go to carbon if you want durability. I stick with the reg plastic up front, but i use the 44 rear arms.

I got the Carbon Avid motor centering kit and have a question. Per the "install tips" it says that the blue spacer "goes on the outside now" and to use a reamer to get the spacer to fit better. Does this mean the spacer goes into the carbon piece and no spacer is used inside the gearbox?

I've tried finding a pic or install video showing this, but with no luck. Hoping some on here that has installed one can help??

Thanks in advance.

I don't have the carbon version but I did install two of the AL version. No spacer is needed inside the tranny case, they incorporated it into the top shaft. That spacer goes on the outside before you put any of the slipper parts on.

Yeah. The topshaft is now thicker and no need to use the spacer inside the gear box.

As promised here is the pic if my fan on my b4.2 it already took one hit to the motor/wing/fan and It survied

I cant really tell by the angle but maybe if you rotated the fan more to the left and drilled a hole in the motor guard, maybe you could get a bolt with a nut to hold the top hole of the fan and make it way more secure. im not sure if thats possible but I would definitely try to see if that worked.

If your busting arms on a regular basis then you need to slow down until your driving gets better. Slower is always faster than crashing. I see people at the track that set their car up so it's fast as hell and then comes a corner crash, flip the car over nail it again corner crash repeat. Full throttle on a tiny double crash. If this is your driving style then maybe 1/10 buggy isn't for you. These cars are pretty delicate and require finesse so you won't find indestructible arms to purchase, good drivers rarely brake stock arms or anything else for that matter. Good luck!

Shhh......Your giving away all the secrets...lol