Make sure your diff is tight enough before you set your slipper. If your buddies b4 is amazing you should be checking his car over to see how its setup compares to yours.

if your running a 17.5 its harder to raise it 3 inches. I only shoot for 1 inch on my with a triad

If you have 100% brakes that could be the problem also. I run maybe 60 but I try not to use them

Im pretty close I think to what I want if I go to 27 in the rear and change from 1.6s to 1.4x3s what changes will it make. Im still learning what the 3 holes are like.

You will have more weight transfer to the rear so it will have more rear bite

one turn your steering down if you need more steering change tires till that works, 2 once you get the right amount of steering and still spinning out change rear tires 3 if that doesnt work start turning down your brake to where its controllable slide/turn, this is the basics

Sounds good, depending on tires sometimes had to much steering

Yeah you gotta have the right tires forsure

Just put in the centering kit and now the right front is 13.5g heavy and the right rear is 4.2 heavy. Before I weighed it I cleaned it real well and checked shock collars with calipers. Any ideas.

Not sure if it's been mentioned on here yet, but give the new TLR machined 1.6 pistons a try. Much tighter fit than the AE machined pistons both in the shock body and on the shock shaft. My car jumps like an RB6 with these suckers.

I run on a track like this. This weekend switched the car around back for indoor clay, so the notable changes are top of mind.

- 3.5 deg rear toe block
- Open pistons with 30 wt.
- Black Front spring, Green Rear spring
- One camber washer front, two rear
- Unshaved rear mount, A hub mount
- Full pack
- Battery FORWARD
- 2 deg camber front/rear

I find outdoors dusty I'm trying to take steering out of the car. The rear end is always unexpectedly coming around. I found rear toe to 3.5 helped stabilize a lot. Black springs and roll axis tipped rearward (compared to the kit setup of 2 washers front and 1 rear) seems to help. Also, battery forward seems to help with the corner exit over-steering.

My tire picks

Front: grooves
Rears:
- For packed with loose dirt: double dees or 3Ds
- For packed with more loose dirt: bow-ties
- For loose: Goosebumps or IFMAR Studs

Double dees are great if they are watering. Bow-ties pretty much work OK for all of the above. They also seem to wear more slowly than double dees.

does anybody make hubs that are black or silver?

can I de anodize the exotek hubs?

When running 17.5T is it still wise to use the rear ballast weight?

I have always used it and I run 17.5.

my car weights in at 1554g

ok I am pretty sure I do not have a +8 chassis. The stock b4.1 body part #9792 fits the chassis fine. How is the b4 battery strap too short? It is less than a MM too short. And thank you so much for the info that the +8 chassis is 8mm longer than a stock chassis that helped so much.