gearing help needed for a d3.5 17.5 ht i know not a good choice but its what i have for now
high grip carpet thaks for any help

I would like to thank all of the people that helped me with setup over the last week I found what I needed all I needed to do was move the front link to 2b from 1a and wow it now finishes the turn like I like ...thnx

I've been running 32/69 (triad) with good luck on a track around that size, clay though.
This is blinky of course, tems usually run 120-125* after 6 inutes ambient air temp aroud 65*

Sorry to ask again.. I've asked about a gear diff for b4.2. My son has a b4.1 rtr and the manual shows the same gear box part # as the b4.2. It's been mentioned to get the SC10 gear box which is a different part #. Shouldn't this be a drop in using the same gear box as a b4.2?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Differential


Sorry to ask again, but if this is not correct, someone please post the part #'s so those of us interested in trying a gear diff don't feel confused. As I see it now, all I need is the above and some diff oil.

Thanks!

Both of my kids cars started as rtr also, the gear diff works in the b4.2 also(same case) as i sometimes use a gear diff as a tuning option in my 4.2 . If you use the sc10 case you also have to use the sc10 t-plate as well.

I have a 4.2 and the Gear Diff Case and Ball Diff Case are indeed different. I cannot swap internals from one to the other and have each Tranny fully assembled. I run the Ball Diff exclusively but in the event I ever have any issues, I can install the Ball Diff in a couple of minutes and be ready to roll.

I'm replacing all the screws on my b4.2 to stainless steel, because I can't afford titianium and I don't think 100$ is worth a extra gram or so. I like the way the stainless steel looks other than just black

Unless you also like the way it bends don't use it in any of the shock mounting positions. I had made this mistake with a XXX-SCT and when I got my latest B4.2 the previous owner had put a SS kit on it and getting those (bent) screws out was a real pain. Personally I would use Ti or the stock black steel.

The b4.2 and SC10 use the same transmission case, #9826. The ball diff (from a b4.2) and the gear diff should swap back and forth all day long.

Below:
B4.2 case with ball diff
SC10 case with ball diff
SC10 rtr case with gear diff

Ball diff part #9853, gear diff part #9827

I use stainless all over my ride , looks great too ...
Just use steel on the shock mounts for extra strength .




Toxic

17.5 motors weight less so use all the team ballast weight for more rotation in sharp corners .

Mod motors are heavier and some use less weight on the trans for improved traction ...

yeah, the SS on the shocks will bend. If you want something shiny on the shock towers, get the lunsford TI standoffs.

I did a rcscrewz stainless metric kit on my SC10 and didn't really like it. The threads are different which can cause some issues on the motor plate and can make it hard for them to grab in some plastic that were using the standard screws before. Also can't reuse any of the nuts as they must be threaded for the same kit. I would also have issues with the screw heads stripping out.

It's probably not a as big of a problem with a SAE kit, just something to watch out for. Really wish AE would swap over to all metrics like with the SC104x4, but I get that it's a tough transition when just making updates vs. a truly new kit.

I am sure the next "new" buggy from AE will be metric. They are made in Taiwan/china so I am sure it would be easier to go metric.

I run these on both my B4.2s and they are great.

Someone please HELP!!! I'm in desperate need of some more setup help. My buggy seemed to be working pretty well but I now switched from a 17.5 to a 7.5 motor. The car is not handling well and I was pretty frustrated today trying to drive/tune it. Part of the issue is the fact that I'm getting used to he power but even once I got comfortable, it handled like $hit. The rear end is very loose especially when exiting corners. It's very hard not to spin out. I am running 0 anti squat, moved the rear hubs all the way forward and I moved the rear camber link to the 3rd outermost hole on the hub. The track is med-high bite but can get dusty at times. I'm running the correct tires as well as a full size batt pack.