|
Did they actually change the rear shock tower? I was just looking at the manual and it shows 9572 which seems to be the old p/n? I dremeled my tower used no shims on the top mounts and 1mm on the bottom and I can clear with A hubs. It does look like AE is also releasing a/b carbon plates (9917).
|
yes, the tower will be changed. Same part numbers because it is a running change. We have no idea when you will start seeing them in LHS's
|
I will be testing the top mount esc on Thursday and will let you guys know how it went. For most this mod is FREE and worth a try. The tray is very easy to fabricate and just requires a dremel. Cav's was dialed @ the Reedy race in 2wd. If he mounted his esc on the roof of his car and won I would probably try that too. haha. The one thing I love about the B4 is that there is always something new to try or new product releases and it keeps excitement in the driver to go out and play.
|
Originally Posted by ksarantakos
(Post 11744045)
I hear a lot of different theories about shifting weight forward and whether steering increases or decreases. Over at Tune with Camber Links thread, Fred Swain is making the case that moving weight BACK increases steering as it changes the roll stiffness, http://www.rctech.net/forum/11647311-post1112.html
Maybe the ESC over the battery shifts weight back increasing steering? Or the slightly higher center of gravity adds more roll? Personally I like the look of the esc in front of shock tower, was it not possible to keep the battery in the same position as you had it before? I'd be interested in seeing what just the esc mounting position does with everything else the same. -kyri |
To me more weight over the front of the car had always given more steering than moving weight to the back. Think the brass kick plate for the 22 and the trend of battery foward setups for the nitro cars.
|
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 11743666)
I run a 4100 shorty, ballast, 1/4 in each triangle abd 1/2 next to the receiver for 1530 grams. even without the 14g next to the receiver and the ballast, I would be over 1500. It must be in the electronics. I even have a LP servo.
Here is a quick sketch I made one night after corner weighing my son's b4.1 and my sc10. http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...RWEIGHTS-1.jpg |
So I read earlier that some people were expecting their kits today???
I was trying to be patient...but now I'm like a kid on xmas morning eve lolol |
Originally Posted by micrors4guy
(Post 11744201)
To me more weight over the front of the car had always given more steering than moving weight to the back. Think the brass kick plate for the 22 and the trend of battery foward setups for the nitro cars.
It depends on where you're looking for steering. That brass shim on the Losi would plant that nose off power. Lots of turn in, and lots of exit steering, but that isn't the easiest car to make rotate. Most people complaned that the car was slow out of a corner because you couldn't put the power down. I've found that relying more on weight transfer, than just weight placement, my car is faster and more predictible (without losing out on forward bite). |
hey, what this really comes down to is.........
Does it look cool or not? Because that's pretty much all that matters. :D |
Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
(Post 11744273)
It depends on where you're looking for steering. That brass shim on the Losi would plant that nose off power. Lots of turn in, and lots of exit steering, but that isn't the easiest car to make rotate. Most people complaned that the car was slow out of a corner because you couldn't put the power down.
I've found that relying more on weight transfer, than just weight placement, my car is faster and more predictible (without losing out on forward bite). I tend to like oversteer in with a slight push comming out. |
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 11743666)
I run a 4100 shorty, ballast, 1/4 in each triangle abd 1/2 next to the receiver for 1530 grams. even without the 14g next to the receiver and the ballast, I would be over 1500. It must be in the electronics. I even have a LP servo.
|
yeah, but not 30 grams. maybe my viper esc is a fat pig, lol.
|
Symptoms of ball diff going bad?
What are the symptoms of a ball diff needing a rebuild?
Had an issue last time out when my buggy wouldn't run. The motor had power, but, it was acting like the tranny had a neutral position with a slight grinding sound. After about 15 seconds, the buggy was off and running again without issues for the rest of the battery ~10 more minutes. Haven't tried anything since. |
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 11745516)
maybe my viper esc is a fat pig, lol.
tekin= 2oz (56.6g) WITH wires http://www.teamtekin.com/rs.html viper = 56g WITHOUT wires. http://www.liverc.com/news/special_f...%22_VTX10_ESC/ I'm not exactly sure where all of the weight comes from...maybe its in the batteries? Im using nano-tech 4200 shorty. Hobbyking says 190g. |
For me the symptoms of needing to tear down and re lube/inspect the diff are:
Has it been run 3 weekends? Yes - inspect/relube/rebuild if needed. |
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:42 PM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.