First time posting on here, but thought I would throw you some insight to the best of my knowledge. Removing or adding washers changes the geometry of the suspension as it travels. Think of a rectangle. If one side stays the same height, but you shorten or lengthen the other side as you move it up and down it will change the amount of camber at the wheel per specific point of travel. If you are pushing going into a corner off power it is normally a front end issue. If you remove a washer it will give you more off power steering adding will give you less. Now if you are having issues on exit on power then I usually tend to adjust the rear of the car. If you are loose coming out of the corner removing a washer or grinding the plate will give you more side bite and help stabilize the car. If you are tight and pushing out of the corner then try adding a washer. Now this is all taking into account that the rest of the car is set up properly. Ride heights can make a substantial difference or the final small tune that you might need. Of course there is always a reaction for you action. I have found this true in tuning my real dirt mod right down to my b4. Hope that helps out a little. If I misworded anything please anyone feel free to correct me. Thanks and happy racing.

Been running the panther clay bobcats and rattlers to try out instead of suburbs or bar codes. Third days of running and tires are bald in the rear. Ran suburbs and bar codes and they are 6+ days and look good. Track is dry compared to a month ago. I sauced them once when I first got them. Can a dry track eat up clay? Thinking of trying different compound. Any thoughts.

How did you find the bobcats/rattlers? I just bought a set of each to try and they feel really soft as others have mentioned compared to other clay compound tires :nod:

I called that the day he switched to AKA. Kyosho is still not done signing their 2013 drivers. They said they had 4 big names to anounce

so has anyone tryed a swaybar on there buggys?

Can't find the answer, What is different from a B4.1 WC to the B4.2 ?I have the big bore shocks, so what else do I need to upgrade?
Thanks Joe

I think it would be a mistake to switch cats before the worlds. my 2 cents.

The four big contracts that joe pillars announced was for Orion, not Kyosho.

Ive made this car my next purchase for a new R/C car.
Buggy has gotten popular around here so I know I'll have a class to run
if I get one. Im gonna start with an 8.5, some are running 7.5 but I feel
that's just too much motor. 8.5 is plenty...
We have one of these in stock at my local hobby shop.

I've seen this answered somewhere but like you, unable to find it. Hope someone will post it again or a link to the answer. This time I'll "save" that information. :batman:

man is it me, or do these new Ion fronts look sick....

Since your just banging your head against the wall and can't seem to find this answer. Ill give you a hint that usually works pretty well.

Check the Team Associated website under the B4.2 product page. I'm sure you'll find what your looking for!!!!

I want to say its:

Big Bore Shocks,
12mm aluminum hex (f/r)
Aluminum steering bellcrank
VTS slipper

and thats about it really

upgraded shock towers.

Anyway, question. I really hate how the receiver antenna get fed through the chassis. It seems to have some sharp edges that nice the antenna. I was thinking of slotting the antena mount like the 22 to eliminate the goofy current feeding. My only concern is that the antenna might not be snug anymore and will move around or fall out. I know you can bypass the hole and wrap the antenna or ever just coil it up, but i was wondering if anyone has tried to slot it.

wireless receivers...... that's how I roll :D

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Micro-Receiver

That's the one I use with my 4PL ;)