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-   -   Tekno SCT410 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/676777-tekno-sct410-thread.html)

jones8352 04-12-2013 04:08 PM


Originally Posted by isaakh (Post 12039773)
well i now have the lightened chassis, lightened outdrives and lightened drive shaft so i am sure the weight is compinsated for. the tracks i run on are red dirt and a sandy type dirt so i am conatantly cleaning. it might run hot in mid-summer but i only have temps around 130 for a 6 minute race with the pro4 4600 and rx8, so for now i will just run it and see what it does.

Another good bang for the buck is get the aluminum steering posts if you're into going light weight. I'm looking at per gram price.

Slotmachine 04-12-2013 04:24 PM


Originally Posted by rifraf (Post 12039234)
Finished build pics..nevermind the premounts,I used them to set my trims..lol.:)

CRAP FORGOT TO REMOVE OLD STICKERS!!!!!!!

I noticed in your picture, your steering arm coming from the servo is not at the same angle as the steering rack like it says to do in the build instructions. I hope that does not effect your handling any............
Paul Rush
HWNA

sonnyn 04-12-2013 05:26 PM

shock caps
 
I have been running emulsion style shocks, and wanted to try the standard setup with the bladders. would using the shocks caps that have been drilled for emulsion setup be a problem or should i get another set of caps?

08supermoto 04-12-2013 06:52 PM


Originally Posted by sonnyn (Post 12040096)
I have been running emulsion style shocks, and wanted to try the standard setup with the bladders. would using the shocks caps that have been drilled for emulsion setup be a problem or should i get another set of caps?

No you should be ok. The blatters should prevent any blow by.
However I just recently purchased the aluminum caps as a upgrade.... Only to find out that you (cannot) run them with emulsion style shocks...
They come with too many holes to use as emulsion. You will have to seal one or all the holes to do so.

rifraf 04-12-2013 06:58 PM


Originally Posted by Slotmachine (Post 12039895)
I noticed in your picture, your steering arm coming from the servo is not at the same angle as the steering rack like it says to do in the build instructions. I hope that does not effect your handling any............
Paul Rush
HWNA

yessir,I went back to step O-6,7,8 of the manual and saw what I did.there should have been 1mm gap on the steering link between the rod ends,mine measures at 3mm,So that would make the servo arm NOT parallel with the connecting arm at netural servo position.However,the way I currently have it trims straight at 0 steering trim down the street and I have full steering right to left..I even got my right to left turnned down to 85% an it still has full R/F steering...

Thanks for seeing that :),I will know what I need to do if the way I have it gives me a problem...

maizer 04-12-2013 07:11 PM


Originally Posted by sonnyn (Post 12036854)
I have been looking at different setups, and have noticed that the # of washers on top of the outside steering ball link differs. I see where +/- washers on the bottom makes a change in the bump steer, but I'm not understanding the importance of the washers on top. Would someone be so kind to explain this? Thanks, Sonny

I think it was intended to just be a place to sore the washers so if you wanted to add more on the bottom there they are when you need them. they have no other use on top one on top is good to stop a link from popping off but that's about it as far as I can figure.

warrenwrench 04-12-2013 07:24 PM


Originally Posted by Stealth_RT (Post 12039105)
Figured out how to post my Lake Erie Shootout setup sheet. Lower resolution, but it should all be readable.

Thanks for the setup sheet Eric. ;)

maizer 04-12-2013 07:32 PM


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 12039466)
that is exactly what I was wanting to know. That is very excellent. Thank you, I am going to order a tekin to try just because of that.

Yeah, the tekno. My wife says I can maybe get one for fathers day...June...meh. Have the axle issues run their course and perma fixed? I really dont want to go off the grid with after market parts etc. Is there a set of tekno springs that that are stiff enough to remove the rear end slap causing the nose dive?

I have run four races on four different tracks from small to big with big and small jumps with my Tekno. I have 0 issue with the way the stock truck jumps and no chassis slap. If you flat land the truck from high up a lot you may need move droop thicker oil and stiffer springs I would say the highest flat landing I have done is 4 feet I try to downside all my jumps when I can. As far as nose dive its just throttle control if you are new it may be hard for you to do I have been racing off road for a very long time and it is EZ for me to drive this truck fast and I have 0 complaints its tuff high quality and fast.

rcmiket 04-12-2013 07:33 PM


Originally Posted by rifraf (Post 12040344)
yessir,I went back to step O-6,7,8 of the manual and saw what I did.there should have been 1mm gap on the steering link between the rod ends,mine measures at 3mm,So that would make the servo arm NOT parallel with the connecting arm at netural servo position.However,the way I currently have it trims straight at 0 steering trim down the street and I have full steering right to left..I even got my right to left turnned down to 85% an it still has full R/F steering...

Thanks for seeing that :),I will know what I need to do if the way I have it gives me a problem...

You really should get that link correct. It changes the steering rate of travel going in one direction versus the other. The side that it is "steering" to will have a linear rate until it goes past a certain travel point, then it will slow down. The other side will be slow at first, then as the horn goes past the center line of the servo, it will speed up. Could make for some wonky handling traits.
I hope I explained that clearly enough.?

scoopdaloop 04-12-2013 07:41 PM

Anyone tried the Panther Switch tires? Want to try something besides Wishbones and Barcodes

ryanpatrickgore 04-12-2013 07:45 PM

I have a new box sitting on my coffee table. ;) can't wait to start building.!

Wildcat1971 04-12-2013 07:47 PM

dont tell Wild Cherry

ryanpatrickgore 04-12-2013 08:03 PM

Lol

Looking at the smc packs which would be better? 6500 or the 7200mah? With a viper vtx10r and a reedy 550 4.5.
Longest main I ever run is 8 mins.

Yaxx 04-12-2013 08:27 PM

I noticed most people here use kyosho or Losi springs...
Is there any reason why not to use Tekno springs? They use them just beacaus ethey have those in partbox? I am asking because I don't have any extra springs so I will have to buy anyways and would like to stick with Tekno... But can't find any report on stiffer Tekno springs! I run on outdoor, loose, bumpy and with couple high jumps track...

scoopdaloop 04-12-2013 09:02 PM


Originally Posted by Yaxx (Post 12040608)
I noticed most people here use kyosho or Losi springs...
Is there any reason why not to use Tekno springs? They use them just beacaus ethey have those in partbox? I am asking because I don't have any extra springs so I will have to buy anyways and would like to stick with Tekno... But can't find any report on stiffer Tekno springs! I run on outdoor, loose, bumpy and with couple high jumps track...

I'm running Pink fronts and green rear springs.. both one step stiffer than stock. I don't mind the Tekno springs.. I have kyosho springs also but I haven't tried them yet. I like my setup right now with the CSI blue pistons and serpent comb bladders..


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