It's the new cartridge and it's built right. If u have the same one just take off the limiters and see how far up the pistons come actually the nut on top. Ones not as bad I forget which one. I will be rebuilding them later tonight. But I'm currently running one washer on front and rear. Wanted to run none like I was but with one on I didn't notice a difference so guess it doesn't matter amyway. Was just wondering Teknos take on this really. Guess u have to be pretty dam good to notice a difference in the truck with or without one O-ring on the shaft. I know most guys on looser tracks don't run em so that's why I wanted to exclude them.

Ok so I took my front shocks apart dumped the oil and took off the one O-ring I had on outside of shaft. While holding the bladder on I pushed the shaft all the way in and it pushes the bladder off the shock body by about as much as the ring is thick. Just a very little bit less, so actually with one ring on the shaft the nut on top the piston is still pushing up on the bladder a little bit. I doubt very much that little bit would do anything but what about without any limiters on the shaft? Any thoughts? When Tekno says you can run with none does that mean with no bladders emulsion style? Will be checking the rears in a little bit.

I run a tekno 4wd sct with rx8 gen2 and tekin 4300 kv 16tooth pinion and stock spur . 7200 mah 2s packs . On my local big outdoor loose sandy low traction track I run 10 min no problem . I went out of town today to a small indoor high bite tacky clay track and couldn't make a 5 minute qualifier I assume it was shutting off for high temp the esc and motor was reading 150-160 after shut down it was dieing consistently around 4 minutes . I dropped to a 14tooth pinion for the 8 minute main and it made it around 7 minutes so better . Any suggestions on gearing or anyone having similar temp issues ?

Usually on a high traction track especially Clay the temps go up on the electrics . You can try to turn the punch control down or drive easier .

Punch was set at 60% and my throttle travel on tx was 75% so everything was down low there's no reason I should have to putt around the track to make 5 minutes that's ridiculous

Yea right not at those settings. You could have a bad bearing somewhere or just something binding in the drivetrain .

What gearing do most people use in those conditions ? All the drivetrain is very smooth and free

The last time i drove on a clay indoor track i used a 13t with a 4600kv and a clip on heat sink which i use most of the time anyways. Make sure you dont have anything drag brake on the esc and no timing.

One thing to remember with bladder shocks is that the oil will be displaced by the shock shaft which pushes the bladder upwards. So most likely the shock shaft/nut rarely if ever will hit the bladder. And if it does, the bladder is already on its way upwards so the shaft/nut isn't putting a lot of pressure on it.
Also, and I think someone mentioned this earlier, be sure to fully tighten the rod end onto the end of the shaft. If it is not tightened fully there will be additional shaft in the body at full compression and at some point the bladder will not be displaced any further by the oil, and the nut could then hit the bladder more easily.

Hello to all TEKNO SCT410 member i am new this thread just got Tekno SCT410.Anyway, what parts of this truck most common broken so i can order some spare parts since our local rc store they didn't sell tekno sct410 stuff any input kindly appreciated!

For adjusting uptravel you can set it that way. Push down rear and lift one tire. It should lift just some. At least I like it that way. At first I hadn't screwed the bottom eyelet tight and the uptravel was too much. The tires also hit the body more. On highbite I sometimes use even three limiters in rear.

It just hit me that I am using Kyosho pistons so the nut might get in contact with the bladder. The stock pistons don't because of the concave.

For the most part, they don't break. You only need Alum wheel hexes, alum servo horn. Recently some have had issues with the axle stubs.

trying to decide which way to go for my daughters truck.

Right now, I have the option of throwing the EB48 chassis on there and maybe changing her diff to match mine at 7-7-3 versus 2K in the rear its set to now, however, I am going to 3K since I have the BCE chassis to install and will have the 1.5+ hingepin brace too for more toe if needed.

since her last time driving it the setup worked well for traction, etc. curious if I should just leave it go, though this is a much bigger track.

or, will the EB48 chassis offer more flex than the stock chassis?

Hoese37, thank you for your reply.
QUOTE=Hoese37;13253670]For the most part, they don't break. You only need Alum wheel hexes, alum servo horn. Recently some have had issues with the axle stubs.[/QUOTE]

I would run the EB48 chassis. Ive tried the stock 410, eb48 and BCE chassis. The truck just got better with the EB48 and BCE chassis and the BCE chassis worked better than the EB48.. I believe the weight loss and flex is what made it better. I only ran the front brace on the EB48 and ran Front and rear on the BCE.