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you mean put them in the outdrives at the ends of each center drive shaft? I thought the noise was mainly from the pinion and spur? Either way ill try the oring method but man my truck just gets louder and louder and sounds like somethings wrong and ive maintained and replaced religiously since i got it a year ago. It seemed to get better when i installed the straight cut gears.
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
(Post 13166249)
Try removing the center and rear chassis brace off . Or just the outside upper hole on the rear arms . Do add some lead weights like 2 1/4 oz ones on the rear end.
Reduce the dual rate to 92% on your radio i think thats what makes the rear end swing around on exit turns with to much dual rate. regarding removing the rear chassis brace and diff cases breaking... you can leave the rear chassis brace on and just leave the screw(get a longer one for best results) connecting brace to rear case only half screwed in... this way you still get the chassis flex but less likely to have broken diff case |
Originally Posted by Graham11
(Post 13167417)
you mean put them in the outdrives at the ends of each center drive shaft? I thought the noise was mainly from the pinion and spur? Either way ill try the oring method but man my truck just gets louder and louder and sounds like somethings wrong and ive maintained and replaced religiously since i got it a year ago. It seemed to get better when i installed the straight cut gears.
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Originally Posted by Hoese37
(Post 13167502)
Yeah I understand that. Mine was super loud too until I did the oring trick. There's a guy at the track whose truck sounded like an electric chainsaw. Had him do this too and he was amazed.
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Originally Posted by Graham11
(Post 13167431)
Yea I already have all that done, Ive had the car for over a year so Im pretty familiar with it and definitely not adding more weight to it, the truck has plenty of weight so wouldn't advise that as a tuning option but if it works for you then go for it.
regarding removing the rear chassis brace and diff cases breaking... you can leave the rear chassis brace on and just leave the screw(get a longer one for best results) connecting brace to rear case only half screwed in... this way you still get the chassis flex but less likely to have broken diff case The reason why I added lead weights to the rear was because when you remove the center and rear brace the rear end is much lighter than the front end. It seem to come down the fishtailg out of the corners a little bit . I haven't had the rear diff case crack without the rear brace . I may put the rear brace on without the center brace and see how it is . |
My truck drives awesome ! I must have gotten a good one .... I feel bad seeing what all these people are going through to get theirs to drive good. I dont normally get lucky , but I must have this time...
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Originally Posted by Hoese37
(Post 13166826)
It's the same as the white gear. Put the black orings in the drive shift cups. That will really quiet the driveline down.
do have more info on this? |
Originally Posted by Randidly
(Post 13167787)
what black orings
do have more info on this? |
Originally Posted by wittyname
(Post 13167768)
My truck drives awesome ! I must have gotten a good one .... I feel bad seeing what all these people are going through to get theirs to drive good. I dont normally get lucky , but I must have this time...
Might try boiling the Borrego wheels to get a little flex out of them... |
gear mesh is touchy. if you open up your mesh a little more than you think would be good it makes it smooth sounding. i know you are probably good with setting the mesh but the sct410 seems to like a little wider mesh than im used to.
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Originally Posted by Randidly
(Post 13167787)
what black orings
do have more info on this?
Originally Posted by Mizchief
(Post 13168042)
I'm guessing it's the ones used under the ESC tray and as shock down travel limiters.
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
(Post 13166642)
Well my used FTW body is trashed now after racing yesterday the body holes are ripped and cause the body post with the body clip go under. In the 2nd main race the body shifted and i ended up running with no body lol.
I ordered a high flow JC body. |
Originally Posted by Graham11
(Post 13167417)
you mean put them in the outdrives at the ends of each center drive shaft? I thought the noise was mainly from the pinion and spur? Either way ill try the oring method but man my truck just gets louder and louder and sounds like somethings wrong and ive maintained and replaced religiously since i got it a year ago. It seemed to get better when i installed the straight cut gears.
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Originally Posted by robbieg
(Post 13168162)
gear mesh is touchy. if you open up your mesh a little more than you think would be good it makes it smooth sounding. i know you are probably good with setting the mesh but the sct410 seems to like a little wider mesh than im used to.
Yea i noticed that also . It may have something to do with the motor alignment or the teeth size on the spur. |
Originally Posted by rvinvents
(Post 13168802)
that used to happen to me and it is frustrating when the rest of the body is good and it wont stay on cuz the clips tore thru I switched to the proline mounts and that part outlast the rest of the body now, i am never switching back
Yea i dont know if it has something to do with the thickest of some bodys around the body post area that causes that. But its two bodys which were used even with shoe gooe around that area the body clips would rip into them. All day i was running the truck with three clips with one side flipping up in the air . The last main i was in it just got worst and ran without a body. So il need to use them body saver spacers on the new body ! |
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