I don't get this nosediving problem. Is it happening to experienced racers? I only say that because I have never experienced this and I've run it all the way down to 23mm ride heights, but I hear it enough it has to be legit. Now I'm running different springs but the kid I know who wins all the time is on stock springs and has no problems either. I'm guessing it has to be in the setup where people are doing something to create this problem. I'll be happy to look up my spring rates if it helps anyone but I don't know them off the top of my head.

Yea what springs are u running I'm using black front pink rear stock pistons

Ok I'm on durango blacks in rear and whites up front which converts to a 2.97lb rear and a 3.92lb front with kyosho 1.2x8 pistons ae 30 front 35 rear

Looking at teknos chart it looks like it would equate to a red rear and in between pink and green up front if you trust everybody's spring charts

Those with nose-diving issues...
 

Be sure to check your suspension components with your shocks off and sway bars disconnected.

I bet the rear suspension arms are way to tight and are binding. Run a reamer through them if needed and don't reassemble the car until all for arms drop easily on their own weight - without the weight of shocks or sway bars!

I can run most any spring/oil/piston combination and I don't get nose-dive issues at all. I've not modified my chassis in any way. The weight bias on this kit is exactly as it should be.

Should work pretty well. I like the Pro4HD 4300 for it's extra torque, but it's not technically ROAR legal, but most tracks don't care and run 4x4 SCT as an open class.

My suspension is totally free. I spend way more time wrenching and cleaning the car than driving (maybe that is my issue). I have tried Fioroni pistons, 8x1.2, various oils and springs and my truck nose dives badly. I have a FTW body that I hope will help. Currently-
Ride height 27/28
oils-35/30 with Fioroni built standard per instructions
pink/green springs
2 shock o-rings on each shock shaft
close to stock with other settings- camber toe etc.
max droop
Maybe I really have to change my driving style. I have been trying but it is difficult. I just don't have this issue with any of my previous cars or my EB48. It is strange and certainly an legit issue for some people.

Remove the orings and try it again.
Guessing green rear / pink front... try a green front to match the green rear if simply removing the orings doesn't get it. Maybe someone at your track has green fronts you can throw on for a couple minutes to try?? HB grey or Durango white-grey are very close as alternatives to green.

There's a lot of different stuff going on with the EB, aerodynamics of the wing, weight of the wing in the back.

I went through the nose dive thing with my Losi to the bitter end. I see signs of it in my tekno as well , but not as bad. It only seems to be an issue on jumps that are almost wide open , 35 mph jumps. Same with my Losi . It never happens anywhere else but on the outdoor 1/8 track I run at . The only thing that really fixed it for me , and made it go away for good ( And I had a lot of help from guys in black TLR shirts ) was going up in kv on my motor so I could get more wheel speed in the air. A fellow racer on the same track I had problems with the Losi on , at the time he ran a tekno. He had the same problems , and went through all the same changes I made . Higher Kv ended up fixing his problems too. On slower jumps , or smaller tracks , I have never had an issue. I run a 4300 hd now , but I still have my 4700 just in case I ever need to go there again. Just my personal experience ...

In my case , it seems like the truck was not accelerating enough to offset the deceleration caused by the jump face and the added aero drag of being airborne and as it slowed in the air , it would nose down.

what body were you using previous? I'm at yellow fr with green rear at the moment, same piston and oil set up. See if the yellow front helps. Gives the truck a lil more pop off jumps and transfers weight a lil more easily.

I had to ream the arms to get free suspension when building. As I understood the Fiorionis should be built either emulsion or vented bladder as the 2-stage has own rebound. You have obviously the same problem with stock pistons?
Don't run max droop but start with recommended. Rear shock bottom eyelets should be screwed in so that the bottom ball still moves freely. Try out also more front droop. I would not remove the orings. Push rear of the chassis down and look how much the rear tires lift. Generally you want it to lift just a little bit, also the tires will hit the body more.

Do you have drag brake at zero?

You may want to run your truck higher in the front than the rear. The way you have it now makes the nose down thing worse.

Front lower than rear
• Increases weight transfer to front off-power
• Decreases rear traction
• May cause car to nosedive off jumps

+100
Didn't notice the front being lower than the rear. That will not help him in his fight against the nose dive.

Same here. It's on the wide open jumps at our 1/8th outdoor track that's been causing the nose down. At the 1/10th tracks I been at with the truck, never a problem.

The fleet of Losi's at our track have the same problem. My Durango never had a problem, but it's quite different from the Tekno/Losi.

The nosedive issue was discussed a lot like 8 months ago but I am not aware of any experienced racers still experiencing it. I think theres a lot of "new" SCT410 owners because of the popularity of the truck and they are just getting the chance to drive their trucks outside for the first time and will need to learn how to tune and drive the SCT410... my nosedive was from chassis slap but I thought tekno changed the stock springs to help fix this?

Anyway, it was definitely an issue at one point but I think its just coming back because the outdoor season is starting