R/C Tech Forums - Tekno SCT410 Thread

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Quote:

Originally Posted by justpoet (Post 13111650)

I'm not Tekno, but I do qa elsewhere. For those of you with the stub axles breaking, I'd love to see the answers to these questions.

1) where is it breaking? Right at the thread line?
2) what hexes are you using (and how many shims behind it)?
3) what wheels are you using?
4) do you usually have serration marks on the wheel from the nut holding it on?
5) how do you tighten the nut down? Finger tool, driver, huge wrench and a hammer tight?

I ask because I think there may be a couple contributing factors going on here. I was looking at my wheels a couple nights ago as I was dealing with worn out tires. I noticed that the wheels I normally use (losi scte stock) look normal with a little serration mark. Yet, some of the others I ran a couple times had a DEEP serration mark, which would mean far more stress on the axle (the worst we're the aka rims I had). Some that may not have any mark on them could also put a more abrupt snapping force into the axle if they're not perfectly tight.

I generally run losi scte wheels and the +1 hexes in front and the normal al hexes in back with usually 1 shim per hex to make it fit tight but not bind. I'll be trying the avid wheels out this weekend to see how those line up, but the f11 wheels I had seemed fine too. I tighten down with a normal nut driver, and often need a cross wrench to get them off after I've run them, because the stock Tekno nuts grip really well with the serrations...at least for me. I haven't broken a stub axle since an early known issue set, despite plenty of on power and sideways landings on super high bite (think concrete) and more recently indoor clay with concrete berms.

1) where is it breaking? Right at the thread line?
yes at thread line
2) what hexes are you using (and how many shims behind it)?
aluminum hexes stock width, one shim that came with hexes
3) what wheels are you using?
DE borrego
4) do you usually have serration marks on the wheel from the nut holding it on?
yes
5) how do you tighten the nut down? Finger tool, driver, huge wrench and a hammer tight?
I always snug the wheel then with the serrations you can feel a sort of click as you tighten them past snug I go 1 to 2 clicks (usually one unless it didn't feel tight enough with one)

i was wondering if the DE wheels had something to do with it because they are so rigid unlike the F-11 wheels that flex much more absorbing more of the impact?
I broke the original 4 with kit and 3 more after that then tekno sent me 4 replacements about 3 weeks ago and i have only broke 1 of those, stuff breaks and i am totally fine with it, the only reason I brought up the topic was to see if I could do something different to stop it, not to bash tekno, they are great and its probably a user created problem as it doesn't happen to everyone. (still way better than a losi as far as repairs go)

Rv, do you have video of your track, bonus if you're driving? I find it hard to imagine a layout or something beyond a support pole in the straight snapping that many.

Quote:

Originally Posted by justpoet (Post 13112530)

Rv, do you have video of your track, bonus if you're driving? I find it hard to imagine a layout or something beyond a support pole in the straight snapping that many.

my point exactly, the track isn't even very gnarly, especially the current layout it has to be something else? I am going tomorrow I will try and get some video

Anyone know if your suppose to seal the edges of the Tekno CF Towers?

Quote:

Originally Posted by wreckya (Post 13114043)

Anyone know if your suppose to seal the edges of the Tekno CF Towers?

Not required, but a good idea. Don't need to worry about it too much because theres no exposed edges.

Anyone have a good setup for a large indoor clay track with med to high traction? Or where I can find posted setups. Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Badcompny44 (Post 13114219)

Anyone have a good setup for a large indoor clay track with med to high traction? Or where I can find posted setups. Thanks.

Great setups here: http://www.teknorc.com/eb48-setup-sheets/

If its high bite, check out Pres Ilogs Hobbyplex setup.

Also Petit rc has some great user submitted setups as well. http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tekno/S...knoSCT410.html

Thanks!! New to 4x4 sc and want a good base setup to learn driving on. Also wanted to say This thread is awesome quick answers and very helpful nice people. Must be a tekno thing. Thanks again hoese37

Quote:

Originally Posted by Badcompny44 (Post 13114219)

Anyone have a good setup for a large indoor clay track with med to high traction? Or where I can find posted setups. Thanks.

I agree with Hoese37. Pres Ilog's Hobbyplex setup is a great place to start. Just note that he is using front shocks and shock towers in the rear on his setup, so you'll probably need to adjust a couple things. My latest setup is this one with a few changes and it works well on a medium bite indoor clay track for me.

Another good setup is Josh Bertrand's setup (also on the Tekno site). Josh attacks the turns pretty aggressively. If that's your style, his setup may suit you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoese37 (Post 13114077)

Not required, but a good idea. Don't need to worry about it too much because theres no exposed edges.

What could be used to seal them. One of my front Tekno towers has a small spot that's starting to come apart.

CA glue on a q-tip. Use sparingly, you don't need much and don't want it to drip down the face of the carbon

Quote:

Originally Posted by jones8352 (Post 13114394)

What could be used to seal them. One of my front Tekno towers has a small spot that's starting to come apart.

Tire glue is most common. For me the thinner the better. Put a drop on the width of the tower, and gently blow it around the entire tower. Then wipe the excess away with a paper towel.

Thanks guys I'll give the CA glue a try, don't want my pretty towers to fall apart. LOL

for the q-tip method, usually strip the cotton off of the tip before using it, not sure if everyone does that but have seen guys who don't ended up with fuzzy carbon lol.

Had a great run going last night with a good tq run in round 1 that held up...but I broke it in round 2 and couldn't get it back going for the main.

Not the truck though, the rx8 fan went out (again) and I didn't have a replacement, nor did the shop, so thermals the esc in about 2.5 minutes. Anybody remember which fan I can put in its place that moves air as good or better and doesn't just die in a month and a half of running?