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Originally Posted by natious
(Post 13116808)
Hey guys, i've just coming back into the RC world aftering toying with Nitro's about 10 years ago >_<.
Anyway to the point, I've decided to get back into it and have some fun so I just pulled the trigger on the sct410 + futaba 4PLS. I havn't decided on a motor + esc combo yet but I do have my eye on the tekin rx8 gen2 + 1900 - 2650 range motors. My local track you can pretty much run whatever you want upto 4S so I'm not limited by the smaller motors. I also have a large loose dirt area to bash on with 200 meter flats. Can someone help me out with a combination? We have quite a large straight out the back, I would like to be hitting 60mph. I'm thinking, rx8 gen2 + 2250 2X/44 + 4S TLDR: rx8 gen2 + 2250 2X pinion / 44 spur + 4S waaaay too much motor.:eek: If your going the e-buggy motor route a 1900 is more than enough |
Originally Posted by natious
(Post 13116808)
Hey guys, i've just coming back into the RC world aftering toying with Nitro's about 10 years ago >_<.
Anyway to the point, I've decided to get back into it and have some fun so I just pulled the trigger on the sct410 + futaba 4PLS. I havn't decided on a motor + esc combo yet but I do have my eye on the tekin rx8 gen2 + 1900 - 2650 range motors. My local track you can pretty much run whatever you want upto 4S so I'm not limited by the smaller motors. I also have a large loose dirt area to bash on with 200 meter flats. Can someone help me out with a combination? We have quite a large straight out the back, I would like to be hitting 60mph. I'm thinking, rx8 gen2 + 2250 2X/44 + 4S TLDR: rx8 gen2 + 2250 2X pinion / 44 spur + 4S I would recommend going with the Pro 4 HD 4300 from Tekin. Gear it 17 or 18/44. This motor temps fine and performs quite well. If you are not racing any ROAR races, this would be the route to go. Other wise, take a look at the Pro 4 4600 and gear it 15 or 16/44. Both of these are designed to run on 2s. The battery straps on the truck aren't even designed to hold a 4S Lipo. :nod: |
Originally Posted by T. Herwig
(Post 13117129)
Those motors will both be overkill in this truck, especially the 2250kv.
I would recommend going with the Pro 4 HD 4300 from Tekin. Gear it 17 or 18/44. This motor temps fine and performs quite well. If you are not racing any ROAR races, this would be the route to go. Other wise, take a look at the Pro 4 4600 and gear it 15 or 16/44. Both of these are designed to run on 2s. The battery straps on the truck aren't even designed to hold a 4S Lipo. :nod: |
Originally Posted by T. Herwig
(Post 13117129)
Those motors will both be overkill in this truck, especially the 2250kv.
I would recommend going with the Pro 4 HD 4300 from Tekin. Gear it 17 or 18/44. This motor temps fine and performs quite well. If you are not racing any ROAR races, this would be the route to go. Other wise, take a look at the Pro 4 4600 and gear it 15 or 16/44. Both of these are designed to run on 2s. The battery straps on the truck aren't even designed to hold a 4S Lipo. :nod: |
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
(Post 13115602)
I believe you have this backwards?
Typically with 4 pole motors going to a larger pinion (up to a point) will lower motor temps and increase ESC temps whereas going to a smaller pinion will do the opposite. The theory, as I understand it, is that these motors will deliver their max no matter the RPM. So if you have a small pinion, it is very easy for the motor to give it's "max", and it won't "ask" or "pull" all that much from the ESC, making the ESC's job easier, thus running cooler. The motor though, will likely be running at an average high RPM, and constant high RPM's heat up these motors. If you have a larger pinion, the motor will still deliver it's "max", but it requires a lot more from the ESC to do so, making the ESC's job harder, thus running hotter. The motor will now (most likely) being running at an average low RPM, low RPM's equal a cooler running motor. This is all very basic and only reflects my understanding of what's going on, I'm by no means an expert in these electronic systems. ;) Hot Motor + Cool ESC = Undergeared Cool Motor + Hot ESC = Overgeared Hot Motor + Hot ESC = WAY Overgeared |
BCE
I just recieved my BCE chassis. Did any body figure out and advantages or disadvanages not using the spacers? I would like to lower the difs 1mm but does it affect the droop or any thing like that?
Done, 1hr 22mins. BCE makes a nice chassis, every thing fit real nice! |
Originally Posted by MattDub
(Post 13117454)
If you wanted to go 4s the Pro4 HD 1950 is a great option.
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If you want to run 4s in the sct, the pro4 hd is probably the best way to do it. It will give you even more initial torque and a more efficient run than 2s setups, but many tracks won't let you run it (sounds like your local one will though, so you may not care about that).
Larger motors like you initially mentioned will fit fine, but they will add to the top heavy nature of short courses and make them harder to drive and corner. Full ebuggy motor/battery will also prevent you from using common setups as the weight will be quite different. |
Originally Posted by jones8352
(Post 13117667)
I just recieved my BCE chassis. Did any body figure out and advantages or disadvanages not using the spacers? I would like to lower the difs 1mm but does it affect the droop or any thing like that?
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I'm changing from 10x1.2 pistons to 8x1.3 today. What is a good starting point for shock oil front and rear?
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What are you currently running?
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Currently have emulsion build, 37.5f 32.5r but it was a little heavy in rear.. Got green springs all around
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With a setup like that, Id personally drop 5w per end, so 32.5F 27.5R.
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For the guys that use the Proline Body mounts, what size drill did you use to screw in those long set screws? I'm going to place my order now, I hate trying to add body clips on the rear of the truck. The posts seem to sit near the bed frame.
I hope one of the features Tekno adds to the V2 is make the body fit better on their trucks. They sit too high and doesn't look right for some weird reason. Maybe an improved front bumper design too? |
Originally Posted by uclabruins89
(Post 13117998)
I'm changing from 10x1.2 pistons to 8x1.3 today. What is a good starting point for shock oil front and rear?
Originally Posted by uclabruins89
(Post 13118044)
Currently have emulsion build, 37.5f 32.5r but it was a little heavy in rear.. Got green springs all around
Originally Posted by Hoese37
(Post 13118077)
With a setup like that, Id personally drop 5w per end, so 32.5F 27.5R.
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